Homelite XL hard to start cold

[HorseShoeInFork]

I have an early 80's Homelite XL (not a lot of use) that has been getting harder and harder to start when it has been sitting for an extended period of time. It takes 20-30 pulls to get it to hit the first time. After that it starts right up and will run all day long and restart until it sits for a week or more. Any ideas?

 

[67L36Driver]

Needs a new pump diaphragm in the carb.
Unfortunately the engine must be removed from the housing to get the carb. off.
While you have it apart, replace all fuel and oil lines and a new duckbill in the oil tank.

Time and aggravation. Just buy a runner off Craigslist or evilbay.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Is the little XL or an XL 12?

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

It's the small XL ~ 12" bar.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

rebuild the carb and replace all the lines as mentioned.

 

[Guido Salvage]

It's the small XL ~ 12" bar.

Like Carl mentioned, the XL and Super 2 design makes them a PITA to work on.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Like Carl mentioned, the XL and Super 2 design makes them a PITA to work on.

Well bummer. I had the whole mess all apart a year or two ago for new fuel lines, pull cord & air filter. Thanks for the quick replies folks.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I don't find them all that bad to work on.
Mini macs on the other hand.....

 

[67L36Driver]

Like Carl mentioned, the XL and Super 2 design makes them a PITA to work on.

Note after you do a couple.

Since the OP did it once, he knows the drill.

The little red Homie tip and slide. LOL

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Since the OP did it once, he knows the drill.

The little red Homie tip and slide. LOL

Yeah, it's not the end of the world and should be easier without the 5lbs of gooey sawdust packed around everything. A new 192T Stihl has been tempting me but I will probably go with a $10 rebuild kit for the Homie.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Well almost 3 years later I finally got around to this out of necessity rather than want to. I was having to dump gas in the plug to get it to fire.

$5 carb kit and a half hour of my time and it's back running like at top. I replaced the duckbills on the gas tank and oil line in the tank (after fishing it out of the bottom of tank). It seems to be leaking a lot of oil now. Any idea what the problem is?

I've owned it 23 years now; I'd like to hang on to it but dang I'm getting covered in oil.

 

[undee70ss]

Well almost 3 years later I finally got around to this out of necessity rather than want to. I was having to dump gas in the plug to get it to fire.

$5 carb kit and a half hour of my time and it's back running like at top. I replaced the duckbills on the gas tank and oil line in the tank (after fishing it out of the bottom of tank). It seems to be leaking a lot of oil now. Any idea what the problem is?

I've owned it 23 years now; I'd like to hang on to it but dang I'm getting covered in oil.

Leaking from where? If the duckbill was at bottom of tank, chain wasn't getting any oil and oil would have been sucked into crankcase. If leaking from muffler, it will stop after enough run time. If leaking from the bar area, pressure from tank will cause the leak. see pic, taken from owners manual.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

It's leaking from the bar area. It has always slobbered after shutting it of, but this seems excessive.

 

[undee70ss]

It's leaking from the bar area. It has always slobbered after shutting it of, but this seems excessive.

Then you may need this, see pic

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you're not gonna use the saw for a month or so why not just drain the tanks? None of my saws has any gas or oil in them except when I'm going to use them then they get drained after I'm done..

 

[Okie]

If you're not gonna use the saw for a month or so why not just drain the tanks? None of my saws has any gas or oil in them except when I'm going to use them then they get drained after I'm done..

Old thread that has come alive:
And some chainsaws can be readily primed thru the muffler instead of spark plug hole or carb throat. (for a faster more user friendly primer)

Some of them itty bitty Homelites carb rebuilds will last somewhat longer (for cold starts) if the saw is not stored where the building gets hot in the summertime. Heat seems to weaken the gas system and other stuff more readily.

 

[Pioneer]

Aren't the pressurized tank systems a pain? I have a couple of xl's, one has the pressurized tank system. Mine will leak oil even after you relieve the pressure on the tank, day-to-day atmospheric pressure changes will "pump" oil from the tank over a period of weeks if you cap it tight. You actually have to crack open the oil tank cap and leave it that way during storage if you don't drain the tank.
The pumping rate can be changed by simply changing the restriction orifice size. You can make up a few different types by filling brass tubes with solder and drilling them out using micro drill bits.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

If you're not gonna use the saw for a month or so why not just drain the tanks? None of my saws has any gas or oil in them except when I'm going to use them then they get drained after I'm done..

I've never ever drained any gas powered equipment when not in use. My nearly 20 year old Echo weedeater still to this day will start on the first pull. As for the oil, this Homelite didn't use to leak like this. Yes it drooled a little, but it's pouring out. I'm going to try cracking the cap to relieve pressure when I shut if off and see it helps.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Old thread that has come alive:
And some chainsaws can be readily primed thru the muffler instead of spark plug hole or carb throat. (for a faster more user friendly primer)

Some of them itty bitty Homelites carb rebuilds will last somewhat longer (for cold starts) if the saw is not stored where the building gets hot in the summertime. Heat seems to weaken the gas system and other stuff more readily.

Yep old thread, but it's mine that I started and 3 years later I'm finally addressing the original problem with the hard starting issue. Got that solved with a carb kit, but now the leaking oiler has me ..........................

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Mine will leak oil even after you relieve the pressure on the tank, day-to-day atmospheric pressure changes will "pump" oil from the tank over a period of weeks if you cap it tight.

My solution to this is a diaper like my micro is wearing. An old tee shirt in the bottom will contain the dribbles.