homelite XL12 high rev issue

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bran1har

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I have a homelite XL12 that I am trying to get runny properly. I cleaned the carb and the saw starts and idles fine. It will rev up fine but then dies after two seconds of revving. I've tried adjusting the carb every which way with no result. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
I checked the line and put a new filter just to be sure and it is all fine. I have taken apart the carb many times and eveything looks to be in check, could it be the crank seals?
 
Fuel line from the tank is always a big issue on those saws now, check the line and the filter in the tank, most are gooey or split from sitting with old fuel in them.

Jerry I was just gifted an XL 12 and its fuel delivery issue challenged. Are there manuals available somewhere for it. ?
starts and runs on forced fuel but not from tank so far.
 
A lot of these older saws have fuel line problems. I've had quiet a few with leaks in the lines at the top of the tank causing an air leak in the fuel line. To rule out a fuel delivery problem try hooking up a 2ft length of translucent fuel line to the carb. Fill a clean dry soda bottle with fresh mix and put the end of the fuel line in the bottle. Pull her over and check to see if she's pulling fuel into the carb, If it does see how she runs. If she runs well then replace the fuel lines, filter and rebuild the breather in the fuel cap. If you're getting the same results I'd expect an air leak, more than likely a crank seal.
 
Thanks buddy,
That's much better then nothing. Which I had plenty of...

I have never even seen one in real life. My whole life... :)

Where you been hiding, them things are as thick as blackflies or mosquitos, everybody has a dozen or more them around. I have junked hundreds of them.
 
My best XL12,

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Christmas%2B2010%2B271.jpg
 
Sometimes the XL saws can be checked for crank seal leaks by turning the saw while running until the crank is vertical on one side then turn it the other way..saw will slow down if it has a leak..they are kinda prone to leaking on the clutch side more than the flywheel side in my experience. The seal isn't too hard to replace but you do have to tear everything out on the clutch side to get to it..
 
Where you been hiding, them things are as thick as blackflies or mosquitos, everybody has a dozen or more them around. I have junked hundreds of them.

If it ain't fast or cheap...for me....I just say no and keep movin...this one came from a very good friend who I'd do anything for.
 
Is your saw fitted with the moulded rubbery fuel line with the thicker part where it passes through the case? if yes check the fuel line is not being squashed as it passes through the case they go all gooey & tend to collapse as the fuel pump sucks I would renew anyway & that part of the problem is solved also have you checked the new filters ability to pass the maximum fuel; partially blocked holes are not unknown.
 
I "improvised" my last fuel line. I used 1/4" fuel hose to go through the large holes in the airbox and tank and a smaller tygon line inside of it that goes to the filter in the tank. I may have used a little Motoseal where the line goes inside the hose but doubt it was necessary. This was a spur of the moment deal...lines are still available but not plentiful..
 
are fuel lines and small parts still available for these ol girls ?

Yes, both NOS and aftermarket molded fuel lines are still available. I bought a dozen from Randy Duncan a year or so ago.
If it ain't fast or cheap...for me....I just say no and keep movin...this one came from a very good friend who I'd do anything for.

I stopped doing any time consuming repairs to them many years back, just not worth it if charging for labor. I fix the odd one still, mostly carb and fuel line /filter related stuff.
 
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