Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

[Mattyo]

I'm doing the saw assembly soon....will see how it goes. I think I saved the cylinder . ..we shall see.

Yes...I do use a gasket...coated with 518....which DOES work fine.

I've seen 518 used for base gasket material by itself . ..it works. against plastic is a zero though...

 

[Jerriod Raab]

This my chainsaw husky 340.
I burnt a piston up due to a crank bearing seal failure. When I started cleaning it I noticed that the side that bearing seal went bad on is burnt a little bit. Now my question is, is the bottom half toast or can I still use it?
Thanks for any info it been a dang good saw

 

[Mattyo]

I'd still use it. Check my vids on my youtube channel for extensive info on rebuilding these....

 

[Jerriod Raab]

Thank you Mattyo I watched some of your vids on new jug on one.

 

[SawTroll]

This my chainsaw husky 340.
I burnt a piston up due to a crank bearing seal failure. When I started cleaning it I noticed that the side that bearing seal went bad on is burnt a little bit. Now my question is, is the bottom half toast or can I still use it?
Thanks for any info it been a dang good sawView attachment 550744View attachment 550743

I don't really see a problem, as long as the crank bearings still fits as they should in the case.

You do of course have to find out what caused the damage, and fix it. If not, basically the same thing will happen again.

 

[Jerriod Raab]

I don't really see a problem, as long as the crank bearings still fits as they should in the case.

You do of course have to find out what caused the damage, and fix it. If not, basically the same thing will happen again.

Saw troll all I know right off hand is that bearing whore out. It fell apart when I toke it apart. So I would say that it over heated.

 

[svk]

Just dropping back in here. Did anyone figure out if you can put a 3/8 low profile sprocket on these saws?

 

[SawTroll]

Just dropping back in here. Did anyone figure out if you can put a 3/8 low profile sprocket on these saws?

Possibly, but it is a fairly "long shot". I understand that you can fit the rim and drum system from the 346xp etc on them, and then you likely can fit a standard 7-spline one for the 357xp etc as well (the challenge may be the oil pump drive). There are 7-pin 3/8 lo-pro rims made for that one, by GB, on special order from a (mail order) sales company in the UK. They are quite expensive for sprocket rims, and I have doubts about GB rim quality based on some random posts. Another possibility is "pin-type" rims made by Danzco etc, but they (Danzco) haven't listed such rims in some time.

A 7-pin 3/8 lo-pro may well be a bit much on these saws, unless the top end has been upgraded.

Personally I don't consider it worth doing - but some may....

 

[SawTroll]

A couple of service bulletins that may be relevant in this thread.

Credit to @ray benson for making those and hundreds of others available to me in a format that is compatible with my computer etc!

 

[Mattyo]

uh, neither of those make sense...

I have never seen a bearing cap that was not interchangable with any cylinder. the only fitment issue I have had to accomodate has to do with going from the 346xp oe 42mm piston to 45mm pistons ... they knock on the deck a bit and a relief cut needs to be made. ...which is in my 346xp build vids. maybe what they are talking about has to do with the coarse thread caps vs fine thread?

the 2nd one shows /notes the updated removable transfer cover cylinder, but the photo is of a 346xp NE cylinder.... without the removable covers.

 

[SawTroll]

I have never seen a bearing cap that was not interchangable with any cylinder. the only fitment issue I have had to accomodate has to do with going from the 346xp oe 42mm piston to 45mm pistons ... they knock on the deck a bit and a relief cut needs to be made. ...which is in my 346xp build vids. maybe what they are talking about has to do with the coarse thread caps vs fine thread?

the 2nd one shows /notes the updated removable transfer cover cylinder, but the photo is of a 346xp NE cylinder.... without the removable covers.

All the 351 SB really does is to confirm that the last months of 351/2149 saws systematically came from the factory with a 44 mm closed port cylinder - it wasn't just a few 2149s. That cylinder is a Husky made 44 mm version of the same basic design as the 45 mm one of the 353, 2149 and EPA 350/2150 from the point the other IPL tells. I concluded that the illustration is misleading as well, it is "generic" I assume....

Like you, I also was surprised that the 350 SB mentioned a different bearing cap/cylinder base for the new cylinder. Not that it isn't sort of logic, just that nobody I know of has had problems with it. I assume the difference it minor, and of little to zero practical consequence.

I have just learned that there were "a zillion" SBs (=updates) on the 346 and 350 family saws in the early 2000s, but most of them had nothing to do with the top ends.

 

[Mattyo]

455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:

 

[SawTroll]

All the 351 SB really does is to confirm that the last months of 351/2149 saws systematically came from the factory with a 44 mm closed port cylinder - it wasn't just a few 2149s. That cylinder is a Husky made 44 mm version of the same basic design as the 45 mm one of the 353, 2152 and EPA 350/2150 from the point the other IPL tells. I concluded that the illustration is misleading as well, it is "generic" I assume....

Like you, I also was surprised that the 350 SB mentioned a different bearing cap/cylinder base for the new cylinder. Not that it isn't sort of logic, just that nobody I know of has had problems with it. I assume the difference it minor, and of little to zero practical consequence.

I have just learned that there were "a zillion" SBs (=updates) on the 346 and 350 family saws in the early 2000s, but most of them had nothing to do with the top ends.

There was a misprint in the quoted post, that is corrected in the quote.

 

[Chainganger]

455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:

I am now doing my third 350 and the thing that drives me over the edge is that stupid, cheap, no good, rotten, worthless chain tensioner so I will be on the look out for a used 455 Rancher clutch cover!

You will have to report back and confirm that the pressure put on the bar by this new clutch cover works to press the bar against the oiler hole properly so it still oils the chain nicely while running.

You know, you would not want the law of unintended consequences biting you in the >>>>>, I know it does me on a regular basis.

 

[Mattyo]

I don't have much time on the saw, so yes, I'll eventually report back on the new clutch cover.

I really really like the rancher clutch cover. It really adds a nice touch to the saw.

 

[SawTroll]

455 rancher clutch cover does fit... and some other tips:

That clutch cover comes with a cover mounted chain adjuster, which is something I avoid when I can. The original case mounted adjuster of those saws works fine - I don't agree at all that they are annoying, even though there are better case mounted ones out there (mainly on pro Stihl saws).

It isn't a big deal though, and you always can reverse the process.

Also you are lowering the quality of the saw with putting the 455 cover on it.

There are other things in the video that I agree with though.

 

[Northerner]

Good timing for this thread to pop up, has anyone removed and replaced the oil tank vent on a 345? I've got a leaker and it seems the vent is plugged.

 

[Mattyo]

That clutch cover comes with a cover mounted chain adjuster, which is something I avoid when I can. The original case mounted adjuster of those saws works fine - I don't agree at all that they are annoying, even though there are better case mounted ones out there (mainly on pro Stihl saws).

It isn't a big deal though, and you always can reverse the process.

Also you are lowering the quality of the saw with putting the 455 cover on it.

There are other things in the video that I agree with though.

This is my favorite saw and I use it more often than anything else.... usually cutting cants as they come off the mill. if I eventually sell it I can reverse the process like ya said, but this mod I did for myself. I really didn't like that case mounted chain adjuster. ...not that it doesn't work.



Northerner, I don't think I'd removed a 350 oil tank vent. But, if you want to know if its plugged or not you can stick a pin in it...its just a valve. stick a pin in it and work the valve. ...some brake cleaner in there to blow it out might help as well.

 

[Chainganger]

This is my favorite saw and I use it more often than anything else.... usually cutting cants as they come off the mill. if I eventually sell it I can reverse the process like ya said, but this mod I did for myself. I really didn't like that case mounted chain adjuster. ...not that it doesn't work.



Northerner, I don't think I'd removed a 350 oil tank vent. But, if you want to know if its plugged or not you can stick a pin in it...its just a valve. stick a pin in it and work the valve. ...some brake cleaner in there to blow it out might help as well.

He might have the hockey puck looking vent(s) then I would not stick a pin in it, brake cleaner shot at it might help

I have seen these where the vent was simply missing too, there is a replacement that looks like a plastic plug with a nipple on one side, the nipple to the outside.

 

[Northerner]

I think I got the vent open now. Buttttttttt, like always, one thing leads to the next issue. Long story short, I've torn the whole thing apart now. First it was the oil leak, then I noticed the spur sproket was done, then I figured I would change out the plastic intake clamp with a steel one, so that lead to taking the whole thing apart.
Then I saw some light transfer happening on the intake
Side of cylinder, fixable, checked bearings, hhhmmm, one side kinda rough, so need bearings with seals.....aaarrrghhh!
Just bought the saw for a side line project, now iam in neck deep, going way over what I wanted to spend into it, but she's gonna be like new when iam done.
What do you guys use for a sealer for the clam shell?
I've got some ultra blue high temp stuff and some permatex aviation form a gasket in the shop.