How to keep steel temper while sharpening?

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Not kidding, but From 1988 to 1990 I worked in the US as a cosmochemist (researching presolar grains in carbonaceous meteorites that contained nanodiamonds). I was not working for NASA but my salary was funded by NASA. I never thought the stuff I learned there would have anything to do with chainsaws.

Was not that work like looking for the origin of life?
 
Although it IS the softer metals that give the stones fit because the softer steel "gums up" too much...a simple scrub with water and a toothbrush clean right out and it's ready to go.

And if the hand tool diamond "stone" is extra gummy, a quick scrub with water and comet cleaner (w/old toothbrush) and a quick rinse restores it to clean.

A trick to have a DMT type sharpening stone work like it is much finer is to use a drop of dishwasing detergent in a ittle water to lube while you are lapping.

I generaly have no bluing at all when I sharpen a chain unless I either don't dress the wheel often enough of get in too much a hurry (too much pressure). The finer the wheel, the more careful you need to be.

Good light, comfortable stool.
 
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Not kidding, but From 1988 to 1990 I worked in the US as a cosmochemist (researching presolar grains in carbonaceous meteorites that contained nanodiamonds). I was not working for NASA but my salary was funded by NASA. I never thought the stuff I learned there would have anything to do with chainsaws.

Mother of god...I was only kidding about NASA!

Nope - its presolar, so before the solar system [earth sun moon etc] was even formed. It's more about how the nuclear physics of how elements are forged inside stars, the technical term is nucleosynthesis.

Legendary stuff Bob :clap:
Nobody on here should argue with you ever again after finding that out!
From now on you shall be known as the "Metallurgy Go To Fella".
 
Mother of god...I was only kidding about NASA!
Legendary stuff Bob :clap:
Nobody on here should argue with you ever again after finding that out!
From now on you shall be known as the "Metallurgy Go To Fella".

Hey, I really know very little, however, what I can do is read and understand the metallurgical technical reports and scientific papers etc. Although I have hardened and tempered a few dozen blades, knives, and wood working tools I actually don't have a lot of hands on experience in metallurgy. The most hands on experience I've had was making these wood working tools from scratch.

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They are called plane makers floats for making old fashioned wooden planes. I milled the shape and cut the teeth on a metal mill and then hardened and tempered the blades in a small furnace. The handles are turned from wood I milled from a 120 year old apricot tree. The brass bits I made at home mainly using a belt sander. These tools are really nice to use.

I only wish I knew as much about metallurgy and chainsaws as I do about some of the other stuff I know.
 
. . use "cool grind" and "peck". .
The 'Cool Grind' should show at the bottom of the page, in the link
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?CatID=153&skw=grinding

I am curious to hear from A.S. members who have tried or use Cool Grind on a regular basis. What are the advantages? Can you grind more aggressively without overheating? How often do you apply it? Any other comments on it would be appreciated.

The CBN wheels sound great, but out of my $$$ range.

Thanks.

Philbert
 
You lay it on every few cutters. After a while the wheel builds up a thick coating and you need less. You can be a bit more aggressive but in general it just helps with burrs and over heatings. We used it on all chain while using stone wheels. Now with CBN, no need.
 
To resurrect an old thread found after a big search...

Does anyone know the temperature where the temper of good chain can be spoiled?
Kind of a curiousity–I'm curious both for sharpening with a grinder and for the chains that hang some distance behind my shop woodstove.

And if anyone can give an explanation for or link to "case hardening" or whatever it is with grinder sharpening making for harden edges that are a bear to sharpening by file...I'd be thankful. I was given a dozen or so looong loops of Stihl chain that is in such condition. A few hand sharpenings gets past the worst of it.

Thanks all!
 
And if anyone can give an explanation for or link to "case hardening" or whatever it is with grinder sharpening making for harden edges that are a bear to sharpening by file...I'd be thankful.
Zach,

The thin edges get heated up by the grinding wheel, then cool rapidly in air. An ‘air quench’. This occurs especially when the grinding wheel is dull, and rubbing against the cutter, instead of scraping it. EDIT: this should not happen with proper grinding technique and a dressed grinding wheel that exposes fresh, sharp, abrasive.

This normally only affects the surface of the cutter, but files will slip over it, like a buttered knife on glass.

Normally, this thin layer can be ground through with a well-dressed wheel, and the cutter can be hand filed once again.

Philbert
 
I used to use a mixture of coolant from a hand pump oiling can. As soon as tooth is ground hit it with some coolant. I would think Philbert would have some expertise in this. If the tooth needed a lot of grinding a couple of squirts keeps it from bluing. thanks
 
I used to use a mixture of coolant from a hand pump oiling can. As soon as tooth is ground hit it with some coolant. I would think Philbert would have some expertise in this. If the tooth needed a lot of grinding a couple of squirts keeps it from bluing. thanks
They don't recommend using coolant on most of these grinders: the liquid is not compatible with the electric motor, or the grinding wheels supplied. I suppose a damp rag could be used to cool the tooth.

Good grinding technique should eliminate the overheating that causes this:
- use good quality wheels (the finer ones over heat faster IMO);
- use lots of light 'taps''
- dress the wheels frequently to constantly expose fresh abrasive.

If people still have trouble, they can try the resinoid type wheels, which are a little more forgiving:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/
Philbert
 
You probably don't end up with softer teeth but with much harder teeth. Saw chain saw when heated seems to air harden to the point where I can barely hand file it the next time. Use a grinding compound and a very light touch. I still prefer hand filing.
It seems like I have seen that happen in hard dry wood ,once in a while I see a chain that would take to a filing resist after that.
 
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