Homemade slabbing rails

[copedirector]

Got the mill done now I'm hunting for ideas for homemade slabbing rails. What works for you guys?

 

[gemniii]

If your talking simple rails to ride your mill on there's vast tradeoffs between price and weight. I use steel unitstrut that can be had for about $15/10', but I got mine free.
I've used 2"x6"'s also. Aluminum strut would be lighter but costs a LOT more.

BobL's got some fairly complex designs, search some of his.
There's been several threads on the subject..

 

[copedirector]

Whats a good way to attach the struts together to cut further than 8-10'?

 

[betterbuilt]

I asked the same question a while back and got a bunch of great replies and pictures.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=140538&page=2

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=141708

 

[Plankton]

I use 2x4's or 2x6's with granberg slabbing brackets. Works well when my logs aren't that far from the truck.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46811&catID=

 

[mtngun]

Whats a good way to attach the struts together to cut further than 8-10'?

Unistrut is also available in 20' lengths, though it may be harder to find -- check your local metal supplier or electrical wholesaler.

 

[TSRuff]

I'm building some new slabbing rails out of extruded aluminum from 80/20. Yes, it is significantly more expensive than steel, but I have limited length capacity in my truck (5') and sometimes have to carry my equipment quite a distance into the woods (1/4 mile plus), so keeping the weight down is important.

I have designed mine with 1" x 3" vertical rails and 1" x 1" cross members in two 5' lengths that I can bolt together for a 10' rail. Since I am usually cutting 8-9' lengths I have enough space to let the saw idle and cool down after each cut.

I have also designed in a couple of improvements:

• Flip-down plates with screw holes to attach to the ends of the logs.
• Brackets so that after the initial cut I can flip the rails over and screw them into the log at either end. I prefer to use the rails for every cut, not just the first.
• Extendability... should I get a larger truck (8' capacity) or get serious about a timber framed cabin I can just order some longer rails to bolt in-between all of the components I already have.

I've got a SketchUp model somewhere around here. I'll track it down and attach a couple of pictures.

 

[BobL]

I asked the same question a while back and got a bunch of great replies and pictures.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=140538&page=2

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=141708

Also take a look in the "Milling 101" sticky

 

[Circle B MN]

They also make uni-strut couplers, as well as many other uni-strut compatable widgets....

 

[cowboyvet]

A little idea for everyone to check out looking to buy steel. We have a local welding shop here where I get my steel. They order it from a wholesaler by the truck load. They only charge me what it costs them to get it. Might take a week or two to get it but the price savings sure beats getting it from any of the places in business selling steel around here. You can also get the harder to find and longer length steel pretty easy. Downside is if you only want 5 feet, you might be stuck with a 20 foot stick, but I always find a use at some point.

 

[nrojay]

need your plans

Hi just reading these ideas i really like yours can you send me your design so that i can look at building it
I appreciate your help

I'm building some new slabbing rails out of extruded aluminum from 80/20. Yes, it is significantly more expensive than steel, but I have limited length capacity in my truck (5') and sometimes have to carry my equipment quite a distance into the woods (1/4 mile plus), so keeping the weight down is important.

I have designed mine with 1" x 3" vertical rails and 1" x 1" cross members in two 5' lengths that I can bolt together for a 10' rail. Since I am usually cutting 8-9' lengths I have enough space to let the saw idle and cool down after each cut.

I have also designed in a couple of improvements:

• Flip-down plates with screw holes to attach to the ends of the logs.
• Brackets so that after the initial cut I can flip the rails over and screw them into the log at either end. I prefer to use the rails for every cut, not just the first.
• Extendability... should I get a larger truck (8' capacity) or get serious about a timber framed cabin I can just order some longer rails to bolt in-between all of the components I already have.

I've got a SketchUp model somewhere around here. I'll track it down and attach a couple of pictures.

 

[scor440]

Used aluminum extension ladder off craigs list or ?

 

[FrankHgh]

your flags

They also make uni-strut couplers, as well as many other uni-strut compatable widgets....

i enjoy your flags, my dad is a marine, Survivor of the Chozin Reseviuor. 1-3-7. 3 silverstars 1 purple heart, promoted to inactive duty in 2000. Semper Fi

 

[rarefish383]

Used aluminum extension ladder off craigs list or ?

A friend gave me a little 20' extension ladder, two 10 foot sections. Left one piece on the farm, keep the other piece handy. I have another heavier one with two 12 foot sections. Then a couple years ago I bought a real heavy duty 42 foot ladder at an auction for $40. I actually bought it for a specific job, but I can always pull it apart if I need a 20 foot rail. The big one is over 150 LBS and a bear to use as a ladder. If I ever get started on my cabin I'll probably use it to cut 20 foot beams, skidding the beams to one spot to mill. Funny thing, when I bought the big ladder, the guy bidding against me bought all of the other aluminum ladders, for scrap. It's a shame when the value of the contents of an item is worth more than the item, Joe.