smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
I usually put Moto seal in the cracked area let it firm up some then smear some over the whole o ring and tighten it down
Husky 545 rebuild (Absolute rookie)
- Thread starter HuckleberrySven
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HuckleberrySven
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, per a dealer, the recommended repair procedure is to add 3 bond to the original seal and replace. If I replace the O ring, I'm gonna need to get a max temp in that area to spec out a proper replacement.
I'm still thinking about tig welding it...
If I do use 3 bond or Moto to seal it, would it behoove me to do the opposite seal as a prophylactic measure?
I'm still thinking about tig welding it...
If I do use 3 bond or Moto to seal it, would it behoove me to do the opposite seal as a prophylactic measure?
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I might be wrong but we are speaking about "intake side" of the cylinder, not exhuast side. But if I rethink it the collegues who recommended a proper engine sealent are more right than my idea...
7
You have the cylinder off, so yes I'd seal up both. Not sure these sealants were meant to seal gaps that large, but I've never tried it, so.
smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
That'd be why I let it set up some. I kinda make a small bead filling the gap. Let it set a hour or until I like how it feels. Then coat the whole o ring and screw it down.
No doubt, I always try and let the sealants set up before use, even though it's not always necessary.
HuckleberrySven
ArboristSite Lurker
I was wondering about the gap myself. Then I noticed that I had an unused piece of rubber just dangling off the other side. I'll clip a small piece off the opposite tang, since I know for a fact that it's useless and bridge the gap. Then strengthen whole deal with 3bond and call that part good.
Unless I'm going blind, that o-ring is broken in half. You'll never get a good seal trying to use that.
HuckleberrySven
ArboristSite Lurker
It has 2 longitudinal rips, one at the top and one on non bearing side to the right.
The spot where the tang normally is...isnt.
The info I have so far states to cover the original seal in 3bond and that's Husky's fix. I agree that it's assed up and retarded but the other 2 options I have are a new OEM cylinder, or part it out. One costs me 40 bucks, one costs 250, and one is a crapshoot.
Final option is to tig them on permanently. I have no idea how cast AL will react to that though.
The spot where the tang normally is...isnt.
The info I have so far states to cover the original seal in 3bond and that's Husky's fix. I agree that it's assed up and retarded but the other 2 options I have are a new OEM cylinder, or part it out. One costs me 40 bucks, one costs 250, and one is a crapshoot.
Final option is to tig them on permanently. I have no idea how cast AL will react to that though.
I see the metal of the cover through the gap in the o-ring. Surely someone has a toasted topend they could rob the seal from for you.
HuckleberrySven
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes, there is a 2mm gap in the ring. My plan, as shoddy and half assed as it is, is to bridge the gap with gasket material from the other side, eliminating the gap. Then 3bond over the top and in any crevices before remounting.
Stolen gasket material will be from the appendix of the opposite gasket.
Stolen gasket material will be from the appendix of the opposite gasket.
I have to agree with Brad, as I said the sealant really isn't meant to fill voids or glue piece together like that, it will probably leak again IMHO. Did you contact Husqvarna? This is a clear manufacturer defect and you should get replacement parts at no cost to you.
That's not likely to work. When Husky recommends sealant it's to reuse a good seal, not fix one that's broken in half.
HuckleberrySven
ArboristSite Lurker
I'll call them today and see what they say.
