How To Remove Aluminum Transfer Without Acid

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That's a good question, Sunfish. I have a husky 55 cylinder that turned out about like that and I've been curious. I need to find a old, abandoned 55 to test it out on.



This 357xp cylinder was questionable, so figured I'd give it a shot. Removed a little platting around the exhaust port. Is this goin to be a problem?

 
I have had that happen on a couple cylinders. I usually use my foredom to take the exhaust down a few degrees and re-bevel the edge so it won't peel. Is this good??? probably messes with the power band a little but I feel better knowing it has less chance of shredding a new $40+ piston.

Am I wrong? Randy??? thoughts?
 
I have had that happen on a couple cylinders. I usually use my foredom to take the exhaust down a few degrees and re-bevel the edge so it won't peel. Is this good??? probably messes with the power band a little but I feel better knowing it has less chance of shredding a new $40+ piston.

Am I wrong? Randy??? thoughts?

As long as it doesn't free port, and it runs. Well.......that's a hell of a lot better than pitching a jug in the trash.
 
As long as it doesn't free port, and it runs. Well.......that's a hell of a lot better than pitching a jug in the trash.
where would that affect power in the saw? I know raising the top of the exhaust gives more RPM and less torque and vice versa for lowering it... What does lowering the floor of the exhaust do???

Just trying to learn more...
 
The top of the port is not much concern, as I probably have room to raise it enough to clear the problem. The jug will be lowered any way.

The bottom of the port is where the concern is, as I wouldn't want to grind any out of there. We'll see how close to bottom of the skirt is to it.
 
The top of the port is not much concern, as I probably have room to raise it enough to clear the problem. The jug will be lowered any way.

The bottom of the port is where the concern is, as I wouldn't want to grind any out of there. We'll see how close to bottom of the skirt is to it.
I have a small jar of machine bluing that has a small "nail brush" attached to the lid. I will probably use that to mark the bottom of the skirt at TDC with cylinder in it's final position to see how much skirt I have left to play with. I figure I can pull the jug once the bluing is dried and I know exactly how much is left.

Randy,
How much overlap should one leave on the bottom of a piston skirt? I would assume you probably want 0.075-0.10" or more to keep the skirt closed against the cylinder wall???
 
I just look at it thru the exhaust port Nathan. If it is covering at all it will be fine.
I was just saying that would be a good way to "pre-check" to make sure you have room to take the bottom of the exhaust down. Grinding first and checking later might end up in a free porting situation. Also you probably don't want to be so close to free porting that you catch the bottom of the skirt on the exhaust. Very unlikely, but better safe than sorry i guess...
 
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