Checked my door gasket this fall and seemed ok and would be the start of my third season with this stove. Noticed lately a little higher flue temps and thought it was the better wood I have been using, but shut the lights down and can see pin holes of light coming from the door gasket. What is your way of changing the gasket? How long do you get out of yours? I think the high temp sealant I got says 8 hours before use. Plan on changing it tonight and just wanted to see what people are doing. Thanks
How Do YOU Replace The Door Gasket On YOUR Stove And When?
- Thread starter ancy
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ponyexpress976
nipple fritters
Didn't have to replace mine but I did have to re-glue it. Just a wire brush to get the old stuff off. Then squirt in the goo, shut the door and wait.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi Andy,
If you are seeing light, you should replace it. I like to feel the gasket compress a little when closing the door.
Pull and scrape out the old gasket.
Wear a mask and put a wire wheel on a drill or an angle grinder with a wire wheel and completely clean out the old residue.
Put a bead in the groove and re-install the gasket. Be careful the ends meet exactly. It wouldn't hurt if the metal is warm, use a heat gun spraingly or hair dryer.
I am too lazy to go get the instructions now, but after a couple hours start a very small fire in the stove and let it cure a few more hours.
The most important thing is to get all the old sealant out.
If you are seeing light, you should replace it. I like to feel the gasket compress a little when closing the door.
Pull and scrape out the old gasket.
Wear a mask and put a wire wheel on a drill or an angle grinder with a wire wheel and completely clean out the old residue.
Put a bead in the groove and re-install the gasket. Be careful the ends meet exactly. It wouldn't hurt if the metal is warm, use a heat gun spraingly or hair dryer.
I am too lazy to go get the instructions now, but after a couple hours start a very small fire in the stove and let it cure a few more hours.
The most important thing is to get all the old sealant out.
mga
wandering
instead of using the "rope" for seals, i've been looking into tadpole seals.
you can get them in different thicknesses and different temperature grades...some extremely high.
i emailed several companies about it, but i never heard back from them. wtf.
Tadpole Seals - Gaskets, Inc.
you can get them in different thicknesses and different temperature grades...some extremely high.
i emailed several companies about it, but i never heard back from them. wtf.
Tadpole Seals - Gaskets, Inc.
fordss
ArboristSite Member
seals
My fisher that I got this year does not need a door seal, but my old stove did. Door seal is cheap at my local store so I would replace mine every year just so it would not fail in the middle of the burn season and I would not have any down time as I heat 100% with wood.
My fisher that I got this year does not need a door seal, but my old stove did. Door seal is cheap at my local store so I would replace mine every year just so it would not fail in the middle of the burn season and I would not have any down time as I heat 100% with wood.
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do an AS search for gaskets. You'll find the "dollar bill" (new is better) test: close the door or damper on the bill around the gasket. If the bill slips out anywhere, replace the gasket. Do not use larger denominations such as $20.'s; I tore one in half and got yelled at by SWMBO.:bang:
Using the gasket cement ( called "water glass"), use as little as possible. As said, be sure the groove is clean; I use worn chainsaw files, scraping the groove with the file end or tip. If you can, the wire wheel or grinder head can work IF you can get it into the groove ( not possible inside the stove on a damper in a cat stove for example).
Best gaskets are the high density ones from dealers. Cheap big box soft gaskets are not worth the $$$. For older stoves where the surfaces or cast has slightly deformed, use a slightly larger dia. gasket.
For our 2 stoves, gaskets are checked and replaced if needed every late spring when the flues are brushed. I use a "smoke bomb" ( HVAC ) to check the plate seams of both cast stoves.
Messy, but simple job that saves wood and overfiring.
Using the gasket cement ( called "water glass"), use as little as possible. As said, be sure the groove is clean; I use worn chainsaw files, scraping the groove with the file end or tip. If you can, the wire wheel or grinder head can work IF you can get it into the groove ( not possible inside the stove on a damper in a cat stove for example).
Best gaskets are the high density ones from dealers. Cheap big box soft gaskets are not worth the $$$. For older stoves where the surfaces or cast has slightly deformed, use a slightly larger dia. gasket.
For our 2 stoves, gaskets are checked and replaced if needed every late spring when the flues are brushed. I use a "smoke bomb" ( HVAC ) to check the plate seams of both cast stoves.
Messy, but simple job that saves wood and overfiring.
4b316
ArboristSite Lurker
tadpole gasket
I got my tadpole gasket from this guy. Taylor Outside wood stove Parts,Quest Pipe, Fittings,Blowers,Chemicals,Heat Exchangers,Insulation,Repair parts, Gave me plenty of gasket and rivets.Arrived in two days.Nice gasket
I got my tadpole gasket from this guy. Taylor Outside wood stove Parts,Quest Pipe, Fittings,Blowers,Chemicals,Heat Exchangers,Insulation,Repair parts, Gave me plenty of gasket and rivets.Arrived in two days.Nice gasket
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