I just rebuilt my echo carb as it would not idle. My kit included a fuel vent valve and I can not for the life of me figure out where that is on my machine. There is a tube that runs backward past the upper right carb into the main housing but not sure how to access that. Thanks
echo cs 3000 chainsaw fuel vent valve
- Thread starter g58
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Again thanks Ray for the ipl and service manual.
I still can't get my echo to idle. It starts right up on the second pull and as long as I am actively reving the engine it runs but let go and it dies. I can rev it for a minute+ so it is warm but just dies. If I just hold the throttle down say at 3/4 open it also dies. I have to be constantly pulling the finger throttle lever on an off to keep it going. Here are the things I have done.
Rebuilt the carb with all new parts except the needle valve sent me in the kit was too long so had to reuse the old one. The needle does seem to move fine up and down with no sticking. I didn't soak the carb but sprayed all with carb cleaner and then air. I did not remove the welch plug and clean the idle port so wondering if that is a problem. I did not take off those little red things on the hi low needles and did not remove the needles.
Replaced fuel lines, purge pump and line, fuel filter, air filter.
Took off the reed valve/insulator and cleaned it and it seems to work. It appears differently then the one in the service manual. As an aside. when I first took off my carb there was a small piece of debris keeping the reed valve open and I removed that and really thought that was the problem but that didn't pan out.
Could not get my fuel check valve replaced. I have the type B. I took off the starter housing and found the hose but pulled and cleaned and pulled and the hose would not come out of the assembly. I can see deep down into the crevice and see the end with the check valve but it seems too big to get through the opening. When I was reving the engine I did turn the saw on its side and opened the fuel tank to let any excess pressure building out and it didn't seem to help the saw to keep running.
So my suspicion is that it is not getting enough gas from either the faulty needle valve, junk in my idle port or around the hi low needles. Less likely the fuel check valve causing problems
Before I tear apart things again any thoughts?
I still can't get my echo to idle. It starts right up on the second pull and as long as I am actively reving the engine it runs but let go and it dies. I can rev it for a minute+ so it is warm but just dies. If I just hold the throttle down say at 3/4 open it also dies. I have to be constantly pulling the finger throttle lever on an off to keep it going. Here are the things I have done.
Rebuilt the carb with all new parts except the needle valve sent me in the kit was too long so had to reuse the old one. The needle does seem to move fine up and down with no sticking. I didn't soak the carb but sprayed all with carb cleaner and then air. I did not remove the welch plug and clean the idle port so wondering if that is a problem. I did not take off those little red things on the hi low needles and did not remove the needles.
Replaced fuel lines, purge pump and line, fuel filter, air filter.
Took off the reed valve/insulator and cleaned it and it seems to work. It appears differently then the one in the service manual. As an aside. when I first took off my carb there was a small piece of debris keeping the reed valve open and I removed that and really thought that was the problem but that didn't pan out.
Could not get my fuel check valve replaced. I have the type B. I took off the starter housing and found the hose but pulled and cleaned and pulled and the hose would not come out of the assembly. I can see deep down into the crevice and see the end with the check valve but it seems too big to get through the opening. When I was reving the engine I did turn the saw on its side and opened the fuel tank to let any excess pressure building out and it didn't seem to help the saw to keep running.
So my suspicion is that it is not getting enough gas from either the faulty needle valve, junk in my idle port or around the hi low needles. Less likely the fuel check valve causing problems
Before I tear apart things again any thoughts?
Germansteel
ArboristSite Lurker
As far as the tank vent goes... on my saw you remove the fuel lines to the carb and primer (label if necessary!) then remove the screws inside the rear antivibe bushings and the tank swings away from the rest of the saw revealing the end of the vent tube thats way in there just like yours.
Germansteel
ArboristSite Lurker
It may be a good idea to extend that tube 2" / or replace with longer tube so that you can fish it out with a stick and swap that vent out in the field, when the problem comes back. Kinda lame that we have to do this, all of the rest of the maintenance stuff on my saw is easy access except this. These vents were simpler in the past and probably less problematic. I think they gum up with oil from the fuel and lock up when the gasses in the tank expand, then don't want to go the other way when fuel is sucked out of the tank.
Oiler not working so well so decided to clean that and while at it get to my fuel vent valve. I found a thread (http://chainsawsculptors.com/faq/bar_oil/bar_oil.htm) shows how you have to take off the flywheel to get that bugger out. I don't have the echo flywheel puller. Tried the tap method discussed in the URL with a punch but it is on tight. I would prefer to use a puller. Can anyone recommend one that will work? I found the official part number but can't find it anywhere to buy and figure there must be a generic/cheaper version out there?
Ok, got the fly wheel off by making a little aluminum jig that attaches to the fly wheel. I rapped some rope around that, let it dangle, then gave a good rap with a hammer to the shaft and it popped off. The fuel vent valve was stuck inside but got it out and replaced it. Have gone through about 6 tanks of gas and it runs like new. thanks for help from all.
