efco saws

[mtngun]

Mine is coming with a 3/8 full chisel pro chain; I know they cut better & faster, but a newbie like me, used to low kickback chains, I'm wondering if such an option is available for the 165?

You can order a loop of low kickback from Baileys. I don't have anything nice to say about low kickback chain, but then, I wear chaps and chainsaw boots.

I was trolling the 'bay last night and there were still a few new Club Cadets and John Deeres being offered. Prices weren't as good as they used to be but still attractive.

 

[Rich Audiano]

Amazon is still selling the Cubs at $299. Take a few weeks to show up,but worth the wait. Good stuff.

 

[ticat928]

Amazon is still selling the Cubs at $299. Take a few weeks to show up,but worth the wait. Good stuff.

Bought one, thanks for the tip

 

[hydrojackmac]

I have an Efco 165 that has probably cut 25 cords or more. The saw won't keep up with Husky and Stihl saws of the same cc's. One thing though, the saw always starts and runs well, and it's not too heavy.

 

[Brushwacker]

I have an Efco 165 that has probably cut 25 cords or more. The saw won't keep up with Husky and Stihl saws of the same cc's. One thing though, the saw always starts and runs well, and it's not too heavy.

I have to agree my 165 doesn't feel as powerful as the Makita 6401 or my 034 although I have never run them side by side. Mine is muffler modded but I don't know that it is all the way broke in yet or not. It is quite a bit lighter then the 6401 and closer to the 034 in weight. Nice power to weight ratio.
I saw 1 new, newly listed on ebay a few hours ago for $310 or best offer. That tempts me but I'll leave it alone for now as long as I can control myself.

 

[mtngun]

When Efco replaced the CS62 with the 165, they "detuned" it for reasons that I don't understand. The CS62 was their best saw and I don't understand what's up with the 165.

The only obvious difference between the two saws, other than the spiffy new plastic covers, is a 1mm longer stroke on the 165, which should help torque. However, they lowered the rpm spec down to 12,000 rpm or some such BS. The official horsepower rating was also lowered -- I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think it lost 0.2 or 0.3 HP.

I can't think of any logical reason the 165 shouldn't be allowed to rev to 13,000- 13,500 like the CS62, and make as much or more power than the CS62, unless they did something stupid to the porting.

 

[Brushwacker]

When Efco replaced the CS62 with the 165, they "detuned" it for reasons that I don't understand. The CS62 was their best saw and I don't understand what's up with the 165.

The only obvious difference between the two saws, other than the spiffy new plastic covers, is a 1mm longer stroke on the 165, which should help torque. However, they lowered the rpm spec down to 12,000 rpm or some such BS. The official horsepower rating was also lowered -- I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think it lost 0.2 or 0.3 HP.

I can't think of any logical reason the 165 shouldn't be allowed to rev to 13,000- 13,500 like the CS62, and make as much or more power than the CS62, unless they did something stupid to the porting.

When I got mine the muffler opening looked small and it ran lean and hot even with the limiter all out. It runs much better with the extra exhaust port and limiter moved back to where it adjusts richer and no longer hot. I kinda wish I run it more alongside other saws to better discribe it, but it doesn't feel like a slow weakling with a 24" hardmose bar,I can tell you that.

 

[Machold]

I finally found the courage to attempt to "tune" this saw. Ran it a few minutes and I can't believe how good it is; cuts wood like butter.

But I can't figure out how to get to the limiter caps. I took the airfilter cover off, but I can't get the carb cover off because the start button and the throttle prevent any movement of the cover. Or I can't figure out how to get to the carb. If I start removing the "red" parts, then I'll be in trouble, I think.

Any quick tips? Thanks.

Easy to find. The plastic limiter caps only allow about 1/2 turn adjustment which wasn't enough on mine. I had to remove the carb and to remove the limiter caps, used a drywall screw screwed into the plastic limiter cap to pull it off, then I backed out the adjustment screw about 1/2 turn to allow it to run richer and reinstalled the limiter caps. Now its turned in most of the way to the bottom of the limiter cap and I can't adjust it very lean, but have near 1/2 turn to richen it. I didn't need to go out as far as I did, but its working fine where it is.
The muffler mod was simple to . There was a hole under a plate on the front of the muffler which I enlarged slightly and replaced the plate with a slightly reduced MCCulloch muffler shroud I had , then I put a strip of aluminum tape underneath to keep the exhaust off the front part of the crankcase. Looks like the tape may of not been needed but I rather it be there just in case to deflect heat.

 

[8433jeff]

You have a very good saw. If its still under warranty, and you are worried about that, then the limiter caps stay on. Efco dealers should be able to tune it the way you want, and I know one quite well. It might require two trips; get it adjusted the way you want it, and after break in, get it adjusted so it will do what it can do. Those caps can be replaced with new ones when you are finished w/ the adjustments. At dealer school last week they showed us the competition for the MS170-180 and the Huskavarnarud 135?(MT3500) Supposed to be a entry level saw for homeowners. God help us if they start to make all saws like that. :jawdrop:Stay away, very far away.

 

[Machold]

Thanks for the reply. There are no dealers in the province of Ontario; in fact, the only Canadian outlet I can find is the distributor in Quebec. This will be a DIY job.

 

[8433jeff]

Then the previous poster about drywall screws is right on. I would advise holding back (High side richer) until the saw is broken in. Then set it where you think is best. 12,000 RPM's for now-13,200 13,500 later on. The saws are set with load after a short break in at the factory, but fuel is different, altitude etc. ALL Euro saws will be crossing the pond with them stupid caps soon, IMHO.

 

[Machold]

Thanks; it certainly has the limiter caps. But getting to them is my problem. I don't know how to take the housing off that covers the screw heafs. I take your point about breaking in. Thanks.

 

[Stihl Crazy]

Thanks for the reply. There are no dealers in the province of Ontario; in fact, the only Canadian outlet I can find is the distributor in Quebec. This will be a DIY job.

I am an Efco dealer in Nova Scotia. Bought a 165 early in the new year. Liked it enough to become a dealer. The 152 is an eye opener. Got to video it against my 346. The 152 feels stronger. The 165 took awhile to break in. Not a match for a 365 Husky but will outcut a 361 for less money and better warranty.

 

[Stihl Crazy]

The 152 is not a clam shell design. It is however similar to some older Dolmar models, where the crankcase is separate from the oil tank. Been running both 152 and 165 for logging/pulp work. No drop in production compared to other brands.

 

[wooddog]

Got to video it against my 346. The 152 feels stronger. The 165 took awhile to break in. Not a match for a 365 Husky but will outcut a 361 for less money and better warranty.

Is the 346 50cc or 46cc version and is the 152 in the 50cc range too? Could you share the video Sir .

 

[Stihl Crazy]

I have a 46 cc 346, and a 50cc 026 to try it against. The 152 should have the advantage as it is 51.7cc. It is the best starting saw I have had since the 115si Dolmar. I will post video when I make it.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

The 152 is not a clam shell design. It is however similar to some older Dolmar models, where the crankcase is separate from the oil tank.

Is this the same as the JD-CS52? I have one, and have a problem with the bar studs, which are part of the oil tank. If I can replace just the oil tank assembly, I'm a happy camper.


Anybody got a link to an exploded diagram?

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Found it.

http://www.efcopower.com/allegati/152.pdf


Nope. Oil tank is part of the crankcase.



The perils of plastic saws!

 

[Brushwacker]

I finally found the courage to attempt to "tune" this saw. Ran it a few minutes and I can't believe how good it is; cuts wood like butter.

But I can't figure out how to get to the limiter caps. I took the airfilter cover off, but I can't get the carb cover off because the start button and the throttle prevent any movement of the cover. Or I can't figure out how to get to the carb. If I start removing the "red" parts, then I'll be in trouble, I think.

Any quick tips? Thanks.

Its been a while and I don't rememember all I had to do to remove the carb to get at the limiter caps but I don't remember any specific problems.

 

[Stihl Crazy]

Found it.

http://www.efcopower.com/allegati/152.pdf


Nope. Oil tank is part of the crankcase.



The perils of plastic saws!

I always thought that the crankshaft went in the crankcase, not the oil tank.

Oil tank is not part of crankcase on the 152. The crankcase is in the first diagram part # 9

Oil tank is on page 5 part # 31.

#9 bolts into #31 but is not # 31.