How do you heat your barn/shed/shop?

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Evanrude

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I'm going to be building a 30x40 pole barn very soon. Wondered what everyone uses to heat theirs. Quite a few guys around here use the Volgelzang barrel kits, but they've got a smaller area to heat than I will. I've seen a couple guys build their own as well. I'm planning on partitioning off an area for a man cave with a pool table, beer fridge, bar, whathaveya. More than likely, the smaller area will be used quite a lot more compared to the shop area, so I'm thinking two separate burners/heat sources. Thinking about making the barn 14', that way I can make the cave in the loft.
 
I'm going to be building a 30x40 pole barn very soon. Wondered what everyone uses to heat theirs. Quite a few guys around here use the Volgelzang barrel kits, but they've got a smaller area to heat than I will. I've seen a couple guys build their own as well. I'm planning on partitioning off an area for a man cave with a pool table, beer fridge, bar, whathaveya. More than likely, the smaller area will be used quite a lot more compared to the shop area, so I'm thinking two separate burners/heat sources. Thinking about making the barn 14', that way I can make the cave in the loft.

We use propane, yes propane, but Oil burners are very slick. If you can get motor oil in your area( small mechanics shops etc) you can get almost free heat. A few barrels a pump, electric to run the blower and pump on the furnace and that is all you pay for heat.
 
House and shop/garage all in a 60' x 104' building with radiant heat. Garage has 16' walls. Probably not what you are looking for though.
 
I'm going to be building a 30x40 pole barn very soon. Wondered what everyone uses to heat theirs. Quite a few guys around here use the Volgelzang barrel kits, but they've got a smaller area to heat than I will. I've seen a couple guys build their own as well. I'm planning on partitioning off an area for a man cave with a pool table, beer fridge, bar, whathaveya. More than likely, the smaller area will be used quite a lot more compared to the shop area, so I'm thinking two separate burners/heat sources. Thinking about making the barn 14', that way I can make the cave in the loft.

Better check your local building codes on the solid fuel in a shop...Might be a no, no...
 
I've got a seperate pump on my OWB that I can kick on w/ a heat exchanger w/ fan in my barn. I can get it to 60 in the winter. Wish i had the OWB when I put the barn up I'd have put radiant in the floors.
 
I'm going to be building a 30x40 pole barn very soon. Wondered what everyone uses to heat theirs. Quite a few guys around here use the Volgelzang barrel kits, but they've got a smaller area to heat than I will. I've seen a couple guys build their own as well. I'm planning on partitioning off an area for a man cave with a pool table, beer fridge, bar, whathaveya. More than likely, the smaller area will be used quite a lot more compared to the shop area, so I'm thinking two separate burners/heat sources. Thinking about making the barn 14', that way I can make the cave in the loft.

I have a 42 x 72 14' sidewalls i heat with a royal wood burner that sits outside in a 10 x 10 shed works great we call the the stove THE BEAVER because it loves WOOD
 
I have propane heat and a earth stove in my 40 x 25 garage. Two bays are open shop area and one bay is divided off into a wood shop. The earth stove will heat the entire shop if given enough time, but I usually just use the wood burner when I'm in the wood shop. The gas heat is quick and easy but the 500 gallon tank outside requires a second mortgage to top off.
Too bad you live up north, I got a old Johnson wood furnace sitting in my garage you could have for FREE. I used it in my 1500 sq ft house for a while but it kept running me out with it's high heat output. Got tired of hearing the CEO rattle on about the heat........you know the drill.
 
Well I have used double barrel heaters quite abit over the years and there isnt a cheaper easier way to heat they work great.

Imo the only drawback is they arent very safe atleast I dont feel they are, the bottoms and sides will rust out pretty fast unless you line them with steel or bricks and even then they only last a couple years in my experience.

I heat a 40x70 well insulated shop about 85% with a USS HotBlast 1400 series wood stove, I use natural gas overhead heater in the morning to take the chill off while the HB is warming up and shut the gas off.

I highly reccommend the USS HotBlast stove its the best money I have spent on heat since I started buying Husqvarna saws and its very safe well contained fire box.

Kansas
 
We have an OWB and heat my work shop (24x24) with a small automobile radiator in front of a box fan that is controlled by a line volatge thermostat. A fellow in town heats a large truck shop with a similar setup only his radiator is from a KW truck and uses a larger blower. Starting from scratch I think I would go with loops in the floor IF I was going to heat the building 24-7. One good thing about forced air is you can shut it down for a couple days if your not going to use the building, in floor heating is not so flexable.
 
I have a 30X60 shop, and I heat part of it with a double barreled stove as well.It heats the ####ens out of an area that I have walled off, 20X30.

Just remember the basics, no matter what you got to kick out the heat, it wont do much good without good insulation.May increase the cost of construction a good bit, but consider having someone come in and spray the foam insulation once the shop is up.My neighbor had his done, cost him a good bit, but he is able to heat his entire 30X48 shop with a single barrel wood stove burning good dry wood.
 
Hello,
The woodshop that I built is 24' by 32' with a room upstairs that is 12' by 20' for a man cave. I heat with a free standing Regency woodstove. Since I don't keep it continually heated, it usually takes a while to get it up to a comfortable temperature, particularly if you start out in the 30 degree or lower range !!! But it's fun !!!


Basso
 
consider having someone come in and spray the foam insulation once the shop is up.My neighbor had his done, cost him a good bit, but he is able to heat his entire 30X48 shop with a single barrel wood stove burning good dry wood.

I have two comments to add to that:

1. Spray urethane is EXPENSIVE, as in dollars per square foot.

2. If you don't drywall over the sprayed insulation, you make a nifty high temp crematorium out of your shed. Please read this link:
http://www.monolithic.com/stories/foam-chapter-05
An Upjohn engineer told me that a normal house burns at about 3500 F, maximum temperature. Fire temperatures within a urethane foam lined metal building will hit 10,000 F within 30 seconds.

Myself, being cheap and not wanting to see what 10,000 degrees feels like, I'd drywall it and blow in cellulose insulation.
 
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I just use an old Charter Oak wood stove (100 years old or so). It's the cats meow, but then I've just got a tiny little shop. Used to have a much larger shop when I lived in Montana, and I hope to build a large one again soon. I'm drooling over hearing you all talk about your 2800 sq. ft. shops. Someday..... I still plan to heat it with a simple wood stove, though.

An idea: One guy I knew set up a cheap little circulator - he rigged up a couple of thin plastic sheets to make a long narrow tube which hung from the ceiling down almost to the floor. They were about 8 inches in diameter. There was a small fan in the top of each one that blew the higher/hotter air back down to the floor, and he said it kept things in there quite comfortable with just a small heater.
 
My 20+ year old pole barn is 2200 sq ft with 9' ceilings finished with 5/8" drywall and blown in cellulose. An Earth stove heated it plus adjoining 1200 sq ft living area (also well insulated). I can't remember the exact amount of blown cellulose but it seems like we ran that blower for 3 full days. It's a lot of work and expense to finish the interior of a pole barn. If you plan to finish the ceiling be sure to get trusses designed to handle the extra weight. The one thing I'd change if building today would be to have foam insulation under the slab and a perimiter thermal break.
 
most wood forced air home furnaces work fine for heating an average sized shop,now for my 24x25 building i use a NC13 englander wit ha box fan behind it ,gets her up to 78 degrees on cold days if left running ,barrel stoves heat okay but are super inefficient and use twice the wood of any modern stove.
 
My Taylor OWB heats my house and barn. Installed a use air handler, heat exchange, pump, and thermostat for $600.00. Underground lines were free.

I screen print in the barn, and couldn't be happier with the whole set up. Dogs kinda like it to.....
 
garage is seperate from house.

double doorFisher does a great job.sometimes too good.
 
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