Husqvarna 345 C3-EL18 Carburetor Replacement Help

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Have a Husqvarna 345 with a C3-EL18 carburetor that someone has rebuilt. I remember reading about flaky carbs on Husky saws, but I searched and either get 1000 hits or 5 hits. This one isn't pumping any fuel, the diaphragm side is dry. What is the best new carb to put on this saw? Since someone else has removed and reinstalled the welch plugs, I'm not going to mess with it. I assume the EL32 is for the saws with primers.
 
Go to the Husqvarna website and use the search bar they have. Put in your model saw and it should bring up several IPL's. Find the one that is dated closest to your saw and look through the IPL. It will have the carb model in the IPL. If you look at different years the saw was made it will bring up the different carbs used during its production. That may help you figure out what you're looking for.
 
Found this service bulletin. Apparently, it was the early models with Walbro carbs that had troubles.

SB, 340, 345, 350, 346, 351, Carburetor, 2002-09
The carburetors for the above models have been replaced in order to improve starting, performance,
and for reasons of compatibility. Old and new versions are fully interchangeable.
C3-EL18 (EPA) introduced from serial number: 340 023902301
345 023900501
350 023801301
346 023700001
351 023700001
C3-EL17 introduced from serial number: 351 023200001

New part no. Description Excl. part no. Remark
503 28 32-08 Carburetor C3-EL18 (EPA) 503 28 16-14 HDA 159 A (EPA)
503 28 32-07 Carburetor C3-EL17 503 28 18-03 HDA 154 C
 
Traded carbs between this saw and my 353. The 353 ran fine with this carb, the 345 still won't pump fuel. So, I replaced the fuel line and filter which looked new. No help. Pulled the impulse line and blew through all the passages. No help. What is a good way to test the impulse system? This saw has the plastic intake partition clamp and I have a new one, just don't want to tear it down.
 
Yep... I did a thread about a month ago about this problem. The case screws probably came loose..... killed the seals, bearings and most times the top end. Use a good sealer on all surfaces before you close it up.

All the way around the seals as well where they contact he case.
 
A fellow member asked me about this old thread today. The pictures were lost recently, so I found some and posted them. Trying to point out the areas that leak. I had some pictures of an air test or video, but I can't find them. BTW, the Threebond didn't hold for the test, I had to use Dirko.
 
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