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Husky 50 special carburetor problem

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by mayor, Dec 9, 2007.

  1. mayor

    mayor ArboristSite Member

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    Hey gang...after buying the MS361 for the bigger stuff...and I have a 36 husky all redone for the smaller stuff.....I need my 50 special running again for the medium stuff!!! hehehe....I've had one chainsaw for 15 er 20 years...and now I get one this site and look what's happening already...geesh.

    Anyway......My old 50 special still runs great with lots of power....but I'm having a hard time starting it and once started, it aint idling!.....I just put a new carb kit in the saw....but the local small engine guy seems too think that the adjusting screw seats are scratched and not letting the adjusters work properly.....at 64 bucks and hour..he aint gonna work on my saw.
    Once I start the saw....it runs great while cutting...but if I sit it down and let it idle down properly...it dies and wont restart...kinda like its flooded. I can turn the high screw all the way back in and in about a dozen pulls the saw will start and run fine...I do hafta turn the screw back out pretty quick before she runs outta fuel though, and adjust the wide open throttle...then it will cut fine as long as the saw is running...shut it off...same thing all over again.

    Whatchallthink?

    I just put on a new recoil side case, breather, plug, bar and two chains right before it started giving me prob.s
    That was the reason I bought the new ms361 but I'd still like too get my old saw back running right again.
     
  2. Uwharrie

    Uwharrie ArboristSite Operative

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    Hi Mayor, The problem you are describing comes from fuel leaking by the inlet needle ( the one under the lever that has a rubber or viron tip on it ). This can be caused by trash under the needle or a bad needle valve. Also it can be caused by an old diaphragm that is hard but I suspect you replaced it with a new one. And the last thing it could be in an incorrect setting of the lever. You will need to set the lever according to which carb you have. This varies with brands and models of carbs.
    Tony
     
  3. sugarbush

    sugarbush AboristSite Guru

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    may be as the post above but pull the muffler and check for scoring, if scored or low compresson won't get a complete burn. have you tried turning in the low jet?
     
  4. mayor

    mayor ArboristSite Member

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    low jet has been adjusted in and out also.....it will change the way the saw runs, but is not adjusting the saw so it will idle...once the saw is running, I've got the idle set screw adjusted up so it runs well above idle. It still seems too have good compression and repsonds well too throttling.....plenty of power cutting.....just seems too be loading up at or above idle and choking itself too death.
    I installed the carb kit I picked up from the dealer up the road...it seemed too be a universal kit with parts too fit several models of saws.....the needle valve was replaced with the one in the kit....but the old one had the black rubber tip and the new one seemed too be all steel.....someone told me that the end may have looked like steel but actually was a silver rubber type tip????? I really didnt check the needle that close before installing it so I'm not sure if it was or not.

    I guess I'm gonna hafta take everything back apart and check closer...also, I'll check out the cylinder and see what things looks like in there.
     
  5. HiOctane

    HiOctane Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The tip HAS to be some kind of rubber because the seat is metal.The lever must be flush with the carb body.If you still have problem,try the saw wéo the air filter.It could be blocked letting the saw running richer,worst at idle.
     

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