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Homelite 330 Repair Questions

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Oldlugnut, Jan 4, 2010.

  1. Oldlugnut

    Oldlugnut ArboristSite Lurker

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    I recently picked up a project saw (Homelite 330) with inoperative bar oiler. I checked all the normal stuff (tank filter/line, pump/diaphragm, pulse & oil hoses clear, etc.) & everything seems fine. I primed hoses and put some light motor oil in the tank but it made no difference. Not a drop comes out of discharge hole at the bar at full throttle runs. I pulled the saw apart to check the intake boot and examined the pulse & oil hoses closely for any leaks or soft spots. The carb boot was torn, which explains an inconsistent idle issue when running. The oil pump looks great -- no cracks or wear in the housing, ports clean & diaphragm looks fine. The engine has great compression and starts/runs fine (other than the inconsistent idle) -- just no bar oiler. Can you think of anything I'm missing in troubleshooting this thing? I've got another parts saw coming from FleaBay & I'll try swapping oil pumps & replace hoses, but I just can't find anything wrong with the ones on there.

    Also, I think I may have lost a fuel tank check valve when I pulled it apart. I never noticed anything falling out, but there's a small round hole in the tank that rests against a "filter" strip that's glued to the inside of the top case cover. I'm assuming it's to vent the fuel tank. The parts diagram shows a tiny piece labeled as a check valve that appears to be a press-fit in the hole. There is an impression in the "filter" strip that's a little larger than the hole, so I'm thinking the little bugger was in there & popped out when I pulled things apart. I sifted through my vacuum cleaner bag & the only small hard things I could find in the oily sawdust was roly-poly bug carcasses. Has anyone seen one of these check valves up close who can better describe what I'm looking for? I searched the work bench & floor (the chances of finding anything smaller than a Chevy V8 on that floor is slim:D). Homelite parts shows it as a discontinued item (of course). Any other saws with a similar check valve that I might be able to adopt if I can't come up with the original?

    Finally, how in the world do I get the "duckbill" out of the oil tank? Looking at the IPL, it appears that it's located behind a small round screen that's pressed in from the outside (just behind the air filter). I can see the screen and can feel the rubber valve by sticking my finger in the tank. Can I get it out without damaging it? Do I need to take it out if it's not clogged or leaking, i.e. isn't it only a vent for the oil tank? I don't think this tank is pressurized since the only hose connected to it is the hose taking oil to the pump.

    Sorry for the long post, I'm a :newbie: and it's too cold to play outside. I'll try to attach several pictures to help show what I'm talking about. Thanks!
     
  2. lesorubcheek

    lesorubcheek Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Hello and welcome OLN,

    Easiest thing first, yes there should be a duckbill on the small hole in the fuel tank. Lips point inward. All I've seen are orange. Open on one side and small lips on the other.

    As for the oiler, these can get really fun. Just played with one last week. Ran it for 5 minutes or so, and still no oil. I finally took the cover off the oiler body, sprayed a good bit of WD-40 to thin things out, slapped it back together and within 20 second, it started streaming oil.

    About the only thing you didn't mention was the spring underneath the oiler diaphram. Make sure its not missing. Try to make sure all lines and passages are cleaned out using air (5 or 10 pounds pressure is plenty) and WD-40. Sounds like you've looked at the lines for cracks.

    Never needed to replace a duckbill for the oiler, but that sintered metal plug would need to be pried out to get to it. If you suspect it as being clogged, just loosen the oil cap a few times as you're trying to get the oiler to start working. Start out with on'y 1/4 to 1/2 the oil tank filled. After its working, then you can test if its plugged up. Fill the tank full, tighten the cap, and run it. If the oil tank's duckbill is plugged, you can suspect the oil flow will stop after a couple minutes, and would resume if you opened the oil cap.

    Dan
     
  3. Oldlugnut

    Oldlugnut ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks for the WD tip -- I'll spray the inside of the pump before I try it again(after the new carb boot gets here). I'll also loosen the oil cap next time I run it, but I think the duckbill screen is clear. I can blow air through it from the outside and feel it blowing inside the tank. The spring is in the pump correctly & I can activate the diaphragm with a vacuum. I've examined all the hoses & connections very carefully, but will replace with new ones anyway since I have it apart. I've heard these oilers are weak & troublesome & now I'm a believer.

    How about the check valve in the fuel tank? Is there some kind of mini one-way valve that presses into that small hole? I'll scour the workbench & surrounding area again today for anything that doesn't look like an old nut, screw, washer or dead bug. Thanks for your info & tips! DW
     
  4. JohnL

    JohnL Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Maybe check that the pulse line and port are not blocked. If you can clear out the pulse line port in the cylinder by running wire through it and then blast with wd40 just to make sure it hasn't gotten blocked.
     
  5. Oldlugnut

    Oldlugnut ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks for suggestion -- pulse line is clear to crankcase. DW
     
  6. redunshee

    redunshee Addicted to ArboristSite

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    There is also a pulse line for the oiler that may be be squeezed closed. That's what I found with my 330. Replaced it and it oils fine. Problem is that on the 330 you have to take saw apart to replace oil pulse line, carb intake boot etc. A real PIA.
     

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