blk05crew
I like 'em green
Cool, good info Dave, thanks.
Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type
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Cool, good info Dave, thanks.
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
So is there a better one to have ie the non skirted one later one in any of these saws ?
Is there a performance or reliability gain?
I probably could never find it again, but there was an article on 'why' the ring pins were moved to the intake side. However, there was always supposedly an arrow etched on the top of the OE piston that showed orientation. I've only worked on the 2100's internally in the last 12 yrs. When I was using them professionally, if were were having any kind of compression loss or jug failure, they got dumped and we bought new. There was no reason not to think that better saws were always down the road. Apparently all my 2100's are early, because I've never seen the pins on the intake side.
Husky beefed something up too later on in the 2100 crank dept....don't remember what.
Kevin
blk05crew
I like 'em green
The NOS one I put in had the arrow on top to show which side went forward.
Yep, toward exhaust. Somewhere in the bowels of these saw forums are the reasons they switched the pins toward the intake and what they beefed up in the 2100/2101 design. It's really only important if you're installing aftermarket stuff. There's been a couple of folks who installed the piston wrong(or a wrong piston) and grenaded the jug.
Now, if I could just find a real hard copy of the 2100 Service Manual, I'd be in Heaven. I've looked so long, I've about given up. Lost one at auction in eBay for $50. I had one once and it was lost/stolen. All the digital copies online have their pics looking like melting chocolate bars.
Kevin
Well at the recent ebay $500 NOS P&C price, I would not be inclined to put the pins on the front, no matter the little arrow, where with decades of experience coming out and the factory realizing they made a mistake. After market now copy the old factory stuff good or bad and now can't even label them correctly on the box. Golf calls it 2101 but is clearly the first style piston.
Wrong piston?........how about putting a C grade piston in a A grade bore????? Even the 1980 shop manual tells you that is a NO NO....Maybe my shop manual is no good due to the chocolate smudges.
And I would still suggest deburring the exhaust port to prevent the ring catching.
I guess I'll get to try all this out on my 298XP. The piston is a bit ugly in the port. I have no idea of the history of work (or butchery) previously done to this engine. It is at least twice as hard as my stock 2100cd to pull over. I'll have to borrow my friends bore gauges so I can see if there is a size mismatch. Of course running the engine lean to over 1300 EGT is a formula for disaster as shown above...
Well at the recent ebay $500 NOS P&C price, I would not be inclined to put the pins on the front, no matter the little arrow, where with decades of experience coming out and the factory realizing they made a mistake. After market now copy the old factory stuff good or bad and now can't even label them correctly on the box. Golf calls it 2101 but is clearly the first style piston.
Wrong piston?........how about putting a C grade piston in a A grade bore????? Even the 1980 shop manual tells you that is a NO NO....Maybe my shop manual is no good due to the chocolate smudges.
And I would still suggest deburring the exhaust port to prevent the ring catching.
I guess I'll get to try all this out on my 298XP. The piston is a bit ugly in the port. I have no idea of the history of work (or butchery) previously done to this engine. It is at least twice as hard as my stock 2100cd to pull over. I'll have to borrow my friends bore gauges so I can see if there is a size mismatch. Of course running the engine lean to over 1300 EGT is a formula for disaster as shown above...
I dunno dude, seems like you're spoiling for a fight. I've probably used these saws new professionally in big timber, more than anybody on this forum. But as I said, I've only been inside these saws in the last 12 yrs because parts have become an issue and I can't just go 'buy' one in perfect shape anymore for a reasonable amount of money. Do what you gotta do...I've never had one with the pins in the front that I know of. If you have an original shop manual, the pics should be fine. All the CD's offered online and the PDF's are trash as far as the pics....if you've ever had the real SM, you know that.
Kevin
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Picked this up today for pretty cheap. Thin ring, piston is shot as you can see. I need to take off the cylinder and see if it can be saved. Not sure what to do with this one, picked it for parts really since no decent aftermarket p/c are available. Save it for parts or try and and find a p/c for it? Thoughts?
54stude
ArboristSite Operative
See if it has spark first, and if it does, see if the cylinder cleans up before you order a piston. I would have purchased that one also, looks pretty good!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Yes it does have spark and I will see how the cylinder looks, I've cleaned up a few before. I heard the aftermarket pistons aren't that great though.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Did very many of these 2100's come with chain breaks?
blk05crew
I like 'em green
What kind of compression number do these 2100's usually have for a good runner?
blk05crew
I like 'em green
On the 2100 with the regular, non-Jungle muffler, is it really necessary to have the heat shield piece on front of the muffler? Doesn't seem like it would do much. Just asking cause mine is missing.
I've got a 2101 with the non jungle type muffler and there's no heat shield. And it runs nice. I do love the sound of 'em.
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
i made my muffler into a jungle type.. so the outer cover is gone now.. it wouldnt be necessary to have it.. would be only for safety i reckon.
I guess I don't understand.
If you have a front exit muffler with 3/with outer baffle & inner baffle & screen, it is not a jungle.
first version of jungle is same muffler 2/with outer baffle & inner baffle without screen.
second version of jungle muffler is 1/with outer baffle without inner baffle without screen.
None of the above front exit mufflers use the outer cover/shield as used on a side exit muffler.
A side exit muffler is not....can not be a jungle.
This is what I believe according to my research and the labeled oem parts I've purchased.
If you have a front exit muffler with 3/with outer baffle & inner baffle & screen, it is not a jungle.
first version of jungle is same muffler 2/with outer baffle & inner baffle without screen.
second version of jungle muffler is 1/with outer baffle without inner baffle without screen.
None of the above front exit mufflers use the outer cover/shield as used on a side exit muffler.
A side exit muffler is not....can not be a jungle.
This is what I believe according to my research and the labeled oem parts I've purchased.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks, I didn't think it was really necessary. I'll still keep my eyes out for one though.
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
Old thread, but I hope my onsite here can help someone. I'm not a small engine guy but I am a pro heavy duty mechanic. I've been working on and learning about 2100s for a few months.
I have a gulf piston in mine currently. The locating pins go to the intake side. The reason is simple and straight forward. Grab your piston assembly. Look at the location of the pins. If they centre over a port in one orientation and do not in the other orientation then it goes the way they don't centre over a port. If the ring ends are over a port they will open when crossing the port catching the port and tearing the ring land off like the piston in the picture a few pages back.
Other than that, this is a good thread with lots of good info. My 2100 was my Dad's. He fell for P&G for 11 years. He bought it new in 1984 or 5 I believe. It has the jungle muffler, but had a different type of piston I haven't seen online before. It is much lighter with huge ports, but has the 1.5mm rings. The intake manifold failed on it and it cooked that piston and cylinder. I've contacted a few places that will repair and re nicasil these cylinders for $300, so don't throw them out if they are pooched. May not be worth it yet but in another ten years...
I have a gulf piston in mine currently. The locating pins go to the intake side. The reason is simple and straight forward. Grab your piston assembly. Look at the location of the pins. If they centre over a port in one orientation and do not in the other orientation then it goes the way they don't centre over a port. If the ring ends are over a port they will open when crossing the port catching the port and tearing the ring land off like the piston in the picture a few pages back.
Other than that, this is a good thread with lots of good info. My 2100 was my Dad's. He fell for P&G for 11 years. He bought it new in 1984 or 5 I believe. It has the jungle muffler, but had a different type of piston I haven't seen online before. It is much lighter with huge ports, but has the 1.5mm rings. The intake manifold failed on it and it cooked that piston and cylinder. I've contacted a few places that will repair and re nicasil these cylinders for $300, so don't throw them out if they are pooched. May not be worth it yet but in another ten years...
SawTroll
Information Collector
At least originally, it was an option - and when they became mandatory differed between markets.
Btw, do you have a picture of the serial number plate of that saw (and/or the one that is for sale)?
