Grind Angle

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45° is a very shallow angle.
30° (top plate angle / vise rotation); 60° (grinder head tilt); 0° (vise tilt) have long been 'the standard' angles.
Oregon has been promoting 30°/55°/10° lately for general use.
Different angles work better in different wood and on different saws, but 45° is outside of the norm, and I can see why you are hitting your depth gauges.

Semi-chisel chain is best for general purpose work, including dirty wood.

Philbert

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/FilingAngles.pdf
 
40-20-20 on the usg works good in softwoods 40-10-0 for milling leaves a nice finish
 
I am using a norther tool grinder i reworked that works quite well. I also have a diamond wheel from us diamond the one that has a solid aluminum inside. It is the correct inside diameter as I check many times before ordering.
 
I could be wrong here but aren't diamond wheels for carbide chains and not recommended for regular steel chains? I thought I read that once here on AS.

I use cbn wheels for touch ups and use the pink Oregon wheels on chains that have been rocked and need a lot of help. Sometimes after using the pink wheels I go over the chain again with the cbn wheel just because I feel it leaves a better edge.

The cbn wheels don't heat up the cutters nearly as much and give off almost no sparks
 
45° is a very shallow angle.
30° (top plate angle / vise rotation); 60° (grinder head tilt); 0° (vise tilt) have long been 'the standard' angles.
Oregon has been promoting 30°/55°/10° lately for general use.
Different angles work better in different wood and on different saws, but 45° is outside of the norm, and I can see why you are hitting your depth gauges.

Semi-chisel chain is best for general purpose work, including dirty wood.

Philbert

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/FilingAngles.pdf
Thanks for your info. My grinder is un able to put vise tilt so I went with 30* vise and 60* tilt we will see how that does. Thanks again for all your help.
 
Do you have a copy of the manual for the similar Oregon 511A grinder?
It's easier to understand after you have used a grinder for a while - might be helpful.

Philbert
 

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  • Oregon 511A Users Manual.pdf
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No I do not the buddy has that grinder and I used it last night man is it nice. Thanks for posting that up.
 
For those that wish to experiment, try 3 degrees from vertical or 87 degrees with a 25 degree top plate angle, then finish off with a 6" flat file that is cut on the edges. (Goofy file).
John
 
For those that wish to experiment, try 3 degrees from vertical or 87 degrees with a 25 degree top plate angle, then finish off with a 6" flat file that is cut on the edges. (Goofy file).
John
Do you happen to have a picture of a cutter sharpened this way? I'm curious how it looks and performs
 
A lot of grinders have the degree scales out on them. I recommend using a digital angle finder and/or a protractor to recalibrate to the real angles and mark your grinder accordingly. My head tilt was out almost 5* and the base angle to the right and left was out about 3*. The table tilt angles were bang on 10* I have a Lazer brand Grinder. It's similar to the Oregon grinders and only cost $150CAD.
 
My head tilt was out almost 5* and the base angle to the right and left was out about 3*.
Good idea to calibrate your grinder if possible. Lots of similar ideas in these threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/

But it does not have to be exactly 30° (or whatever) - none of us will likely notice a practical performance difference between all cutters ground at 28° and all cutters ground at 32° in normal cutting. The key thing is that each cutter on a loop is the same in order to get the smoothest cut If your right cutters were ground at 28° and your left cutters were ground at 32°, that could also lead to to pulling to one side.

Philbert
 
This is why the angle marks on Stihl chain and some others are so helpful. It is hard to get it perfect but if it's not close, you will notice.
 

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