How To Remove Aluminum Transfer Without Acid

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@Mastermind thanks for this thread, your guidance, tutelage over the phone, and your friendship.

I picked up this 55 Rancher project for $20, as my first actual rebuild project.
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I knew it had low compression so I figured I'd go ahead, and dig in.
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Yep, not gonna keep that piston. Meteor is on its way from www.sawsalvage.com

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Exhaust side as removed from saw.

I lack the fancy tools, so I made some mandrels from wooden dowel material I found in one of my wife's craft bins, and used my corded hand drill. I also took the advice of @Four Paws and purchased an assortment pack of automotive sandpaper. I started with 180 to remove the bulk of the transfer, and then switched to 320 grit for smoothing. I still need to finish with a Red Scotchbrite pad.
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Yep. Looks good. Now he needs to do this to keep it from happening again....after replacing the impulse tube, intake boot, and seals, (of course). I just assemble the intake components on these with the only fasteners being the two that secure the flange to the case. This is the weak spot on these saws. Some blame the threads in the plastic and the carb screws for the intake leak issue, but I've never found a leak between the carb and the flange even with the carb only moderately tightened to the assembly. The press fit of the components in the pic are almost always to blame for the intake leaks on this series...usually the impulse tube shrinking or the intake boot simply hardening or cracking. Another common problem is the impulse tube getting pinched when the connecting tube from the flange isn't centered when inserted which creates a slight pinch or fold at the connection during reassembly. Been there, done that.

Sorry for sidetracking the thread, but if you're gonna take the time to clean up a cylinder by any method, ya sure as hell don't wanna hafta just turn around and do it again cuz ya didn't take the time to figure out what burned it up in the first place. And I know I'm preachin' to the choir here for the most part, but for you guys who haven't got yourselves a vac/pressure test setup yet, do yourselves a huge favor and get one. It'll pay for itself the first time it saves you from burning up another top end.

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What's the best way to remove it from a piston? Mastermind could I just use the same technique you used. Like with find sandpaper lightly sand it away. I wouldn't want to go to far and make the piston worse. Can you even save Pistons like this. I've always just replaced them. I've ordered a new piston and a hone to clean up the jug. It's like smooth a butter. But I would like to get more life outta this one. Thanks all
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Thanks everyone I'll use a new piston ring and some very fine paper to remove the transfer from the piston. The cylinder is so smooth (no cross hatching)
So I'll need to hone it. Is there another way to do this like at the end of your YouTube video mastermind?

Btw I've watched every video on your YouTube channel mastermind. Love your work and the knowledge you and others are happy to share ✌️
 
Thanks everyone I'll use a new piston ring and some very fine paper to remove the transfer from the piston. The cylinder is so smooth (no cross hatching)
So I'll need to hone it. Is there another way to do this like at the end of your YouTube video mastermind?

Btw I've watched every video on your YouTube channel mastermind. Love your work and the knowledge you and others are happy to share ✌️

Don't hone it......just scuff it a little with say 320 grit......by hand. Smooth bores aren't a bad thing on these type cylinders.

So what would you guys look for as a 'no-go' on a piston, say for just a functional saw?

Ring trapped in groove? Missing chunks? Deep grooves? Other?

I ask, because I have heard of pistons replaced due to 'skirt wear'.

Thanks.

Philbert

I'm sure you noticed that his piston had all the machine marks on it.....is was just scored in some isolated areas. That's why I would save it and reuse it. Now in a customers saw, or a saw I was planning to sell, I would get a new piston. But that piston will run fine.....

If the skirts are worn badly.......replace.

Deep grooves? Trash can.......
 
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Don't hone it......just scuff it a little with say 320 grit......by hand. Smooth bores aren't a bad thing on these type cylinders.



I'm sure you noticed that his piston had all the machine marks on it.....is was just scored in some isolated areas. That's why I would save it and reuse it. Now in a customers saw, or a saw I was planning to sell, I would get a new piston. But that piston will run fine.....

If the skirts are worn badly.......replace.

Deep grooves? Trash can.......


I cleaned up the piston today needs more work still thought I would show to make sure I haven't f&$ked it. And I've got 400 grit I'll use that to touch up the cylinder and go over the piston after I remore the transfer off
 
Instead of typing with your big ol' fat thumbs, you should try using your skinny ass legs.

It might work more better, and stuff.

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