Excess chain oil?

[Snap]

Is it normal for a large accumulation of chain oil under the the sprocket/bar end cover when spinning the saw up out of wood?
It seems that the chain is plenty wet but the saw grooves not much and everything under the cover soaked as well as dripping down under the sprocket/clutch.
Saw is a Husky 335. Oiler adjustment is just as always since new, as recommended in the manual.

 

[Franny K]

That has a 3 position adjuster doesn't it, at least the 338 does. I have a feeling as the nose of the bar gets bigger more of the oil comes off at the sprocket as it is a smaller radius. Make sure there is no debris between the bar and the steel plate against the main body of the saw and the slot lines up with the hole in the bar. I have gone to the extent of putting some stick epoxy in the slot of the bar just to the rear of the oil input spot and scraping it out with the chain (as it cures) to make my version of lubridam. Not much else to do that I can see, the oil level goes down. I gave up trying to get oil to sling off "medium" sized hard nose bar on one occasion with a completely different saw from what this thread is about.

 

[Snap]

Not a 3 position adjuster. It's an infinitely adjustable screw but adjusted just 1 screw out as spec'd.
The sheet metal chain guard plate is new as well as the bar, both clean. I tried a smear of threebond between them to make sure the oil stays in the slot behind the guard so no leak behind the plate.

I checked the oil slots/holes in the guard and new bar compared to the previous ones and all seem reasonably the same.

My bar has no "dam" at the rear (sprocket) end to prevent oil from flowing off the back near the sprocket, but I imagine the chain movement is intended to minimize that. Maybe your "dam" solution might help.

I also thought a moment about a smear of Hylomar between the bar and sheetmetal guard to further guide the oil to the bar hole, but that could be a mess after adjustments and might backfire.

Although the chain appears well oiled there doesn't seem to be much throw off the outer tip nor accumulated in the outer parts of the bar slot, top or bottom. The excess of oil is being thrown off the rear under the cover then dripping to the floor and it is soaked under the cover.

I've had this saw since '97 and this is a relatively new problem, but then again I never really ran it much out of a cut. It does have replacement (Husqvarna- China) bar and Oregon chain. Maybe something in the fit of the two is not like the original. Perhaps the chain guide tangs are not as tall as they might be in the bar slot.

 

[Snap]

Here's something interesting. The replacement Husqvarna bar seems to be a typical import (not Swedish) "close enough imitation.
The chain groove in the old one is a consistant depth thoughout its length.
The new one gets 50 thou deeper in the middle of the run.
Also on the new one there is a deeper "well" (oil resevoir??) in the groove at the oiler hole and the well pitches back to the sprocket. Because the groove is deeper to start and deeper yet due to the "well" the tabs on the bottom of the chain don't nearly reach a quarter of the way into the depth of where the oil goes in.
It's entirely possible that the oil is not getting raked down the bar because the chain is barely touching the oil if it's sitting in the bottom of the "well".
Looks like a bad design.

 

[Franny K]

By 2012 or 2013 the oil adjuster goes a full turn with three spots it likes to rest. The bar that comes with the saw comes in a wrapper that says made in China even though the box the saw comes in says made in Sweden. Is the bar you recently got of the type that has a separate oil hole as opposed to oiling through the unused adjuster hole. If a saw (334 to339 series) is designed for a separate oil hole the adjuster hole might provide an avenue for the oil to go through and escape. You could see if that is possible and plug the unused adjuster hole with epoxy or similar. I just don't run it long at all not cutting something The clutch has a habit of loosening itself if I try and get oil off the end of the bar too much. Maybe the temperature makes things different than what we are used to, the chain certainly changes direction more abruptly at the drive sprocket.

The slot levels out pretty much full of debris not sure how long it takes. Might not be too long at all but the chain probably doesn't contact the bar right away (top and bottom of tail) as can be seen with the wear pattern.

 

[Snap]

My bar has separate oil holes and although printed "Husqvarna" but is an Asian import. The internal design is definitely different than the one it is replacing which is damaged.
On the old one, the oil hole has the floor of the bar groove run through, not under the hole, thereby making the hole only a half circle.
The replacement have fully open circular oil holes and even cutouts making the bar groove much deeper at the oil hole dropping the oil level way down.

Thinking of looking for an Oregon bar with an oil dam to give a try before jumping ship. This is the reason I avoid chinese parts but never expected the "Husqvarna" bar to be from there. It was a surprise and disappointment but atleast strengthens my point of view.

 

[Franny K]

That deep part is probably from making it like the oregon 041 mount that oils from the unused tensioner adjustment. Numerous husky small saws use that 041 mount as well. Yours is the Oregon 095 or husky small mount, I wouldn't be confident an Oregon bar would be different. I explained how to make your own dam and stated the wood chips probably filled in pretty soon as well. If you are pointing the bar down it shouldn't run out the rear no matter what. You didn't state how many nose teeth but I suspect the same basic bars are being used for 3/8 low pro and 0.325NK just a different nose sprocket in the 9-lo pro or 10-NK and the other one has significantly larger drive links. I have my suspicion the 7 tooth lo pro uses the same or similar parts as the 10 tooth 0.250 in some cases.

 

[Snap]

Both are 3/8 low profile, Husky #501 9592 52, 7 tooth nose.

I hadn't run it out of wood in the past but recently swapped carbs so it was needed to make adjustments.

I'll check out the adjuster holes. I'm not sure how hot it gets there but epoxies are heat sensitive. Somehow I think it mayt be related to the new bar.

I have a new hose installed and no leak behind the crankcase where the tank to pump hose attaches.

Edit: I probed around in the bar groove at the oil hole and found that the floor of the groove is at the same level immediately at the front and rear sides of hole and there is the "well" that I mentioned right at the hole, probably formed by milling out a semicircle at and of the same diameter as the hole. I would say that it (mine) doesn't appear as a "dam" design but rather a pot hole design. There is no impediment to prevent rearward oil flow once the well fills because the bottom of the groove toward the rear of the bar is no higher than normal, and it will fill because the chain doesn't dip far into the well to empty it.
If it's actually an Oregon as you suggest then I agree a change will be of no help.

 

[Snap]

Picked up a Husqvarna Techlite today and it appears to be of higher QC and design than the cheaper asian import; the oiler hole is smaller and aligns much better with the oil slot in the chain shield and the design inside the bar hole/trough is like the original and not a redesign. Very nice looking bar too and although it's supposed to be lighter it is a bit beefier than the cheapie one, both in the body and the nose.
When the sky stops drooling I'll give it a try; fingers crossed.

 

[Snap]

Franny,
Thanks for your input.
Apparently it was the Asian import "Husqvarna" bar bought through the mail that had features different than the original that was causing the problems.
The more expensive dealer stock Techlite had features like the original and cured the issues.
Lesson learned; always buy the spare parts when and where inspection can be done on the spot.
The dealer threw in a good discount as a thanks for the business.