Getting to other side of large trunks while using SRT

[SeattleMark]

Hey guys: I've an amateur arborist managing some very large cottonwoods in our lot. Many of the trunks are 3 feet in diameter. I need to remove quite a few smallish lower limbs (with my Silky saw) to allow more light to reach the ground of my property. I really enjoy using SRT to get off the ground (instead of climbing lots of tall ladders). However, it would be nice to set just a single rope (just once) on one side of each tree and somehow position to all sides of the trunk. I've removed trees in the past utilizing gaffs and a lanyard--and could move freely around the trunks. With SRT in my current pruning mode, my weight on the rope (with no gaffs on my slipping boots) tends to limit my ability to access the other side of these trunks. What might be known techniques to hit the other side of the trunks? Maybe set a girth hitch with foot loops to step into to simulate using gaffs with a lanyard? (Thanks for helping out an [old] newbie. )

 

[Del_]

I need to remove quite a few smallish lower limbs (with my Silky saw) to allow more light to reach the ground of my property.

Sounds like you need to brush up on your tree care knowledge.

What you are suggesting is hard on the tree.

 

[SeattleMark]

The question posed not a pruning question. Your point is well taken and jives with other threads in the arborists' forums and books like: "Ed Gilman's "Pruning:Illustrated" 3rd edition. Unfortunately, the original owner planted way too many huge trees in a very small space. I've already selectively removed some of our 80 trees (large and small) so that the others could have proper light and space. Now, we are just trying to get a little light down to the the short fruit trees and plants that are currently starving underneath the remaining 70+ foot giants. Might anybody on this forum have feedback on the original SRT positioning question?

 

[benjo75]

With enough scope in your climbline you should be able to swing about anywhere you need to. If you're tied on a lower limb it can be harder. I know you said set a line once but, but I would throw a line through the tree and down the other side. Do a base tie. Then work half the tree from one leg of line. Come down. Base tie the leg you were just climbing and climb the opposite side. It will be climbing twice for each tree but with SRT I don't find that hard at all. Even if you were going 30 ft high it would only take a few seconds to reach. If you do a base tie just remember to mind your line coming down the back side and don't cut it. But I know you'll be tied in twice for each cut anyway. Don't underestimate the effects of a handsaw on rope. It will cut it just as fast as a chainsaw when the line is under tension. You could have the someone on the ground pull the tail of your line to help you around. You could also hang another line down the backside of the tree and use it to pull yourself around there. It could be your second tie in point if need be.

 

[greengreer]

Higher tie in for a better angle or redirect for the side of the tree that is difficult.

 

[SeattleMark]

With enough scope in your climbline you should be able to swing about anywhere you need to. If you're tied on a lower limb it can be harder. I know you said set a line once but, but I would throw a line through the tree and down the other side. Do a base tie. Then work half the tree from one leg of line. Come down. Base tie the leg you were just climbing and climb the opposite side. It will be climbing twice for each tree but with SRT I don't find that hard at all. Even if you were going 30 ft high it would only take a few seconds to reach. If you do a base tie just remember to mind your line coming down the back side and don't cut it. But I know you'll be tied in twice for each cut anyway. Don't underestimate the effects of a handsaw on rope. It will cut it just as fast as a chainsaw when the line is under tension. You could have the someone on the ground pull the tail of your line to help you around. You could also hang another line down the backside of the tree and use it to pull yourself around there. It could be your second tie in point if need be.

With enough scope in your climbline you should be able to swing about anywhere you need to. If you're tied on a lower limb it can be harder. I know you said set a line once but, but I would throw a line through the tree and down the other side. Do a base tie. Then work half the tree from one leg of line. Come down. Base tie the leg you were just climbing and climb the opposite side. It will be climbing twice for each tree but with SRT I don't find that hard at all. Even if you were going 30 ft high it would only take a few seconds to reach. If you do a base tie just remember to mind your line coming down the back side and don't cut it. But I know you'll be tied in twice for each cut anyway. Don't underestimate the effects of a handsaw on rope. It will cut it just as fast as a chainsaw when the line is under tension. You could have the someone on the ground pull the tail of your line to help you around. You could also hang another line down the backside of the tree and use it to pull yourself around there. It could be your second tie in point if need be.

Thanks. I am able to switch lines for base tie in (as you suggest) on most trees. On the others, I'll improvise a redirect purely from cinching around the trunk. Both ideas are better than my original thinking. Also, great point about the caution needed with the Silky handsaw on a tensioned rope (as well as with the chainsaw). I appreciate your time to share your experience and insight.

 

[SeattleMark]

Higher tie in for a better angle or redirect for the side of the tree that is difficult.

Yes, very true. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[david1332]

Just tie in nice and high and go for a swing. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick and realize how much rope you need above you and such.
Low and slow man. Always start low and slow

 

[beastmaster]

I have in a similar situation use my other side(base tie) to pull me around. A short rope with a biner. Hook biner on the basetie line. Pull self around to where you want to be. Use prussic or something to secure your position. Can use your lanyard as far as that goes.
On SRT with tension on the line, you only need to Touch your line with a hand saw and it'll snap like a rubberband.

 

[SeattleMark]

I have in a similar situation use my other side(base tie) to pull me around. A short rope with a biner. Hook biner on the basetie line. Pull self around to where you want to be. Use prussic or something to secure your position. Can use your lanyard as far as that goes.
On SRT with tension on the line, you only need to Touch your line with a hand saw and it'll snap like a rubberband.

If I tie-in as high as possible, it shouldn't be hard to take advantage of the opposing base tie line to muscle around a bit then fine adjust position with prusik as you describe. And with the 2 tight ropes in close proximity holding weight (and life), the extra caution about cutting either is certainly warranted and appreciated. Thanks for your experienced counsel.