Help in cleaning asphalt and tar from a chainsaw

[Sylvan21]

Try baby oil and a toothbrush

 

[zogger]

No idea if it would restrict airflow too much, but might try installing a screen over the starter cover air slots. Keeping it out might be easier than cleaning it once it gets in.

 

[jr27236]

I know from working on roofs, that I would use Vegetable oil. Took it off my hands, tools or anything else I happened (which happened a lot) to get it on.
I personally would not want to be charged with getting those clean, gives me that bad felling in my stomach just seeing those pictures.

 

[Shagbark]

I would try a small can of WD-40. I have used it to remove road tar from my vehicle. If it works for your application buy it in 1 gallon cans.

 

[HarleyT]

Try baby oil and a toothbrush

OOOOOOoooo.
And some soft music.......

 

[txgp17]

I know from working on roofs, that I would use Vegetable oil. Took it off my hands, tools or anything else I happened (which happened a lot) to get it on.

My experience with vegetable oil (bio-diesel) and hoses and gaskets made of Buna-N is that it deteriorates them quite quickly. I'll Google that to get more information.

If Stihl was using Viton then it would resist bio-fuels, including ethanol. Not that I'm pro-ethanol in any way.

Edit to add: My Google-fu shows that Buna-N /Nitrile hold up to vegetable oil pretty good. I'm gonna try it.

 

[NWCoaster]

WD40, believe it or not, it works really well on tar. We use it in our machine shop at the refinery all the time to break down tar like substances.... and it will make the plastic look nice too

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Most products that dissolves tar won't touch it once it's baked on.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

OOOOOOoooo.
And some soft music.......

 

[jr27236]

LMAO totally hysterical!!!

 

[Little Al]

Please share details.

I've got yellow road paint where yellow
Paint shouldn't be.

Please share details.

I've got yellow road paint where yellow
Paint shouldn't be.

Whr

Please share details.

I've got yellow road paint where yellow
Paint shouldn't be.

The product I used was one From the "Muc Off" range ( Road film remover) which is readily available here where I live SW France. I would think other brands would work just as well; IIRC I started with 2 times the recommended amount/mix in the spray bottle ( It"s mixed with water ) & then I added an amount extra to shift the stubborn stuff, probably ended up with 2.5 times more than the usual mix, & left to soak about 10 mins with top up sprays every minute or so.

 

[catbuster]

Schaeffer's Citrol.

http://stores.buyschaefferoil.com/p...citrol-citrus-degreaser-cleaner-1-gallon.html

I use it on my 460 rescue saws on my two ladder rigs and squad, along woth any othe saw that gets used on vent.

 

[Philbert]

No idea if it would restrict airflow too much, but might try installing a screen over the starter cover air slots. Keeping it out might be easier than cleaning it once it gets in.

My first thought as well. The 'classic' STIHL saws have open slots for air entry, relying on the air filter element, well . . . to filter. Newer models have 'sealed' covers, using the centrifugal force of the flywheel to pre-separate large debris. I was thinking of some type of mesh or screen that could be taped over the slots on your existing saws. Maybe some paper cut from automotive air filters or N95 type masks?

For removing tar, I usually use paint thinner - less volatile than gasoline. I use lots of old tooth brushes, and popsicle sticks cut off at a sharp angle, for cleaning/scraping lots of things that are hard to get. I have had good luck soaking chains (you did not mention the chains) in degreasers with sodium hydroxide (lye), although, you cannot soak the entire engine in the same way.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Philbert

 

[txgp17]

I have had good luck soaking chains (you did not mention the chains) in degreasers with sodium hydroxide (lye), although, you cannot soak the entire engine in the same way.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Philbert

The chains get dipped into Berryman Chem-dip. Also known as carburetor cleaner. After a few days or weeks in that, I blast them with hot water followed by compressed air to prevent rust. They come out looking new except for the missing teeth.

 

[Philbert]

The chains get dipped into Berryman Chem-dip. Also known as carburetor cleaner. After a few days or weeks in that, I blast them with hot water followed by compressed air to prevent rust. They come out looking new except for the missing teeth.

The water-based cleaners seem to be less nasty to use, without any fumes. Inexpensive - about $8/gallon, before dilution. We hit some roofing material doing storm damage clean-up: not as intense as venting roofs. Usually a short dip, diluted 50:50 with water, and a light brushing with a wire scratch brush (less than a buck at welding supply stores). Rinse well; bake at 200°F for 15 minutes to remove residual water; spray heavily with WD-40 to prevent rust around internal rivets.

Sorry, can't help with the missing teeth! Gotta spin replacements in.

Philbert

 

[txgp17]

Sorry, can't help with the missing teeth! Gotta spin replacements in.

Philbert

Well, the replacement carbide cutters are about $14 each from my Stihl dealer. The diamond wheel to sharpen them was $200. Last year I changed all the drive sprockets on 460's to 8 tooth (OEM was 7) which gives us 14% more chain speed. It's made a huge difference in the number of broken teeth.

 

[7sleeper]

Well, the replacement carbide cutters are about $14 each from my Stihl dealer. The diamond wheel to sharpen them was $200. Last year I changed all the drive sprockets on 460's to 8 tooth (OEM was 7) which gives us 14% more chain speed. It's made a huge difference in the number of broken teeth.

Less or more broken teeth?

7

 

[txgp17]

Less or more broken teeth?

Way less. Sorry for not being clear on that.

 

[Scablands]

WD40 is mostly kerosene. So if WD works, try dunking in kerosene. And that won't degrade the rubber parts as kerosene is buna-N friendly.

 

[Philbert]

WD40 is mostly kerosene.

Not sure of your source for this information. In my use, it appears to have penetrating and solvent properties different than pure kerosene. But if kerosene works for you . . .

http://www.wd40company.com/partners/msds/usa/

Philbert