How to get Poulan 245A spur sprocket off WITHOUT tool?

[cobey]

Yep me too, I got a box of that stuff I have made over the years.

That is why I suggested making one with the flat bar, not hard to do at all.

My little welder has paid for itself many times over

 

[Modifiedmark]

My little welder has paid for itself many times over

I hear ya, here is a ugly 3 pin one I threw together in a hurry for a Echo.

 

[cobey]

I hear ya, here is a ugly 3 pin one I threw together in a hurry for a Echo. View attachment 468897

Sweet

 

[user 119840]

Mark, those closest to me didn't have it. But I will check as I travel up north if they got one up there.

 

[67L36Driver]

Put two twist drills in your bench vice shank end up that fit tightly in the holes. Block the piston with a rectangular scrap of soft wood.

Hold the clutch and turn the saw.

On Homelites w/3 holes, I tap them to 1/4-20 and thread in socket head cap screws to hit with a BFH and bronze punch. Remingtons use the same style clutch.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thats a good idea Carl. I had forgot about that trick and have done it before, but my results were broken drill bits...

 

[67L36Driver]

Thats a good idea Carl. I had forgot about that trick and have done it before, but my results were broken drill bits...

Shank end up & just enuff to get in the holes 1/4" plus minus.

 

[67L36Driver]

My Homelite/Fairbanks Morse trick.


The holes are drilled/tapped for 1/4"-20.

Often quicker to use the saw's inertia & compression than block the piston.

One thing I like with the newer saws is the 3/4" hex provided.

 

[chrisbird]

Coby it will look like this, not much there to hammer on. You can see the holes in this one are a bit distorted from someone removing it with a punch and hammer. View attachment 468894

looks to me as if the wrong hole is oblong like trying to take it off and just putting it on tighter. Try turning it to the RIGHT to take it off.

 

[Modifiedmark]

looks to me as if the wrong hole is oblong like trying to take it off and just putting it on tighter. Try turning it to the RIGHT to take it off.

Did you ever think they might have beat on that side to tighten it up when they put it back on? Just sayin..

 

[user 119840]

Got the clutch off with two screwdrivers that just fits into the holes, and a large extender to one of my tools, looks like this:

 

[Little Al]

Not very easy to do without the tool and I don't like to see it done that way. Your clutch spider is the round flat one with 2 holes in it correct?

I understand where your at, it might not be easy to get the tool but you can make one pretty easily.

Take a piece of steel flat bar about 3/16"- 1/4" thick, about a foot long, drill two holes in one end of it to match the holes in the clutch spider and put 2 hard pins in the flat bar.

You now have a pin wrench to take the clutch off. You will have to block the piston from moving, I remove the spark plug and insert a piece of starter rope with knots tied in it every few inches. The clutch comes off clockwise.

I 've used a short piece of bar drilled for the pins & welded a nut on the other side in the centre between the pins socket to fit the nut & a quick burp clockwise with the impact gun

 

[nk14zp]

A quick question: Can I do this without the Poulan tool for this? A flathead screwdriver and a hammer didn't seem to do it... or maybe I'm wrong?

Tannerite.(sp)

 

[Okie]

You can usually get that tool from flea bay for a few dollars and fast shipping. As stated remove the spark plug and insert a rope with the piston slightly down from TDC so as the rope won't get caught in the ex port.

I've got a big box of labeled tools I've made over the years. That tool could be made in little while if you are a piddler.
The tool will also fit other Poulans and some craftsman.
Hammering on that could even bend the crank, weaken or ruin thecrank bearing or bushing or crack the case.
Poulans need to be handled with care anyway, they are kinda wimpy made.

 

[hotshot]

Or just modify a metric crescent wrench...

 

[user 119840]

I won't hammer ever again on my saw to get something loose or tightened. But I made that decision a quite a while ago actually. I don't like hitting my saw when it's not needed and can be solved so much easier than beating it. But I did it now. It's assembled again. As said before, last time I hammered on it, since then, I've used and run the saw without any problems whatsoever. Not saying I will hammer on it again, ever.