finished diy mill few ques.

[skindaddy]

finished building my mill a few months back still need to get some pics to show , but got to use it last night-and
i had expected bigger chips it started out from the get with just about powder? is that normal for ripping?
i have husq 460 with 24" bar was a brand new out of box bar and ripping chain from frawleys shop, tree was dead elm i believe maybe ash
had about a full 16" cut which worked the saw but never had good chips just dust and thoughts

also do they have a roller guide for a rip chain with the short angle?

 

[BobL]

Check the raker angle, some out of the box chain is pretty awful.

 

[skindaddy]

thanks bobl
if it was correct it would have bigger chips than while ripping?
the angle right not the height

 

[BobL]

thanks bobl
if it was correct it would have bigger chips than while ripping?

Yes but rather than "correct" I would use the subtly different term "optimised"
Correct implies a single value, Optimised means that the value suits a specific situation.
You have to bear in mind that ripping dry wood always makes more dust than crosscutting green wood.

the angle right not the height

The raker angle (RA) determines the height or depth the rakers should be set at.
Out of the box I've see RA as low as 3º but of you want chips you will need 5.5 to 6º
On marrow cuts like yours you can probably use 7º but try it at lower angles first as high angles will make the chain grabbier and the RAs are too high the saw may not even cut
Look here for details http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-6#post-4107285
Also here
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-8#post-5712979

If you don't want to bother with any of this then just take 3 swipes of the rakers and try cutting. If it's not making chips try 3 more and repeat. Keep going till the chain starts to grab then stop.
If you are still making a lot of dust then its the wood itself.

 

[Lester Gillett]

I have a question about the rakers. Do you need to set the depth first and then the angle ? I am also getting dust in my ripping cuts and
using a 24" bar on a Homelite 330. I have been using a stander chain ground to 10 degs and 25 raker depth. I have have not read about
the angle. Have a few White Oaks in the 38" size I need to trim down to fit our mill.

Lester

 

[BobL]

I have a question about the rakers. Do you need to set the depth first and then the angle ? .
Lester

It's all done at the same time - note: the angle is NOT the angle on the top of the raker. Read those links above and then ask some more questions if you need to.

 

[abbott295]

Lester, check out the links that BobL posted just above you for skindaddy. I think they will go a long ways toward explaining raker angle and answer most of your questions.

 

[abbott295]

I guess Bob is watching over you.

 

[Lester Gillett]

OK I just read all the links that Bob had on sharping. I see now what I need to do to keep my chains sharp and cutting correct . I think I will
order a ripping chain from Frawley's saw shop. I will also order some files and a guide for it. I have the angle gage and will check to see what
the angle is on the new chain. Thanks all and Bob for all the great info. I have some photos of the logs I am cutting and will have my son help
me post some later this week.

Lester

 

[skindaddy]

hey bobl
dont want to waste your time i know you have gone well beyond for everyone explaining this but i have a couple ques.
i have read over and over your post and still having trouble
do you have any videos recorded/posted?
also do you have a pic of say a stock chain and one that you have filed the rakers down i know im still doing something wrong by looking at my rakers
what do you set your angle with and do you still round the raker on the front edge?
can you explain this "It's all done at the same time - note: the angle is NOT the angle on the top of the raker."
i am a little dense at this and if you dont have time i get it its been beat to death ,

 

[BobL]

hey bobl
dont want to waste your time i know you have gone well beyond for everyone explaining this but i have a couple ques.
i have read over and over your post and still having trouble
do you have any videos recorded/posted?

Definitely not wasting my time - I sweated and puffed long enough CSMing to wish it on others.

Raker setting

Please note I don't do this every time I touch the rakers. I do it one to set them up then in the field I swipe the rakers 2/3 times after every 3/4 tanks of fuel.
I then recheck and reset the rakers using the method in the vid after every full day or two of milling.
I does take longer than using a standard raker guide but you gain some time because the cutters don't need to be exactly the same length.

also do you have a pic of say a stock chain and one that you have filed the rakers down i know im still doing something wrong by looking at my rakers
what do you set your angle with and do you still round the raker on the front edge?

When the chain is new its impossible to see visually any difference but by the time the cutter is worn half way you can easily see how much lower the rakers are,
David Lindsay now has one of my most worn chains and if he reads this he might post a pic showing how low the rakers are.

Here is a photo of my cutter and Will Malloff's cutter - read more about this image in this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/milling-dead-wood.293935/page-2#post-5796992

 

[skindaddy]

thank you so much bob i got a wixey on order and some practicing to do, i have got a chain touched up from reading these before i need to test it and report back.
i wish i had money and time, i would fly over there and work for the profits of knowledge.