Getting into csm

[Gixxerjoe04]

Been lurking here for awhile and finally decided to ask some questions, I'm hoping csm stands for chainsaw milling haha. Anyways, been wanting to buy a bigger chainsaw for awhile to start milling up slabs and thick stock to use in my woodworking, I've got a stihl wood boss I use to cut up turning blanks. I keep spending my money on upgrading my tools, now that me and my wife are moving into a new house with some land to where I can actually mill wood up and store it without worrying about neighbors. Thinking about getting a stihl 660 or the 395xp perhaps, guess depends what i can find and if it's in my price point but hoping to find something on this site since finding used saws around me is about impossible. I don't plan on milling real wide logs all the time but would like to be able to if I find a nice one. Was wondering if running a 48-60" bar on one of those saws is fine or if I should stick to no more than 36"? I work on a farm that always seems to cut trees down but then they just pile them up and burn them, hate seeing all that wood wasted for no reason, some of the trees are pretty huge though. Was planning on buying a Panther Mill II, my buddy has one and seems to like it, didn't know if there are better options out there that are around the same price? Just looking for any suggestions and tips to get started with a 660 or 395xp. Have already read through the whole intro into milling thread which was helpful but figured I'd ask for more info for what I'm wanting to start with.

 

[BobL]

It depends what you are cutting and how often.
660/395 is more 42" bar (36" cut) territory.

Before you buy a Panther have read of this 0 make sure you read all the way through to the end.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/panther-mill-ii.260468/

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

Probably will be cutting cherry, walnut and maple mostly, could cut all the oak I wanted but know it's hard stuff and I'm just not fond of the look of oak. I'd say most of the stuff I'd be cutting would be under 36", was mainly wanting to go bigger because of the crotch sections usually being really wide and would hate having to cut it down to make it fit.

 

[BobL]

48" would be OK.
I know a bloke here in Oz that has a 42" and 60" for his 660 - he just uses the 60" for occasional cuts and its slow but works out OK.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

I wasn't sure if it's bad to run a bar and chain that big for the saw, or would just be real slow and just suck doing it that way. Of course I did just email the guy who has the 084 for sale, would have to worry about it I'd assume getting that chainsaw haha.

 

[BigOakAdot]

That 084 is a great price for the condition. I was in the same boat as you a couple years ago and I'm really glad I went for the 36" mkIII. It has fit most of my needs but if you're an obsessive type like me you're going to take it the distance.

Honestly with this forum and just the market for used stihls, it's always easy to trade up for the next size up. I started with a super clean 660 I got for 850 28" bar and 2 chains. Ended up upgrading to an 076 and still sold that saw for 750 to a friend. He honestly got it for a good price.

I've had problems with my big panther mill but that was a huge 74" model. I can't speak on the smaller ones. The depth bolts were slipping making for an uneven board when run even with a 660. Wish I went for the 60" grandberg but it's your call. I've heard good things about panther mill but I'm regretting not spending the extra money.

Can't speak on huskys I've never even ran one. Always here good things around these parts though. Good luck.

BOA

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

Yea the 084 looks real nice, just nervous about dropping that kind of money on something I can't see in person. Of course I wouldn't feel worried if it was from a seller who sells on here a lot and has a good reputation, but it being from a new guy you just never know, it is the internet after all and you just never know unfortunately.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

Would also be worried about getting an older saw like the 084 and not being able to find parts down the road.

 

[Cedar Eater]

I wasn't sure if it's bad to run a bar and chain that big for the saw, or would just be real slow and just suck doing it that way.

I don't see how it could be bad. I haven't run my homemade CSM for very long, but it would definitely be considered under-powered for milling and it just seems like running the saw real slow is not hurting it. You might need to add an aux oiler for the b&c.

 

[BigOakAdot]

Yes parts are definitely of concern when it comes to the 084's. That's the good thing with 076 and 075 saws they have tons of parts. I would definitely recommend those as a great starting mill saw. Should be able to get a full set up for around 500.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

Well looks like I'll be looking for something else, dang 084 sold.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

So I'm sure I'll end up with a stihl 660 or a husky 395xp, was looking at bars and chains and know I need a ripping chain. Was looking at http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...landPRO-33RP-Ripping-Chain-Per-Drive-Link.axd
Didn't know what's the best pitch and gauge to use. Was also wondering if there are specific bars I need to look at, didn't know is Oregon bars are any good, notice they're cheaper than most so didn't know if I should waste my money on one. Or are there certain bars you can and can't use to mill with?

 

[BigOakAdot]

Any ripping chain should help more than cross cutting chain. I just picked up a couple of loops of grandbergs ripping chain and I have to say it's on another level than others.

I milled a whole sycamore log including a bullet the other day and it never skipped a beat. Didn't even need a touch up.

 

[wombler]

I run an 066 (precursor to the 660) on a 42" bar with a home-made alaskan-style mill, and it does the job well enough. It doesn't fly through the wood, but I'm not falling asleep waiting for the cut to finish, either.

You don't *need* a ripping chain, but with my (home made) ripping chain (reground all the cutters on a spare loop of full comp full chisel), I do think I get slightly smoother cuts with it than with cross cut chain. Technique matters far more, though, in getting a smooth, flat cut. One thing to note with ripping chain is that there's two rather different things that both get called "ripping chain". There's what appears to be more-or-less regular chain, but with the cutters filed to 10 degrees rather than the usual ~30, and then there's Granberg ripping chain, which has a mix of cutters and scorers (see http://granberg.com/content/granberg-ripping-chain) and appears to be generally regarded as the anatidae's testicles, but is *very* expensive in comparison to regular chain (ripping or otherwise).

 

[Cedar Eater]

I'm using Granberg ripping chain. I tried purchasing it directly from Granberg, but I kept getting error messages. I got it from Sheldon Hill. I haven't seen a comparison between it and Bailey's. Your chain has to match your drive sprocket, bar nose sprocket and bar gauge. You want the thinnest kerf you can live with for the length of your bar and strength of your power head.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

Wasn't sure if there's a certain pitch and gauge people use more than others to mill with. Just waiting for a decent deal to pop up here so I can order the other stuff for the particular saw I buy. Big saws don't pop up around here often, found one decent deal and of course it sold right before I message the guy. There is a 090 in good shape locally which was really surprising, of course they want $1500 for it, so no thanks.

 

[rarefish383]

I started with the Homelite in my avatar. Used it with Stihl 404 chain. When I bought my new 660 I thought of getting a 404 bar for it just to stay the same size. 3/8 chain is a little cheaper. I had the money for an 880 and at the last minute grabbed the 660, because it was a little lighter, should have gotten the 880. I still use out of the box Stihl chain because I use the saw for firewood too, and I'm too lazy to switch back and forth. I've gotten some very smooth cuts on Oak and Hickory. I just milled a Dawn Redwood and it was so soft and easy to cut, every time I slowed down to step forward I had chatter marks in the wood. A too loose chain can leave more marks, see sawing back and forth will leave real bad marks. Technique is big. Getting the log up in the air on one end so you can keep a steady smooth push makes a huge difference. If you're on your knees where you have to stop, stand, move forward, squat and push, you'll get rough cuts. The logs I pick to mill are usually between 24" and 30", and I mill my planks between 2 1/2 and 3 inches thick. I get the exact same number of planks whether I'm using 404 or 3/8. In the past couple years I've had two Homelite XL 900 series saws given to me, a 923 and a 925. One was a good runner. I bought a 30" bar and chain for it off Ebay, so I had a milling saw for less than $75. My cousin was at an auction a few months ago and picked up a Homelite C5 and Homelite 330 for $1.00, now they are taking up space in my shed. Both have good spark and compression. You don't have to break the bank to get started. My 36" mill has worked on every thing I come across, except one Black Walnut. It flared to about 42" at the base and I wanted the flare. I milled as far as I could then took the mill off the saw and finished the cut freehand. Worked ok. Don't pass up an old runner for free or cheap. Just consider it disposable. I milled with my Super 1050 for 5 or 6 years before I got the money to buy the 660. I was leery about spending the kind of money it takes to buy a big saw on something used, so I waited till I was sure I liked milling, and had the money to buy a new saw. These are what I consider to be "bad" chatter marks in a cut, Joe.

 

[IyaMan]

I'm using Granberg ripping chain. I tried purchasing it directly from Granberg, but I kept getting error messages. I got it from Sheldon Hill.

I too get gear from Sheldon Hill and can only say good things about them. Their customer service is great and orders went smooth. Sometimes stuff can be on back order, but it usually gets in well before the time they allow for.

 

[Gixxerjoe04]

So I ordered a 56" granberg mill from Bailey's, now I def gotta find a saw to go with it haha.

 

[rarefish383]

I sold a 1956 Homelite 7-29 with a 52" bar and helper handle on it. It went to Australia. But with shipping, it cost more than my brand new 660, Joe.