Drill Holes to Lighten Bar?

[wheelman]

You guys have got it all wrong. The way you do this is to collect up about 600 aluminum bar tip rivets drill an appropriate size hole for each one and smash em all in there.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Here is a diffrent take on the subject.If you are walking so far over rough terrain and you need to go as efficently as possible look at it this way.If you do drill holes in your bar and get all the way in to wherever you have to be ,then the holes cause a problem after you get there and you cannot do the job because of it,,,Then you will have to walk all the way back out to try again another day. Just a thought. I'll bet someone like Fiskars sells a very nice hand saw for just such work.Of coures if your cutting anyting over 8" in Diam,,, well thats gonna get old fast too. For the cost of a bar especialy a bar you have already been using it wont hurt to try i guess.Jut run her a couple of hours around home first incase it does not work out.

 

[branchbuzzer]

Get one of these

For me, that is the simplest and quickest way to make the job easier. A little extra weight is no big deal other than the small extra effort when the load is properly distributed on a pack with belt and chest straps. If I was carrying a good sized saw every day the pack would be well worth the $200, but I've rigged up Molly packs to do essentially the same thing to carry small 14" saws up 1000'+. The main things the pack does is put the weight near the hips, keep it from swinging around, and protect from pressure points via the board.

Also, since I don't think it's been mentioned yet, proper pacing and resting is important. No laws against sitting on a log for a couple minutes occasionally. You usually don't lose any time in the end if not end up going quicker.

 

[MtnHermit]

I am just curious as to why some of the posts on here assume that the OP is out of shape and that is part of his problem. He just might be young at 175lbs and lean and mean.

Nailed the weight, but not close to young anymore.

Instead of a back up bar for your saw I like the ideal of a sharp hand saw. Then you have both in case something happens to your chain saw you still have a back up that can be used.

I'm looking at a 4 layer stack of deadfall, all 12-18" Dia if memory serves me. I had to climb 8' high on that stack to continue on the trail, couldn't find a go-around. I do have a sharp 14" handsaw which is my preferred trail tool but its best at 6" or smaller. A 24-30" handsaw, while light, would likely cost more that my 435 with a spare B&C. I looked on Baileys, they don't sell handsaws that long. About 10 years ago met a 20 something forest ranger with a 30" handsaw, I was impressed both by the logs he'd cut and his attitude, so no question, what you suggest is possible.

I've already tried the 435 in my backpack, easy fit, likely I can strap the tent outside and the sleeping bag has its own compartment.

See #54 for a test I have planned with the backpack but no tent. I tested the 2 week old small saw in big wood, #31, so the saw is up to the task.

 

[MtnHermit]

Here are a couple of threads about making a Lighter Bar ..... or at least thats what its suppose to be.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/195819.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/116839.htm

Thanks for the links.

Stihl makes the best lightweight bar going from the aspect of weight and strength.

Will a Stihl bar fit a small mount Husky and line up with the oil hole?

 

[slowp]

Does the USFS know about your trail project? :handcuffs:

I believe we asked this before and you just skedaddled off the thread.

 

[Trx250r180]

Thanks for the links.


Will a Stihl bar fit a small mount Husky and line up with the oil hole?

it will with the bar adaptor bailys sells

 

[MtnHermit]

Does the USFS know about your trail project? :handcuffs:

Asked and Answered

But I will say while cutting #31 an apparent forest ranger (no smoky hat or badge, but FS truck at the TH) appeared across the creek, he said hello and asked a few questions then went on about his tasks.

 

[ndlawrence]

What about getting a husqvarna techlite bar? on a 346xp. that would be light and plenty stout

 

[MtnHermit]

What about getting a husqvarna techlite bar? on a 346xp. that would be light and plenty stout

Since the 346 Powerhead weighs the same as the 435 w/ B&C, I'd be going in the wrong direction. The 435 has ample power for a 16" B&C.

Husqvarna 346XP NE

Thanks for the thought.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

You have convinced me to try a 435 with a tail as it's still fairly lightweight and with a bit more power than my 435T. If you really want a light weight trail rig and don't mind a top handle, the 435T with a 14" bar will be a pound and a half less than your current rig. I'm only looking to go with a rear handle as I find my left hand moving to move brush while the chain is still coasting down. I keep telling myself not to, but I really don't want to take chances when I'm miles from the closest road.

 

[MtnHermit]

What I Learned

From the pics below you can see that one ~1¼" Dia hole resulted in a 0.8 oz weight savings. Since I could get a max of 8 such holes, the total savings would be in the neighborhood of 6-7 oz.

Some random observations, thoughts, comments:

• The steel was easy to drill and cut with a hacksaw, not hardened.
• The laminated bar protested loudly when drilled, the layers must vibrate somehow.
• I Bent a hacksaw blade it go around the circle to cut out the webs of the small holes
• A half-round file easily removed the remaining roughness
• I found a HSS 1¼" hole saw on ebay for $10 that would have probably drilled the remaining holes
• A 1¼" reduced shank drill would have been $20-30
• The ~6 oz weight savings was not enough to continue, to little gain
• When I carried the saw with accessories inside my backpack, weight was not an issue
• For me, using a chainsaw is much more tiring than carrying one
• The weight of the saw + B&C while cutting was never the issue, simply an attempt to reduce carry weight
• I made a template in CorelDraw so I could align all the holes with the spot welds
• The one hole did not appear to compromise the bar stiffness

New 16" Bar:

Bar with one hole:

Hopefully all this answers future questions. It did mine.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

 

[cuttingintime]

I once read that there are no such thing as a "dumb question". For me expermation gives me vision. Good luck.

 

[rupedoggy]

I once read that there are no such thing as a "dumb question". For me expermation gives me vision. Good luck.

I read that about questions too. I thought it was a good quote until I read some of the questions on this forum!

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I think most of those guys are girls. Next time you're up there just walk up behind one of them, lift their tail, and check out the plumbing...or lack thereof. Let us know.

:msp_razz: Lol, thats awesome.

Goddammit Bob! Spit beer all over the computer reading that and now my Wife's pissed......

I did the same thing, only chinese takeout, not beer. Funniest thing I've heard (or read) all day.

OP: make sure you let them see you coming. 9 out of 10 cows won't kick you if they KNOW you are behind them. Unless they are just mean.

 

[zogger]

I lost track in this thread so forgive me if this has been tossed out. How about trying to adapt an old bowbar to a modern lightweight saw?

 

[In The Weeds]

TITANIUM BABY!!! :cool2:

 

[computeruser]

Get a chainsaw backpack. That should make the weight easier to manage. Holes in bars will load up with chips and end up sticking the bar, as McCulloch (and others) learned way back when they were still making their Model 47 and things of that sort with "lightened" bars.

 

[Unionvillecountryboy]

What I Learned

From the pics below you can see that one ~1¼" Dia hole resulted in a 0.8 oz weight savings. Since I could get a max of 8 such holes, the total savings would be in the neighborhood of 6-7 oz.

Some random observations, thoughts, comments:

• The steel was easy to drill and cut with a hacksaw, not hardened.
• The laminated bar protested loudly when drilled, the layers must vibrate somehow.
• I Bent a hacksaw blade it go around the circle to cut out the webs of the small holes
• A half-round file easily removed the remaining roughness
• I found a HSS 1¼" hole saw on ebay for $10 that would have probably drilled the remaining holes
• A 1¼" reduced shank drill would have been $20-30
• The ~6 oz weight savings was not enough to continue, to little gain
• When I carried the saw with accessories inside my backpack, weight was not an issue
• For me, using a chainsaw is much more tiring than carrying one
• The weight of the saw + B&C while cutting was never the issue, simply an attempt to reduce carry weight
• I made a template in CorelDraw so I could align all the holes with the spot welds
• The one hole did not appear to compromise the bar stiffness

New 16" Bar:

Bar with one hole:

Hopefully all this answers future questions. It did mine.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Did you at least test it?

 

[Pioneer]

Yup, use a backpack. Much more pleasant to hike through the woods with your hands free, safer as well. You may need them to help you navigate obstacles or slap bugs because you forgot the bug juice.