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Husq 359 Sprocket Drive Question

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by GA_Boy, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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    Got a noobie question for you guys. I just finished rebuilding a burned up 359 with a new piston & ring and had to use muriatic acid to get the smeared alum. off the cylinder walls.

    My question is i already have a spare 18" B&C w/ .325 pitch that i want to use on the saw but the drive sprocket is a 3/8. Would it be cheaper to get a new drive sprocket OR a new chain and would i be able to use the 3/8ths chain on my existing bar.
    I'm also confused about changing the drive sprocket; when you change the drive sprocket do you have to change the clutch drum and oiler drive as well?
    Sorry for the noobie questions but it's the one area i haven't been able to find detailed information about.
     
  2. blsnelling

    blsnelling Site Sponsor

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    Welcome to the forum. A 60cc usually wears a 3/8 B&C. Check out Baileys for your parts needs.
     
  3. timberwolf

    timberwolf Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You can just change the rim, the oiler and drum are fine.

    Rim is cheaper than chain, but both are parts that wear out so no waste in having an extra of either.
     
  4. sunfish

    sunfish Fish Head

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    .325 bar must run .325 chain.

    Do you have a removable drive rim on the sprocket? If so just get a .325 rim.
    This is the way most Huskys' are.

    If you have a one piece clutch drum / drive sprocket, you'll need to replace it.
     
  5. nmurph

    nmurph ArboristSite.com Sponsor

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    i would replace the sprocket with a 7 pin 3/8's. remember, the clutch thread is left-handed!! i have never seen a clutch drum on these saws that didn't have the replaceable sprocket, but they may have used a one-piece drum on some saws.
    why did the piston/cylinder fail? this series of saws has a known defect in the insulation wall that causes an air leak. the replacement part is only a few bucks. the affected models covered several years.
    there is also a known problem with the carbs on many of these same saws. but most people have problems with lack of top-end power. the replacement carb is a zama and costs about $50 from baileys.
    where abouts in georgia are you from?
     
  6. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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    Thanks everyone, looks like i'll just get a .325 rim and be done with it. Yes, it's a removeable rim sprocket off of the clutch drum.
    Here's the IPL http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=husqvarna&mn=359 (2007-03)&dn=33_12_0005

    nmurph, i already have a 7 pin 3/8's. I' m trying to get over to a .325
    As to why the P&C failed, i have nfc. It was a ripbay "parts or rebuild" purchase with intention of rebuilding it as a project/hobby. The piston was damaged on the exhaust port side and the tank kind of smelled like straight gas, so i'm thinking it was either straight gased or the intake boot problem. It also has a walbro 199A carb lol :dizzy:
    I already did the intake boot mod and put a wormdrive clamp on it for now until i can get one of the smooth band ones from baileys.
    Carb limiter tabs have already been shaved off with a sharp utility knife so that's not a prob anymore. It cranked up and ran fine last night. Starts on the first pull after warmed up for a minute. Lots of compression. i just need a dang B&C on it so i can tune it and put it in some wood to see how the carb is going to behave. I've done my homework, muff mod is next after i get it running 100%. :greenchainsaw:

    P.S. i forgot to ask, should i replace the needle bearing in the clutch drum while im in there? or just put some grease on it and let 'er rip.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  7. timberwolf

    timberwolf Addicted to ArboristSite

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    In that case you will want a .325 8 pin to give you about the same chain speed as the 3/8 7 pin. 359 will have more than enough torque to pull the 325 8 and would be slow with the 325 7.

    You may need to check the spline size before getting the rim sprocket, 359s can be found with either small or large spline drives.
     
  8. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Yes, and a .325x8 can only be fitted to a small spline drum.
     
  9. timberwolf

    timberwolf Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Yep, if he has a large spline drum then it means replacing the clutch drum and oil pump gear which would get to be expensive in the scheme of things.

    Edit: I was mixed up at first that you had it set up for 325 and were going to go 3/8 so had it in my head you were ok for the swap.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
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  10. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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    how do i measure the spline size? i have the rim sprocket in my hand. the inside diameter is 15/16's of an inch.
     
  11. timberwolf

    timberwolf Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Thats about the large diamiter.

    A dime will just fit in the standard small spline, a nickel in the standard large spline.

    One option that might work for you with a muffler mod is .325 9 large spline. You may need to trim the bar heal a little to make it fit. I have tried a lot of different set ups on saws many non conventional, but I have never tried this one though.

    Here is the stihl mini in .325, small in 325 8, small in 3/8 7 and large in 3/8 7

    [​IMG]
     
  12. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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  13. Grande Dog

    Grande Dog ArboristSite.com Sponsor

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    Howdy,
    If you were to keep the standard spline drum, you could go with a .325 x 9 rim.
    Regards
    Gregg
     
  14. hamish

    hamish Addicted to ArboristSite

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    If you are going to run a .325 set up you should also need to replace your oil pump pinion to 503 91 27-03. As the 3/8" uses a different ratio on the pinion.
    Not a big issue but will allow the setting on your oil pump work better with the .325 set up.
     
  15. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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    well i thought about that but timberwolf says i'd probably have to trim the bar heel down to make it fit.
     
  16. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Try an extra dl in the chain if you want to try it, but the reason TW said what he said probably is because the saw use the small bar mount, and the bars are pretty slim at the rear end.
    Anyway, I doubt a stock 359 will have the power needed for .325x9, so just forget it! ;)
     
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  17. GA_Boy

    GA_Boy AboristSite Guru

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    Thanks SawTroll. What would be the best option for a 359 cutting speed wise, 3/8 or .325? We don't cut much large diameter timber unless it's pine so anything more than 18" bar is overkill.
     
  18. timberwolf

    timberwolf Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You might be ok with the 9 pin 325, but it is close, I would think though with the muffler opened up it would do it, esp if your not going after big hardwood.

    With 18 inch bar and chain 325 it might be a better fit than with 16 inch. My one dislike of the 359 is getting the chains on and off with that outboard clutch. It is real tight with a 3/8 8 pin which is what I run no trouble on ported 359.

    Stock 50-60 cc saws are right on the line of what is fastest 3/8 vs 325in standard chain. It could go either way depending on wood, bar length gearing, how well the saw is running, how sharp you keep the chain and just how hard you like to push.
     
  19. coxy

    coxy New Member

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    Having a problem with husky 359

    Does anyone know much about the 359 husky chainsaw. I have one that cuts off hard to the left even when fitted with a new bar and chain. Have swapped parts from a similar saw with no positive result. Any thoughts????
     

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