Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

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thanks for the info on chains, I certainly have plenty to learn about chains and that tidbit might do me a world of good.

The biggest thing is keeping them clear of the dirt. Of course, if you are able to roll the log or branch to finish the cut, you don't have to bother switching out the chain or saw. But sometimes there is no choice, like when you are bucking up a downed tree or branch that is too big or too onery to move.
 
Yup the oiler and chain tensioner are the only differences. No big deal there. They'll do just as well.

Need a tooth pick? :msp_confused:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8466979040/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8466979040_e86bfa0cf6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mweba1/8465875055/" title="Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8465875055_bbf0ed2448_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

I like to do em this way so I can quickly swap between configurations while testing. The and the end user can toss on a new jug and slug if thing go wrong...

I think this one is pretty obvious. If it says 45 on the top of the cylinder, get a 45mm piston. The thing I've seen recommended is a 353 piston, which doesn't have a dished top. Try that and see what you get for compression.

I think the more pertinant question is one I'm going to use to hijack this... is there are difference between 44mm pistons and 44.3mm pistons? I had the same issue w/ an aftermarket cylinder that I cleaned up, and the saw wouldn't start after I put a new aftermarket 44mm piston in it... so I'm wondering ... do 3 variants exist? 44mm, 44.3 and 45?
 
nice quotes.... was there a question in there somewhere? :)

thanks for digging up this thread for me...i gotta go through it and pull out the gems...and there are plenty...gotta compiles a "once and for all 350 advice repository :) )
 
Ok, so here's where I'm on on THIS project... base adapter plate has been cut by .45 thousanths or so... squish now bang on around .020.... I got lucky on that cut.

Timing numbers now... 109, 128, 76 on the hyway kit. I'm gonna grind the exhaust up to 100 ...and the transfers up to 120.... but I was thinking about leaving the intake alone.... yes...no?

I'm using the MM method I saw on youtube with the ring in the cylinder to mark the degrees .... i'll be cutting to that. oh, and I'm taking video of the whole thing :)
 
Anyone care to comment on the timing I should aim for here? Doing some reading reveals that I don't need to grind the exhaust much more the 105...but what should I aim for on blowdown?
When I read that you were going to grind the ex to 100, I almost replied to tell you not to. Glad you did your homework. Randy just spilled the beans in his great pop-up controversy thread "formula for exhaust timing"
 
yes... I read that too :)

frankly not a matter of spilling the beans or not... there needs to be some basic formula to follow... after doing this, its no wonder Randy, or any other builder, doesn't charge way more for what they do.

so, i'll grind down to 105...thats easier AND less likely to perf the cylinder wall.... ok... whats the target for blowdown? 18-20? I was watching weimedog's video on the 350's and he noticed that blowdown on the 346xp stock was around 18 ... vs on the 350's was about 20ish. any benefit to grinding to an 18 degree blowdown?
 
Was experimenting with carbides and diamonds....and polishers....lots of work....props to the builders out there!

If I was going to do this on a more regular basis... I'd change a couple things.. #1, I'd have a vacuum setup on my bench. The dust is just silly. #2, I'd have different diamonds and carbides... the ones I have are perfect for teeth, but not porting. The polishers work ok... but still chatter a bit. Anyway, I'm happy w/ the result, though its nowhere near builder quality... Still, I think my dad is going to be happy with this saw :)
 
My skill with a drill is fine....bit I don't have the right burrs and polishers for this particular job....not that it can't be done right...but would be far better if I had some differnt diamonds....oh...that and if I knew WHERE to cut hahhahba
 
My skill with a drill is fine....bit I don't have the right burrs and polishers for this particular job....not that it can't be done right...but would be far better if I had some differnt diamonds....oh...that and if I knew WHERE to cut hahhahba

If you didn't go too nuts with it, I think you could get in the ballpark on some of the more common saws that the pros here have done build threads on, where you can see the before and during and after pics, including the lines they draw inside the cylinder before grinding.

Plus 1 on a dust collector.

Or maybe a very light continuous water bath with a filter? err...maybe not, proly throw water all over....
 
Sounds like a foolish question but aren't the seals and bearings separate pieces? My new 350 came (1998 build date) and in looking at the IPL there is only one part # for the combined parts I also tried w/o success to separate the two. If they are separate items is there some trick I'm missing?
 

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