Husky 545 rebuild (Absolute rookie)

[HuckleberrySven]

Howdy fellas, please excuse my ignorance on a lot of this stuff but I'm trying to learn. I've read many threads and lots of stickies but I may have missed what I'm looking for.

Through a series of unfortunate things, like it being my first saw and 10 cords of wood in a day, it leaned out too much and fragged the P&C.

Using Mastermind's method, I've removed the vast majority of atomized aluminum from my cylinder and plan on ordering a replacement piston and cylinder gasket shortly.

While I have the beast apart, is there anything else I should check to insure that I am not throwin time and money at a basket case? Best brand for aftermarket piston? How in the world do I check squish?

It is 2013 production but not the -1 and since I can't find any screws to adjust on the carb (there are electronic doohickies) I'm guessing it's an auto tune. The case simply says 545 and I use it at 5000 ft if anyone is interested in the specifics.

 

[blsnelling]

That's an Autotune saw. They adjust themselves. How did it lean out?

 

[HuckleberrySven]

I have no idea. The mix was good, I use a graduated cylinder for measuring my 2 stroke.

When I took the cylinder off, I noticed that a small rubber nipple from the transfer port cover gasket was dangling by a thread but I don't have the security torx to remove the covers and check... yet.
I was hoping someone had a list of common leaks that these things develop if they are model specific.

Doing some reading I've found that they did update those covers/gaskets in late 2015.

The saw worked amazing for 9 cords of wood, on the 10th it started to speed up and get too hot to hold. I shut it down and let it cool off while I sharpened the blade. When I started it again, it wouldn't run at idle and had no power/bogged down at high rpm. 60 lbs of compression per the small engine repair shop and "unfixable" with a 38 dollar diagnostic fee. They took off the muffler, looked inside, and said "nope"!

 

[Andyshine77]

The transfer covers are known to leak do to deformed gaskets, this supposedly has been taken care of with some up dates. Last I heard the only way to get new gaskets is to buy a complete top end. If you decide to replace the top end you'll need to preform a vacuum/pressure test on the case to prevent the exact same thing from happening again.

To be honest this rebuild sounds like it may be a bit beyond your know how. If you're dead set on doing this yourself, educate yourself as best you can by reading rebuild threads and asking questions when you hit a wall.

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[HuckleberrySven]

Thank you Andy, I'm here because the subject matter experts are here and I like to talk to people who know.

I'm also a decent shade tree mechanic, this is just my first foray into chainsaws. The theories remain the same on a smaller scale. Besides, how will I ever learn if I don't do it myself?

Edit to add: Looking at Mastermind's "this pisses me off" post, one of my seals looks exactly like the first one pictured with the nipple dangling. Probably one of the problems.

 

[Andyshine77]

The basics are the same, but 2 cycles are different enough to cause some headaches if you're familiar with the differences.

These AT saws are going through constant changes. I have a 2013 550 that runs OK but I can see the seal tang sticking out, only a matter of time before it fails, into the river it goes when that happens.

If this saw means something to you, or you just want to learn, by all means repair it. If that's not the case one has to weight the cost benefit of fixing the saw, to just cutting your losses and getting something else.

 

[HuckleberrySven]

I picked up a JR CS 2250 S for my wife to use while I'm out of town. I travel for work and live in a 15 foot travel trailer. No tv, just a phone for Internet connection so in my off time, I gotta have something to do! This saw is gonna either run right or surreptitiously be placed in a dumpster at night.

I got the transfer port cover off and yep, leak. It's amazing how many of the tools in my shop would be useful right now. Calipers, pressure testing equipment. I won't see that stuff for another few months so I'm gonna start cobbling stuff together.
Southwest Ks is not exactly chainsaw mecca so its time to improvise.

Anyone know the diameter and length on the transfer port cover gaskets?

 

[Andyshine77]

Was the seal deformed and out of place? Really a leak/pressure test should have been preform before you dissembled the saw. That way you'll know exactly where the leak or leaks are. Not sure if the gaskets have to be molded or not, but I'm pretty sure I'd go with new oem there. Cutting corners will get you back to where you started in a hurry.

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[HuckleberrySven]

The seal was in place with minimal deformation, just what looks like flashing around the corners. The leak was at the exposed tang, as you called it. There was a 2mm gap starting halfway through the tang, approx 10mm of what looked like oil residue to both sides of the gap on the outside of the seal. It was leaking at some point.

Several posts here have stated that you can use a high temp liquid gasket that's Chem rated to enhance the stock o-ring and seal it. I plan to to a full pressure/vac test before firing it back up to verify integrity. I've got nothing but time.

If I want to go OEM, from what I've read, I have to buy an entire new cylinder. That's not in my budget so I'll just tinker and learn. Thank you for your input so far.

 

[Andyshine77]

Oil on the gasket is normal. Yes Hondabond or similar will aid in making a good seal. Stupid cost cutting design IMHO, husky simply added more places for possible ail leaks.

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[HuckleberrySven]

Oil on the outside of the gasket, away from the mating surface and localized to the tang area is normal?

Also, what is the purpose of the damn tang? Is there a function for a free floating piece of rubber that I'm missing?

 

[Andyshine77]

OK that seal is not going to work lol. Oil oozing out is not a good sign.

The extra piece or tang is just from the molding process, I believe the new seals don't have the extra material.

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[HuckleberrySven]

I could believe it was part of the molding process... if there wasn't a relief cut on the cover placed specifically where the tang goes. It was on purpose and it was retarded.

Perhaps it's a positive control/ease of assembly/bone the customer "feature"

 

[Andyshine77]

If there is a cutout, than I would agree it for assembly reasons,and no not the best idea. After looking at the pics closer, the seal looks poorly formed and likely never sealed properly, IMHO this is a manufacturer flaw and Husqvarna owes you a new top end on the the house, even if the saw is out of warranty. I would try contacting one of the reputable dealers on this site, or Husqvarna directly. Without a good dealer backing you Up, Husky will try to blame you for the failure, that's where a good dealer comes into play. You shouldn't have to spend a dime to get this saw up and running IMHO.

 

[HuckleberrySven]

Bear with my insanity a minute. The cover is aluminum, the cylinder is aluminum. The only reason the cover exists is because the manufacturing process can't make that passage sealed up.

Why not tig weld these on there and be done with it?

 

[Andyshine77]

Bear with my insanity a minute. The cover is aluminum, the cylinder is aluminum. The only reason the cover exists is because the manufacturing process can't make that passage sealed up.

Why not tig weld these on there and be done with it?

Most cylinders have the transfers cast into the cylinder. But doing this is more complex and increases the cost of each cylinder. IMHO Husqvarna saved some money by making cylinders with the goofy caps. You see the older lower end saws like a 353, has a cylinder made in-house with transfer covers, the more expensive 346 has a high end cylinder with cast in transfers. Husky went cheap with it's new saws IMHO.

 

[HuckleberrySven]

As I'm new here Andy and only know you (ish) so far. Do you have any recommendations for dealers to talk to?

Is there a husky signal I need to light or a sexy broken saw dance I need to do to entice them?

 

[Andyshine77]

We have quite a few good dealers here that may be able to assist you. Spike60 and Tlandrum are two of the top bogs around here, both are knowledgeable and offer more than fair pricing on parts if you need them.

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[smokey7]

I don't know about you guys but I definitely see a crack in that old ring.

 

[7sleeper]

Same here! I understand that these seals are not available from Husqvarna, but how about checking out a o-ring in the same size and just bending it to the correct fit and slowly lock down the screws while holding it in place. You probably need a helper.

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