Felling Marks

[Hal]

I have a new Husky 365 with felling marks on the case. Are these of any real benefit or is it simply a marketing tool?

I have cut lots of firewood over the years by simply eye balling the desired path to fell the tree without too much problem, however I must admit that on occasion some trees just didn't want to cooperate and would choose a slightly differant path.

The owners manual doesn't really explain the use of the felling marks, so lets see if I have this correct.

I'm assuming they are to be used as a visual aid (sight line) in correctly lining up the notch cuts and the felling cut so the resulting hinge directs the tree down the correct path. Is that correct? Any other recommendations?

Thanks,

Hal

 

[woodbug]

Hal, yep you use the site to aim where you want to lay the tree. When I am setting up my cut I stand next to the tree with the saw not running and place the bottom of the bar at an angle to the trunk at the height I intend to make my first cut and site the direction I want the tree to land using the site.
Once I have found the spot I want it to land, and figured out all the other variables (wedging etc.), I step back start the saw and set it against the trunk and check my site again. Then squeeze the trigger and make the top of my face cut, and then make the bottom cut by using the site again.

 

[smokechase II]

The sights are an important tool. You bet.
A couple tricks:
1) For the most accurate use of the sights, don't look down at them. Look at them from behind. A good comparison is sighting a pistol. The faller needs to see the sights and the target in the same view. You can bob your head up and down and draw a line mentally or draw a line with your off hand on trees that don't require but minimal accuracy. But for those that do, give yourself the precision of seeing down the sights to the target in one view.

2) The sights point to where the powerhead is facing. This is slightly to one side of where the tree is facing. In a case needing some falling precision, have your sights point slightly off-set. For instance, with a tree of 30 inches in diameter, that would be a 20-21" off-set that the sights are pointing to instead of your exact intended lay.
Intended lay is the center of the tree, so (30/2) + distance from the tree to the sights (5-6").

These two items may seem like being really picky. But someday it will come to you that they are important on a few trees.

The sights can also be used during the back-cut. If you want even holding wood all the way across, just have the sights point to the same spot as they did during the face.

Gunning is best with the saw cuts made level. If you were to sight using the downward portion of the open face style of cutting as many do. Note that if the saw is not level, the sights on the side and top face two different directions. Bring the saw to a level position and those two sight lines will now match up. This is not a problem when gunning from a level cut.

 

[Hal]

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I knew someone in this group would come through if I just asked.

Hal

 

[manual]

Smokechase II is right
I like trying to see how close the tree fells in referacne to the sights. keeps me alert. kind of like making a bullseye.

 

[tek9tim]

yep. Smokechase sure is right on. Used 'em just this morning to drop a lightning strike tree. Had the backcut perfectly parallel with the face without ever going over to the offside...