GB Mill modifications... yet again...

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aggiewoodbutchr

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I couldn't leave well enough alone.

When milling the large logs I post pictures of, most times I have to change the chain after every cut. I began tracking just how much time this consumed and found I was spending as much or more time setting up for each cut than making it. By the time I dismounted the saw from the mill, changed the chain and tighten it, fire the saw run it a few seconds, re-tighten the chain (required on the long bars), remount the saw, tweak the mill to compensate for bar sag and add fuel and oil, 15 minutes or more would pass. I began to ponder on how I could modify the mill so that the chain can be removed by loosening the bar only.

This is what I came up with. Instead of modifying the original uprights I fabricated new ones.

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I cut a 1/4" plate stiffener to connect the mill and power head and bolted them together sandwiching the bar. I also bent an open chip guard to replace the sprocket cover.

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I cut out a plate washer for the bar nuts.

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My GB bars come with a hole in the nose but my Cannon bar needs to be drilled.

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Oiler in place.

Continued...
 
Complete for now...

I lengthened the uprights to give me a 24"+ cut capacity. This will be useful when we want to quarter a log.

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Chain install...

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Now I just need to cut some wood!:chainsaw:
 
looks good!!!! Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???

I love people that think outside the box
 
Looks good to me. Involves a lot of drilling the bar though, if it doesn't have the holes already, but overall you would be well ahead.

You say changing the chain every cut. I assume to sharpen, or put on a newly sharpened one, not a new one?
 
Hey . . . . nice fiddlin' !!! . . . looks good and strong.

I find its a real bonus to not have to remove the bar from the mill to replace the chain. The pathway to do this on the BIL mill is a bit more tortuous than yours but it still works.

I can't tell from your photos but I assume you chip guard is not welded to the mill frame?

Anyway, I'll be interested to hear how it goes.
 
Very smart mod as always good work! I am sure I have asked before but would you reccomend a GB? I will be making the decision between the alaskan or the GB pretty soon (still no freetime yet!!) and I am still wondering if the GB with no mods is the way to go for me or if I should just go with the alaskan which seems to mount quicker and be a little simpler maybe can even change the chain due to the way its mounted. I do really appreciate the construction of the GB though. Tough decison. Thanks
 
looks good!!!! Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???

I love people that think outside the box

+ 1 .
also hows deflection goin to work.....not build up where the dogs would be ?

Aggy... your refining what we'll ,probably all end up doing
THANKS FOR THE PICS.


Your Pecan slabs sure look choice
 
Nice customizing:clap: I have thought of mounting a bar that way but could not come up with a good way to make a chip/chain guard. Looks like you have mounted your chip guard to the dog bolt holes

Thanks for the pics. Let us know how it preforms:popcorn:
 
Fantastic ingenuity! That ought to save a lot of time.

So, you just drilled right through the center of the sprocket? I had no idea that was an option.
 
I've been out a few days so I'll attempt to answer all the questions in one shot.


... Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???...

+ 1 .
also hows deflection goin to work.....not build up where the dogs would be ?...

I haven't had the opportunity to run it yet. I'll be sure to let ya'll know how it works in this department when I do.


....I can't tell from your photos but I assume you chip guard is not welded to the mill frame?....

.... Looks like you have mounted your chip guard to the dog bolt holes....

It's bolted to the power head only and uses the bottom dog hole plus one I added to the top. I epoxied in a brass threaded insert because cast aluminum doesn't hold threads well in thin sections.


I am sure I have asked before but would you reccomend a GB? ...

My opinion is the GB mill has the edge over the Alaskan when using 42"+ bars due to the additional support for the power head. With practice you can mount and dismount a GB just as quickly as an Alaskan.


....So, you just drilled right through the center of the sprocket? I had no idea that was an option.

This bar had a hole in it from the factory but I have drilled Powermatch bar tips. You have to take extreme care to keep all the metal chips out of the bearings though. I use my shop vac to suck them up as I'm drilling.
 
missed one

.... Involves a lot of drilling the bar though, if it doesn't have the holes already.....

It's not too bad with the right bits. I use sharpened carbide tipped hammer drill bits with my drill press and it takes about 2 minutes total per hole. I tried many other types of steel bits a these are the best by far.


You say changing the chain every cut. I assume to sharpen, or put on a newly sharpened one, not a new one?

To put on a sharpened one. I rarely hand file these chains to keep my sanity. Godda love a chain grinder.:)
 
Thanks AGWB. It will be interesting to see how the guard works out. if the sawdust builds up too much, when you make your next drive sprocket/chip guard you may want to consider flaring the section of the guard in the region of the normal sawdust escape path.
 
Thanks AGWB. It will be interesting to see how the guard works out. if the sawdust builds up too much, when you make your next drive sprocket/chip guard you may want to consider flaring the section of the guard in the region of the normal sawdust escape path.

I have an idea on how I want to do this if necessary but I think there's enough room in there for the chips to drop free. I'll know for sure soon...
 
Well.....


She performed like she should have.:clap:

In use... flattening a slab for a table project (more to come on that).

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The chip guard worked great too. I might add a sloped deflector just for s&g's but it doesn't really need it.

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Hi Aggie ......... I didnt think you would have any hassle's with your set up , look's great mate , look's like a huge unit mate , no wonder you alway's have a helper with it , great pic's and info Aggie as alway's and some great idea's too . Cheer's MM
 

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