Homelite Chainsaws

[ANewSawyer]

One thing I've learned is there are no stupid questions. But I'll give a shot at helping...

Is it just stuck? Rusted? I attached a link to a diagram, it looks like there might be a bolt or nut that holds the drum on? I sure hope this is the diagram for you saw.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hom...s-Manual-For-SUPER-2-Chain-Saw-UT-10520-A.pdf

There was a nut, which I removed.
I can move the drum back and forth about 1/8" it just won't slide over the threads. It might be partially coming off. Maybe there is a washer or something I am missing.

I suspect like Ginger said that the drum is stuck to the bearing and the bearing to the shaft. Put some penetrating oil in there and leave it for awhile to see if you can free it up.

The "S" type clutches do break but I don't know if that would cause it to jam the drum.

Also watch for this which is from the repair manual.

View attachment 558057

Lovely. Thanks fot the tip.

Edt: This is one of the last models of this saw. It is quite close to the last of production.

 

[Ginger15]

Can you attach a photo?

 

[ANewSawyer]

Of the clutch drum?

 

[Ginger15]

Yes, of the trouble area.

 

[undee70ss]

Back with stupid questions. Working on my Super 2. I removed the clutch nut but the drum won't slide off the bearing. What am I missing?
I need to work on it some more but just haven't had the time.

Nothing else is holding it. It may just need a little persuasion. The bearing is pressed into the drum, it comes off with drum.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I will look about it next weekend. I might get to it sooner. I just don't have time to do stuff anymore, like I would like to. And this is the off season. The grass has just started growing and the weeds (not grass) need whacked. Ah, the woes of being a responsible adult.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Had two spare seconds to go by my shop. The nut and washer are off. I can see the bearing cage between the drum and crank. Still won't slide off. Hmmm. Didn't have my camera with me, sorry!

 

[Ginger15]

If I rebuild the SXL 925 do I need to split the case to replace the bearings? Can I skip the bearings and just do seals? Lets hear some opinions.

 

[fossil]

If I rebuild the SXL 925 do I need to split the case to replace the bearings? Can I skip the bearings and just do seals? Lets hear some opinions.

If the bearings roll smoothly ad there isn't any radial play (max 0.0004") I wouldn't change them. You wouldn't be able to feel that kind of play and would have to measure it with gauges If you do, you will have the saw completely disassembled. Back plate off, connecting rod off and the screws holding the PTO bearing out.
I have some old well worn saws of that series and all have good original bearings.

 

[Ginger15]

I don't feel anything while moving the crank. All smooth. Guess I'll leave them. How about the seals?

 

[fossil]

Change them. Buy two SKF CR6119 seals, Both sides take the same seal.

If National / Timken 253747 seals are easier to find in your area, they are the same size as the SKF seals.

 

[Ginger15]

Anything I use will have to be online order sadly. Do homelite seals not work?

Local parts store does not carry timken in store.

How do you get to the seals?

 

[ANewSawyer]

If those are the same size SKF seals that a Poulan 3700 takes, I may have some spares.

Looked at the Super 2 in detail. I think there is a burr on the end of the crank and the burr is holding the needles (and clutch drum) on. And something is going on the the clutch, too. Seemed like the drum was pulling on it. Idk.

 

[fossil]

Anything I use will have to be online order sadly. Do homelite seals not work?

Local parts store does not carry timken in store.

How do you get to the seals?

Homelite seals work but why buy old seals if you can buy new?

 

[Ginger15]

I see they are half price as well.

 

[undee70ss]

Homelite seals work but why buy old seals if you can buy new?

One of the issues with old NOS seals ( that's been sitting on a shelf for 20, 30, 40 years) is they get dry rotted and hard. The rubber part can break before you even get them installed. Buy new recently made ones. Lots of places to buy them online.

 

[Ginger15]

Thanks. Waiting on the cylinder and then I'll know if I'm building it or not. Autozone can have the seals in about 2 days.

 

[Ginger15]

Pricing parts out it will be about 195$ give or take 10$ to get it running again. Not including a B&C. Is it worth it?

 

[undee70ss]

Pricing parts out it will be about 195$ give or take 10$ to get it running again. Not including a B&C. Is it worth it?

Do you have a larger saw. Do you need it? Do you want it. These are the questions that need answers. I don't buy and sell, but if fixing to sell I would say no.

 

[Ginger15]

I have a Mac 1-62 but its having fuel leaking issues at the moment. My next largest is the 410 at 68cc. It would be nice to have so I can run my 28" bar better and move up to something longer. But its still 'expensive' in the terms of an old saw. I might just keep it as a parts saw for now and see if I can track down another.