Husqvarna 372AT (or maybe 572)?

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If outboard clutches are so great for the saw's balance, why do outboard clutch Husqvarnas always seem to fall over onto their clutch side?
Because they are made to rotate, which does make handling better.

With that said I see no sound reason for making a modern saw with an outboard clutch. One can argue the points that ST has pointed out, but really at this point they fall on deaf ears. Neither myself or anyone has seen a reliability issue with an inboard clutch, and the handling differences are way overblown.

When it comes to the 572 who knows what's really up. Maybe it had the same design problems the 550 and 562 have, I surely hope it shares nothing in common with them. Sadly I believe Husqvarna has really hurt themselves in the pro market, and it honestly seems their focus has totally shifted to the consumer side of things. That's where the big easy money is after all.

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Was at a Husky dealer's yesterday, & he said a bulletin was received that said the new 70cc Husky AT was ready & soon to be released. Don't know if this is "old" news, but, for those who have been looking forward to this model, your wait may nearly over. My best guess is that it will have been well tested!!
It's interesting that your dealer heard this and nobody else did. Perhaps he heard it from someone up the chain who let it slip early or perhaps he was pulling your leg a bit?
 
Re: Inboard vs Outboard...

Just my thoughts as a guy who cuts a decent amount of wood and has used both types of saws:

I chuckle every time someone touts inboard clutch as a reason to buy a given saw. I just don't see it unless someone makes a habit of pinching their bar in a tree.

-How often does a non-pro change their sprocket? Nearly never.
-How often does someone change a chain? Up to a few times a day. So if you are saving a couple seconds a couple of times a day does that really matter? Personally I change chains when I am taking a water or food break anyhow, so I clean out the sawdust crap under the cover and change the chain. Between changing the chain, cleaning off sawdust, fueling/oiling, and giving it a once over I might fool with the saw for 2-3 minutes during a ten minute break so it makes no difference to me if it is two minutes flat or two minutes and three seconds.

The Huskys that tip over do so because they are almost at a neutral balance of top versus side. Maybe I am crazy but to me that is a good thing for a saw that is going to do both bucking and limbing.

Is the inboard a little easier? Yes a little bit. Is it worth buying a heavier, wider saw with less desirable balance just to get an inboard clutch? Heck no. Buy the saw that you want, and unless there is an absolute even tie of pros/cons when comparing two models, don't worry about it.
 
If outboard clutches are so great for the saw's balance, why do outboard clutch Husqvarnas always seem to fall over onto their clutch side?
That has to do with other design features, like the "rounded" underside of the saw and a relatively high center of gravity - both meant to help during limbing.
It certainly isn't because of the outboard clutch itself, as the weight of the clutch, brake band, etc. usually will be less than the weight of the bar and chain.
 
Re: Inboard vs Outboard...

Just my thoughts as a guy who cuts a decent amount of wood and has used both types of saws:

I chuckle every time someone touts inboard clutch as a reason to buy a given saw. I just don't see it unless someone makes a habit of pinching their bar in a tree.

-How often does a non-pro change their sprocket? Nearly never.
-How often does someone change a chain? Up to a few times a day. So if you are saving a couple seconds a couple of times a day does that really matter? Personally I change chains when I am taking a water or food break anyhow, so I clean out the sawdust crap under the cover and change the chain. Between changing the chain, cleaning off sawdust, fueling/oiling, and giving it a once over I might fool with the saw for 2-3 minutes during a ten minute break so it makes no difference to me if it is two minutes flat or two minutes and three seconds.

The Huskys that tip over do so because they are almost at a neutral balance of top versus side. Maybe I am crazy but to me that is a good thing for a saw that is going to do both bucking and limbing.

Is the inboard a little easier? Yes a little bit. Is it worth buying a heavier, wider saw with less desirable balance just to get an inboard clutch? Heck no. Buy the saw that you want, and unless there is an absolute even tie of pros/cons when comparing two models, don't worry about it.
Do you ever noodle big rounds? Sorry but the inboard clutch is simply a cleaner, easier and more modern design. Weight/balance is not an issue with an inboard clutch, and never has been. Is it a big deal? When it comes to chip clearance the answer is yes, everything else is a minor inconvenience most of the time. For whatever reason Husky simply cannot build a saw that has clean smooth surfaces around the clutch.
 
Do you ever noodle big rounds?
Yes and I've never had a problem on modern outboard saws with a little bit of technique.

I've also seen people state you cannot jam an inboard saw when noodling which isn't true.

For whatever reason Husky simply cannot build a saw that has clean smooth surfaces around the clutch.

I've wondered about this myself.
 
You can always get noodles to clog up if you try hard enough. With that said it makes a huge difference, especially when you have a good chain, and a strong saw pulling an 8 pin.

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I think you all are making too big a deal out of this. I don't see a problem with an inboard, nor do I see a problem with an outboard. If you buy a saw or are discouraged from buying a saw just because of what clutch it has; then to me that's ludicrous. There's so many other factors that should be taken into account that are much more important than the clutch when buying a saw.

Husqvarna, Stihl, Dolmar, etc. know more about their saws than anyone of us will ever know, so the decision on whether to put an inboard clutch or a outboard clutch was very likely to have been well thought-out.

Sure, putting a rope in the combustion chamber and taking the clutch off every once and awhile to get to the needle bearing isn't what I want to do later in the day, but it's a small thing to do when you look at the big picture.

The pros and cons are so minimal that it's amazing people argue over it IMHO
 
Do you ever noodle big rounds? Sorry but the inboard clutch is simply a cleaner, easier and more modern design. Weight/balance is not an issue with an inboard clutch, and never has been. Is it a big deal? When it comes to chip clearance the answer is yes, everything else is a minor inconvenience most of the time. For whatever reason Husky simply cannot build a saw that has clean smooth surfaces around the clutch.


I originally thought inboard clutch saws were the best "noodlers" (= clearing the noodles best) - but it simply hasn't been true with the saws I have/have had - so there obviously are more factors involved than what looks like the obvious ones.

How modern the inboard clutches are is debatable - as far as I know they have been around at least since the 1960s, and for all I know (which isn't much on saws older than that) it may be much longer. Regardless, they are inferior in more (and more important) respects than they are superior, just not the ones that are most obvious. It still is a matter of priority between the advantages/disadvantages though, and the priorities will vary with the situation.
 
....
Sure, putting a rope in the combustion chamber and taking the clutch off every once and awhile to get to the needle bearing isn't what I want to do later in the day, but it's a small thing to do when you look at the big picture.
....

That is one thing you never need to do with the outboard clutch Husky saws (at least as long as they are fairly modern) _ just knock the clutch off, and everything is immediately available inside it. No piston stop or special tool for the clutch is needed.
 
To say an engineer designing a tool, knows more about how it should function than the user on the end of said tool, is simply arrogant. An automotive engineer designing a race car works with race car drivers to build a working product. This is where engineer types get themselves in trouble, and is why the current generation of Husqvarna saws are complete failures IMHO. They often think the engineers and computer modeling equal real world use. It doesn't!!

Nitpicking the differences is what we, and the customer base does. No matter the technical or manufacturing reason, if you don't make a product that works, or a product that people want, you'll no longer make anything.

Fact is people want a product that is easy to service, functions in most normal applications, and works in all environments.
 
To say an engineer designing a tool, knows more about how it should function than the user on the end of said tool, is simply arrogant. An automotive engineer designing a race car works with race car drivers to build a working product. This is where engineer types get themselves in trouble, and is why the current generation of Husqvarna saws are complete failures IMHO. They often think the engineers and computer modeling equal real world use. It doesn't!!

Nitpicking the differences is what we, and the customer base does. No matter the technical or manufacturing reason, if you don't make a product that works, or a product that people want, you'll no longer make anything.

Fact is people want a product that is easy to service, functions in most normal applications, and works in all environments.

That mindset is how people see engineers, but we actually try to get as much customer feedback as we possibly can, at least in the US, at least most of us. More than an average amount of German and northern European engineers are a lot of times the opposite. If you don't like their product, it's that you don't have good taste or you are using it wrong. A prime example of this was the E-class suspension under the Dodge Magnum, which had lots of complaints about how it drove. The official response from Daimler was... I forget the wording, but it was a very elaborate way of saying "It's excellent. You Americans just don't know what good suspension and handling feels like."

Mike
 
To say an engineer designing a tool, knows more about how it should function than the user on the end of said tool, is simply arrogant. An automotive engineer designing a race car works with race car drivers to build a working product. This is where engineer types get themselves in trouble, and is why the current generation of Husqvarna saws are complete failures IMHO. They often think the engineers and computer modeling equal real world use. It doesn't!!

Nitpicking the differences is what we, and the customer base does. No matter the technical or manufacturing reason, if you don't make a product that works, or a product that people want, you'll no longer make anything.

Fact is people want a product that is easy to service, functions in most normal applications, and works in all environments.
Arrogant? I disagree. Some of the brightest designers and engineers combined time, effort, and research to put out that saw, given they did their job. They then get input, through real world use, by professionals or whomever tests the saw or any product for that matter. Changes are made if need be. I'm sure this isn't news to you or anyone else. However, I don't see the point in you saying it's arrogant of me to state that the people who designed the saw from the ground up know more than anyone else about it. And, I also didn't say that they would know more of "how it should function", I simply said they know more about it, and their decisions of things such as inboard vs. outboard, in this case, are made with all their knowledge about a saw that they designed. I don't think it's a terrible claim to make here. They make prototypes, do test runs, make sure the saw is balanced good, etc. before they send it to actually be tested. Then even more data is collected and compiled and changes are made.

I think the new Husqvarna saws aren't anything to be ashamed of. The 3 series set the bar pretty damn high, and so far the new ones seem to hold up. As much as I'm skepticle of computers being in a saw, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.

I do agree with you regarding engineering and modeling vs. real world use though. I think we can all agree on that. As far as nitpicking goes, this inboard vs. outboard stuff is really just a waste of time. My 272xp doesn't bother me one bit, and neither does my 372xp

Matthew
 
Matthew I believe we're on the same track for the most part. A good engineer will be versatile, some are, some not so much.

One huge factor to not overlook is how controlling management is and how it influences the final product. Why use transfer covers? It was likely to save money! Air leaks here we come. Non of us really know why they did what they did, but we know the outcome, which hasn't been bright. And with the constant and ongoing issues with the 5 seaside saws, it really is like they rushed them to market without a proper shakedown whatsoever. Remember this is all just my opinion, for whatever it's worth.

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