Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type

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Well it flexes pretty good and seems to seal well.
On another note, I need to lengthen my plug wire, I'm assuming I can splice another plug wire on to make it longer? I've got another plug wire from an older poulan top handle saw, but it looks like a tad bigger guage, will it work to splice on?
 
Well it flexes pretty good and seems to seal well.
On another note, I need to lengthen my plug wire, I'm assuming I can splice another plug wire on to make it longer? I've got another plug wire from an older poulan top handle saw, but it looks like a tad bigger guage, will it work to splice on?

I've always started over with plug wires...meaning I get as close to the source as I can if I splice. Electrically, going from a smaller gauge to a larger gauge shouldn't present a problem. But with electronic modules, it would be better to stick to the original gauge. There's a certain resistance by length etc....not sure I'd try to do something non-factory there. You take out that module and they run over $100 used and about $150-$200 NOS.

Kevin
 
I've always started over with plug wires...meaning I get as close to the source as I can if I splice. Electrically, going from a smaller gauge to a larger gauge shouldn't present a problem. But with electronic modules, it would be better to stick to the original gauge. There's a certain resistance by length etc....not sure I'd try to do something non-factory there. You take out that module and they run over $100 used and about $150-$200 NOS.

Kevin

Thanks, I don't really have a choice though, for some reason the plug wire was shortened at some point and its really too short.
Amy other model saws have compatible coils?
 
i got one also just recently.. but very unwell.








The muffler has 85/100 up on the top left of it.. not sure if that has something to do with manufacturing date or not.

but inside shes ugly as a red headed step daughter!



 

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Uggg...parts saw. I'd even check the crank for wear....a lot of damage there. She's had a tough life fer sure....muffler bolts were hex head with a locking tab.

Kevin

I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.
 
I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.

Are you sure the tank assembly isn't the leaker? They are KNOWN to leak over time...especially from the oil tank. Ask me how I know about those stupid tanks...or better yet, ask me to count the spares that I have in boxes from the paranoia....lol

Kevin
 
some one has epoxy glued the whole seam underneath so just suspected it was from there.

edit: just looked on the IPL. i see the tanks are separate from the crank area. it could be leaking from the long skinny cover plate on the recoil side. wiped it all dry.. will check tomorrow for fresh oil trails.
 
I got to split it as it leaks bar oil on the floor. Will do bearings and seals. Found a jug. Got a piston coming. It had a Golf piston in it. But I don't think that is the reason for the grenading.

It actually looks like it is debris from a broken piston that has made most of the damage, so the cheap piston may well be the culprit.
 
I'd be very surprised if the crankcase was leaking...mostly the tanks leak. I was cleaning my tank out and used a air compressor to try and dry it out faster on the oil side. POP...went the tank and the seal was compromised. I tried everything to bond back the halves. In the end, I cleaned the surfaces and re-bonded the halves with a commercial epoxy(rated much higher than JB Weld).....it lasted for six months and started leaking again. I didn't feel too bad for making the tank leak because in my research, these tanks are leaking often as they get old.

Kevin
 
The guy I bought it off "rebuilt the carby."



Wonder if all mufflers are like this. With the cover on there ?



Nuts in there ready.

The cover was a heat shield...common type. There are thin mufflers and fatter mufflers. And of course the jungle muffler....the purpose of this thread. There might have been at least four variants in the IPL....don't remember exactly. I've got a baffle loose in one of mine rattling around.

Kevin
 
The cover was a heat shield...common type. There are thin mufflers and fatter mufflers. And of course the jungle muffler....the purpose of this thread. There might have been at least four variants in the IPL....don't remember exactly. I've got a baffle loose in one of mine rattling around.

Kevin
There are 9 muffler part# in the IPL's SEE here if interested:
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls
 
vinceGU05
I'm far from an expert on these things, but I have been studying. It seems that is 1100/early 2100 piston, full skirt around the bottom plus the ring locating pins are on the front. Later pistons had the pins on the intake side...I wonder why? It seems now guys that buy early pistons put them in backwards with the pins on the intake side. I know I would.....
 
So the 2100 I've been working on had a scorched piston, thick ring which is the first picture. I replaced it with an NOS thick ring piston, second picture. I don't know if they are early or late versions but maybe someone else knows.

20150714_224331.jpg

20150715_191626.jpg
 
Nate
If my studying is correct.....
Both yours are early ...you can see the full skirt at the bottom of the piston below the wrist pin.
The late XP (not jungle) piston did not have the skirt below the wrist pin. Plus the "windows" would be tall and straight not shaped like a coma. The episan I have...I believe is like the XP. The more common golf piston, marked as 2101, clearly is like the 1100 and early 2100. Ring locating pins are spaced differently also.
 

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