Drill Holes to Lighten Bar?

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By the gods NO!, HARD stuff bars are, to drill them you must first anneal it then drill what you want, then retemper it to get it back to usable. Oregon also makes some nice light bars in lots of size's

Cary
I have used an end mill to cut holes/slots in a bar without any need to annealing the bar rails on the one I did was only hard to just below the bottom of the chain slot + it was NON laminated I filled the holes with epoxy mix I must add it was then fitted to shelf queen limited use saw. Having said that some of the now vintage saws had a number of various sized holes but for the OP's need not recommended Smaller saw/bar Or a better method get someone else to carry it :drinkingcoffee:
 
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QUOTE="Guido Salvage, post: 3574192, member: 49315"]The problem is that the pack cost twice as much as his saw. Looks like a nice rig, however.[/QUOTE]

If using one of them chainsaw carriers, be careful and don't fall down and let the bar hit the back of your head. (and dull the chain and/or bend the bar)
I've carried chainsaws long distances easier by making a bar/chain cover out of old fire hoses (the fire hoses have a soft rubber inside and a cloth outside) so as the saw can be carried on shoulder. (for the wider bars that the hose would not slip onto I cut two hoses and then spliced the hoses together for a wider but snug fit)
 
I've come to that conclusion too.


Considered that first, but on Baileys I could only find 16" .325 bars, same as I have. I want a second B&C in case I bind in the many cuts, could abandon the B&C or cut it out with the spare.

To offer a suggestion get into 3/8 lp with a 7 tooth nose. I like the Stihl 61PMM3 chain. This is the 0.043 drive link class. Even if you have to get into a rim drive and 3/8 7 tooth sprocket, I suspect there is a spur in 3/8lp though. Stihl even has light weight bars for that. The chain is significantly lighter. They will work on the small Husqvarna saws with a little of work. I just can not see the point (of the more expensive light Stihl 3005 mount bars) as the height top to bottom of this class of bar is small. For the 0.325 chain, the NK stuff has a 10 tooth nose hence less bar top to bottom than "regular"

If getting stuck and using another bar and chain is considered I suspect you have an outboard clutch that is much less desirable for getting loose. I usually am able to get the bar out and just leave the chain in upon getting stuck. I only carry a spare chain. If it looks like potential stuck situation make notches in from all sides then cut the square section remaining.

The comment about installing lots of aluminum rivets was appreciated. I would favor the lots of little hole approach but the narrow bars are flexible enough to start with so for this application probably not the way to go.
 
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