Flywheel Keyway

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Just hold the flywheel on the position that you want, and tighten the nut with an impact wrench, {with common sense discretion} of course. Put some visible marks with a sharpie to make sure it isset it in the right position when you are done. The key just holds the flywheel in place while you tighten the nut, the taper, and torque, is what holds it in place.
 
Hi HT,sort of thought of that.Would 1 or 2 degrees off make much difference,I would think so.Just asked as so many people chase 064/066 f/wheels to suit different coil timing when 1 f/wheel could fire all coil types at the correct time when using no key.
Cheers,Chris.
 
Hi mad,no problems just curious on cutting another key way.Correct me if I am wrong,is the f/wheel / coil combos to do with key way location or something else?I Have got several ally wheels and coils so all good for me.Just key way cutting that's all.
Cheers,Chris.
 
Are there any differences in the flywheel magnet polarity, from one ignition combo to another one?
That would be the reason for chasing alternative flywheels.
If just the keyway, manually indexing without a key is fine.
Just do the requisite cleaning and careful fitment!
 
Points coil magneto, magnet polarity does not matter. For EI magnet polarity sure does matter for certain technical styles of EI. If the MFG was smart they would not change from their original polarity sequence (N-S or S-N) because the accommodation can be made up in the direction of coil wire wrapping.
I do know that early briggs and stratton engine required sending back to the factory for a magnet regauss/polarity change, to allow the factory EI upgrade to work. However I can do it myself with my equipment :rock:
 
Points coil magneto, magnet polarity does not matter. For EI magnet polarity sure does matter for certain technical styles of EI. If the MFG was smart they would not change from their original polarity sequence (N-S or S-N) because the accommodation can be made up in the direction of coil wire wrapping.
I do know that early briggs and stratton engine required sending back to the factory for a magnet regauss/polarity change, to allow the factory EI upgrade to work. However I can do it myself with my equipment :rock:
Are you saying that to pop on an electronic coil, on a Briggs with points, you need to do what?
 
Well, for the record. One just needs to clip the wire to the points, and bolt on the "electronic" coil, for a Briggs.
Attach the kill wire, if any, of course...
 
I have more than a dozen saws out there cutting without keys, more likely several dozen ported saws, some go back as far as 1985 and they have never moved. As already stated, the key only holds the flywheel in position until the nut is tightened. The key would shear off in an instant if the torque from the nut had not set the flywheel solid to the crank taper.
 
I have more than a dozen saws out there cutting without keys, more likely several dozen ported saws, some go back as far as 1985 and they have never moved. As already stated, the key only holds the flywheel in position until the nut is tightened. The key would shear off in an instant if the torque from the nut had not set the flywheel solid to the crank taper.
Can you "prove" this??????
 
Well, for the record. One just needs to clip the wire to the points, and bolt on the "electronic" coil, for a Briggs.
Attach the kill wire, if any, of course...
I know I'm probably wasting my time
First any coil is not electronic it is electromagnetic's.
You of course did your experiment to 1960-80's big cast iron single 10-16hp like 23000, 24340, 30000, 32000 which is the series this pertains to. It is a model that did a transition to EI at the end of the production life.
However the early ones have to be regaussed=reverse polarity to run the BRIGGS branded upgrade. That's why many vintage garden tractor owners send their flywheel back to Briggs where they regauss them. I don't need the factory since I built my own 1600V 500A pulse gausser primarily for doing classic bike magnetos.
I wonder if you have any idea what I'm refering to since the original pure electromagnetic coil, when replaced by the transister triggered EI module (& coil) YOU DO NOT EVEN NEED POINTS ANY MORE.?????? just one grounding kill wire.

L34
Also my friends husky 55 had a sheered flywheel key. after finding "home" I marked it with black magic marker socked it down and it still running over 2 years later.
 
I know I'm probably wasting my time
First any coil is not electronic it is electromagnetic's.
You of course did your experiment to 1960-80's big cast iron single 10-16hp like 23000, 24340, 30000, 32000 which is the series this pertains to. It is a model that did a transition to EI at the end of the production life.
However the early ones have to be regaussed=reverse polarity to run the BRIGGS branded upgrade. That's why many vintage garden tractor owners send their flywheel back to Briggs where they regauss them. I don't need the factory since I built my own 1600V 500A pulse gausser primarily for doing classic bike magnetos.
I wonder if you have any idea what I'm refering to since the original pure electromagnetic coil, when replaced by the transister triggered EI module (& coil) YOU DO NOT EVEN NEED POINTS ANY MORE.?????? just one grounding kill wire.

L34
Also my friends husky 55 had a sheered flywheel key. after finding "home" I marked it with black magic marker socked it down and it still running over 2 years later.

I have put the Briggs #398811 on the old cast iron horizontal engines, and they ran just fine. I didn't realize that I was supposed to pulse gegauss the little doohicky........ I guess I can see if those old rednecks are still alive to break it to them that their tractors need more work...
 

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