Help with 041 carb

[Haywire Haywood]

Haywood have a 041 super w 20inbar that will eat anything i put it in. Just rebuilt it last summer new P&S from stihl new oiler and new B&C just wondering were u got an aftermarket P&S i looked for months before i found a dealer with the kit and then it was in a ziplock bag covered in dust and could find no 48mm kit in the aftermarket. Also if u need any reference info off of mine let me know i will be glad to help as i am a little far away to swap carbs.

I got mine off ebay... $104 for NOS 48mm P&C if I remember correctly.

Ian

 

[Ghillie]

Update?

Did it drown, melt or start running right?

opcorn:

 

[belgian]

I guess I'm saying that although its possible that you have a timing issue, its more likely that you have a fuel issue. Try this....forget the carb for now.... disconnect the fuel line...put a tablespoon or so of raw mix down the carb throat, maybe two (hold the throttle open to make sure it goes into the engine). I find that if I overdo this a bit (intentionally), it will be a bit hard to start (fuel loaded), but once it does, I get 5 - 8 seconds of run time. This gives you a few golden moments to diagnose your coil. If you can accellerate the saw cleanly once or twice before it leans out, you know the coil is doing its job. You've pretty much narrowed things down to a fuel issue.

Lest I receive credit for this gonzo whopper of an idea, I must admit I just took this excerpt out of the "Bad Chainsaw Mechanics Guide," Chapter 6, entitled "Your Carburetor, Precision Fuel Metering Device or Your New Hacky Sack?"

I also feel a bit stupid for not suggesting this earlier, but I think its possible that your kill wire might be grounding out... maybe not enough to outright kill the saw every time, but it might be robbing enough juice to give you a crappy or inconsistent spark. I'd disconnect it from the switch and temporarily wrap the wire loosely in electrical tape to take it out of the equation.

Although the problem is not easy to diagnose, Andre mentioned some good tips. I have worked on a couple of 041's and the one with electronic ignition gave me the worst fits.

Try the tee spoon fuel tip from Andre : it may indicate if the saw is able to rev up without showing the "rich carb" symptoms. Does the carb hold pressure after your rebuild ?

My feeling is you got a timing problem. Try to identify if the timing is according to specs (points open at xx mm for TDC). I have to admit that I don't know if the porting you did does require timing adjustment.

Also, the 041 I've seen were prone to faulty plug wires. Replace if you have a spare one.

I fiddled with a Solo Rex last week that has driven me nuts an entire day and still didn't find the problem. As simple as the 2 stroke engine may be, sometimes they drive you nuts :rant: .

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I gave up on it. I bought crank seals as shot in the dark and never installed them. The saw and the seals are gathering dust in the corner of the barn.

Ian

 

[Lakeside53]

In 30 years someone will move the hay, and find a nice (but dusty) 041, then to their amazment, a packet of NEW seals! SCORE!!!

 

[JohnO]

Since this thread was resurrected, did you swap the carb for the 041 Super version? They are different, right? (I don't have my specs with me right now). I may attempt the same conversion at some point, unless of course you want to sell yours cheap...

-John

 

[dustytools]

Will the carb from an AV work on the FB? If it will you can try mine out on it Ian.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I think it's spoken for. Rob (Stihl 041S) wants to make a mill from a double ended bar and two 041 Supers. He's getting it in partial trade for the 660 that appears in my sig unless he changes his mind about it between now and Christmas. I suggested he make the mill from tandem mini-macs. LOL

Ian