Hickory for tool handles - slabs vs staves

[oaktreeguy]

Hickory trees, 12-18" or so in diameter, pretty straight. Would like to save for tool handles.

I'm thinking it makes sense to split them down the length to save staves? Or assuming the grain is pretty straight, maybe slabs are ok too? Slabs seem like they'd store (and later, work) more easily.

Any particular type of woodwork where hickory excels? I'm just getting started there so not sure if there's anything I should save some for other than handles.

Thanks!

 

[Picaso]

have you cut into them already (and know their quality)? I had some 22" hickory and lots of plans but bucked it and nothing but ring shake so it became great firewood instead. As far as uses- chair parts, flooring.. you can substitute it anywhere for flat and casework, though i haven't heard of much in the way of turning. Old timers used to use it as pegging and hingework for doors that were solid wood. You can also you spring inner bark for chair latticing seats. People pay well for that if you can process it. Handles work as well as you mentioned- all my older impact hand tools have hickory handles. remember to save those offcuts for the firewood scroungers like me if you dont burn. great wood - good luck


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[oaktreeguy]

Thanks!

Actually the hickory we took down today was 24"+ DBH. Got a majority of the limbs cleared. Trying to decide how how small out from the main trunk is worth milling. There are a few 6-10" limbs that are fairly straight out to a crotch that I may try to mill. All new to this, so learning, but appreciate everything everyone shares here!

 

[Picaso]

Woodcraft has only survived because people were willing to share. Post some pics here of what you get into so others can enjoy and learn - mistakes and all. Oh and another thought on use - I bet that hickory crotch wood could make some excellent joiners mallets. look up paul sellers video on youtube and sell some of those suckers.


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[Jumpsuit]

Have you seen the Woodwright show on pbs? There was one show he did all on hickory, specifically, young hickory and it's uses. Sounds like your trees aren't young hickory but maybe near the top, the parts you'd normally throw through the chipper, might qualify. I have one young hickory (about a 6" tree) my uncle cut down a few years ago, I just planed the bark off and painted it for drying. I did make a hammer handle when I broke one, had to sort of whittle it. One of these days I'm going to make a huge mallet and give it to my uncle for stubborn plumbing fittings. Anyway the Woodwright liked the young hickory for some particular qualities like workability using old fashioned tools. I think it has the right combination of strength and flexibility too. 12-18"ish would probably be good to slab and use like any other hardwood for furniture, cabinetry, etc.

 

[oaktreeguy]

Thanks, I will work on how to get some pics posted.

I am surprised how light the end grain is. It looks a lot like pine. Also is it typical for sap wood on a 30" hickory to be less than 1" thick?

 

[Boogedy_Man]

Hmm. I'm not terribly knowledgeable on the subject, but I've always used sawn hickory for tool handles. I can definitely make a better handle than I can find in any local store. I just rough out the shape on the bandsaw, and then use a belt sander with no platen for the final shaping. I use a sliver of hickory for the wooden wedge, then a 3/8 steel tube that I cut and shape into a metal wedge. I finish tightening it up in linseed oil and they're pretty much permanent. I like them drier than dry when I start, so the wood can only grow with the linseed oil.

At least if you leave in slabs there are options.

 

[oaktreeguy]

Boogedy_Man, I think I'll slab it. Finding half decent handles is always a pain, near impossible at the store these days.

Probably 9/4 near top and bottom where it'll be flat sawn, and 12/4 for a pass thru the heart, so I can use the quarter-sawn piece for handles oriented vertically.

In between where it's riff sawn, probably 8/4 or so for furniture.

Does that layout make sense?

Also, thinking I'll mill 20' slabs and cut down later based on use at the time. There's a crotch at 20' so that's the longest I can (or would) go.

 

[Boogedy_Man]

I think your plan sounds solid!

 

[oaktreeguy]

After some simple math on the estimated weight of a 20' long hickory slab 2-3' wide and 2-3" thick, I think I'll cut one section 13' for 12' table stock and the other 7' piece for other various furniture. Now, to figure out which length to leave the crotch in.

Am I doing something I'll regret by cutting the 20' trunk in two pieces?

 

[Franny K]

Any particular type of woodwork where hickory excels? I'm just getting started there so not sure if there's anything I should save some for other than handles.

Thanks!

How about drum sticks? If you get the tv channel that has how it's made there is a segment on making drum sticks. They start with hickory but if I recall start at a dowel not the log like some of the other wood how it is made segments. At least to make a drum stick a lathe to make oval handles is not needed.

I milled a hickory log parallel with the bark and ended up with tapered section in the middle. Makes edging low waste. Not sure what I will end up doing with it but that would make the grain more straight than making a cant and cutting it up.

 

[Picaso]

After some simple math on the estimated weight of a 20' long hickory slab 2-3' wide and 2-3" thick, I think I'll cut one section 13' for 12' table stock and the other 7' piece for other various furniture. Now, to figure out which length to leave the crotch in.

Am I doing something I'll regret by cutting the 20' trunk in two pieces?

yeah whoa that would be a beast to wrangle! I had a 23' white oak log that was too big at the top end for the sawmill to take (40" at the small end closer to 55" dia bigger end). Im "used" to loading and moving logs by hand, and those were just too unwieldy..2", 3" thick whatever .. just wasn't practical enough and easy to damage the slab, or me. I ended up cutting it 14' and 9'. I think your plan sounds much more practical. What if you need to take that slab out to check on it or show it to a potential customer? if you end up finding out you needed a 20' slab id be surprised. My 14' slab is in line to be a conference table. Your problem is a good problem to have! just my 2c.

 

[5sticks]

When I first started my milling adventure, I saved 2 8-10ft lengths @ 14" diameter from a shag bark hickory that I had to remove from behind my house in order to put my deck in. Ended up with 6 slabs @2" thick (between 8&14" wide)that I was going to eventually make our dining table from.
Long story short, I now own a 3120 and envision my dining table as 1 beauty slab rather than taking the time to join all the hickory together. Is there any value in hickory, or should I use my backup plan and make a headboard?

 

[Karewarewa]

Thanks!

Actually the hickory we took down today was 24"+ DBH. Got a majority of the limbs cleared. Trying to decide how how small out from the main trunk is worth milling. There are a few 6-10" limbs that are fairly straight out to a crotch that I may try to mill. All new to this, so learning, but appreciate everything everyone shares here!

Hi we don't have much hickory growing in NZ, but was taught by an old boy from the States that he got his best handles from branches close to the right shape of the tool to be handled, then the handle combines the flexibility of the sap wood with the strength of the heart wood, I've used this method with my native wood's with good handle properties with great success, not sure if this is helpful to your situation, just sharing my experience, happy handling!