Help with edging setup - Chain/Bar questions Makita 6421

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Turd Furgeson

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Hey guys,

I just picked up a ripsaw portable bandmill mounted on a 440 magnum powerhead a few weeks ago. From the research I've done it looks like it would be beneficial to edge the logs into cants before using the ripsaw to extend the life of the bandmill blades.

I was planning on using a Makita 6421 for that operation riding on a knock off Lumber Maker. I have two different bars I could use for this. One is a 24", .375 pitch, .050 gauge roller nose Jonsered bar that I picked up stupid cheap on clearance at Tractor Supply. The other is a 24" solid nose .050 gauge Sugihara lightweight bar that I bought from ebay a few years back.

From what I've read, using low-pro chain would be beneficial for what I'm doing as the 6421 is a bit light on the CC side for milling.

Now, Bailey's told me I need a special low-pro bar and drive sprocket to use their low-pro ripping chain. Everytime I aske for the part numbers of the correct part numbers to order I get hung up on or disconnected via their live chat. Which is really irritating.

I've also read that I can use a standard .375 pitch bar with the woodland pro low-pro ripping chain. I know the solid nose bar would work no problem, but what about the roller nose bar?

Can I use the low-pro or should I just stick with standard .375 ripping chain?

Thank you!

TF
 
Good luck on finding lo pro/picco drive sprockets, bar might be easier to come by.

If your drum will take a .404 rim others here have turned those down to fit lo pro/picco. There are 3003 stihl mount bars for lo pro/picco, not sure if those could be adapted?

Stihl make a spur drum for 066 in lo pro/picco, but that is not going to help.

let us know if Bailey's has anything as there is interest in lo pro for milling.

Might be easiest to just use 3/8 ripping chain
 
It looks like Cannon does make the low pro bars.

http://www.cannonbar.com/wp-content...To-See-Full-SuperMini-Bar-Model-Selection.pdf

Although it doesn't look like bailey's has many on their website.

Here is one I could find. http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...for-Stihl-72-Drive-Links-CSM-S1-20-50-3LM.axd

With that problem solved, it looks like the next one is finding picco / lo-pro drive sprocket which looks next to impossible for my 6421.

It looks like I could order an 036 spur gear sprocket and modify it to work with my 440 magnum.

Overall it sounds like a lot of expense and work for a setup to edge logs into cants.
 
Even though I use Lopro to edge boards I wouldn't bother.
Mainly I use a corded Makita circular to edge boards and pieces up to 2" thick
I only use Lopro to edge stuff thick than 2" because it fits my 441 which fits my small monorail CSM.
Lopro really comes to the fore milling with small saws in narrow, soft wood.
 
I did find a place that sells the lo-pro sprockets that will fit on both the dolmars and the stihls. They're not cheap at about $30 a pop.

https://www.6kproducts.com/sprocket-375_p_pitch.html

BobL, where did you get a lopro sprocket for your 441?

I'm still on the fence. Did you notice a big difference with the lopro on how hard the saw has to work?
 
BobL, where did you get a lopro sprocket for your 441?
I turned it down from a used 8 pin 404 sprocket.
It needs a custom mandrel made to hold the sprocket while it is being turned
Mandrelfront.jpg
The standard rims are a sintered steel alloy which is rock hard and it really worked the tungsten carbide lathe tool overtime.
Every taking fine cuts (not easy with TC tools) there were lots of blue and purple chips coming off even though I was flood cooling it.
Luckily I have a diamond grinding wheel that can restore the tungsten carbide tool otherwise I would have had to throw it away but it only cost $5 t replace so its not that big a deal.

I'm still on the fence. Did you notice a big difference with the lopro on how hard the saw has to work?
Nothing to do with chainsaw milling makes a BIG difference and by itself Lopro does not make a lot of difference, you have to tweak a few other parameters to really notice any difference.
A different question might be, "Is it worth the bother?" , and to that I would answer "yes" and more so in your softwoods.

An AS member called Mtngun used the same setup on his 660 cutting 24-30" wide softwoods boards and notice a significant difference based on time cuts
I'm not sure if you know about raker angle settings but Mtngn found that using Lopro he could use much higher raker angles (i.e. lower rakers) up to 9.5º this translates to a raker depth of 44"' on a new chain.
Finish is worsened and B&C wear is greater but it sure cuts faster.

I use it on a 441 with a 25" bar - my raker angles are 7.5º which translates to 33"' on new chain. Don't forget that the wood I'm cutting is 3-5 times harder than your softwoods.
 
I ended up buying one of the 6k products sprockets on ebay a few weeks back in case I want to use lo-pro in the future.
I just wanted to update everybody that I ran across this website. It looks to have all you would ever need/desire for lo-pro milling.
http://alaskanmill.co.uk/product-category/lo-pro-milling-bars-for-stihl/

Thanks for the lead.
The one thing that they don't seem to have have is an 8 pin drive sprocket as bigger saws can really take advantage of this.
 
I remember back when I was first interested in chainsaw milling I thought about using smaller chain. I didn't know anything about low pro chains, I thought about using .325 pitch. It never happened though, I just use regular 3/8. Another thing you can try is a skip chain if you find you are under powered for the size logs you mill. I wanted one of those Ripsaw attachments also but they are a little out of my budget right now. All I mill is building materials so a Ripsaw would be great.

I think 64cc is a little small for milling but should be fine for edging even with normal 3/8 chain unless you are doing large logs.
 
You're welcome for the lead Bob. You should contact GB and request that, it looks like they're shooting to be the leaders in LP milling. Do you have any concerns about using lo-pro chain at those lengths?

I would think the smallest chain you can get away with is a benefit in a milling application, a smaller kerf equates to less power required thus less wear and tear per cut on your saw and less waste of your wood.

Watch craigslist for a ripsaw. They seem to come up every so often for a reasonable amount. I picked mine up with a low hour 440 magnum for $900 or $950 with a ton of extras. There was just one on craigslist in Kansas earlier today with a 460 for $1,000 but it must be gone as I can't find the add anymore.
 

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