Husqvarna flywheel removal misery

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I have both 2 and 3 arm flywheel pullers. Both work well if you use them correctly.

I've had the best luck though with my solid brass punch. It's about 10" long and about 1" in diameter. Not sure where I got it or how long ago, but it seems like I've had it forever.
 
Finally got the flywheel off. I had the saw hanging in the air with small ropes tied to the flywheel. That already put some pounds of pressure on the wheel. I made up a new "knocker", a nut the same size as the flywheel nut welded onto the end of a deep well socket. I welded the nut onto the ratchet end of the socket, that way the end of the crankshaft made solid contact with the socket/knocker contraption. I figured that would take some of the pressure off the the threads when I hit it. This time I hit it so hard I figured I was gonna either destroy my saw or get the **** wheel off. I got it off!


knocker.JPG removed.JPG
 
I just use a cheap 2 arm puller, works every time. Had to grind down the ends abit thinner that they go under the flywheel.

Next time I do this with one of these Huskys, I'll try the puller routine. With the L series Huskys I'm working on, there's not enough clearance to get a puller hooked behind the flywheel. So I'll have to make up a puller that bolts onto the flywheel face instead.
 
Next time I do this with one of these Huskys, I'll try the puller routine. With the L series Huskys I'm working on, there's not enough clearance to get a puller hooked behind the flywheel. So I'll have to make up a puller that bolts onto the flywheel face instead.


Good job!! :clap:
 
Maybe the rope had too much "give" or bounce in it; and during your light(er) taps you were just stretching the rope. I always use the two screw driver method with a brass hammer. It has worked on every outboard, lawnmower and chainsaw I have ever owned.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Why did you want to replace the seal?

This saw could easily be up to 40 years old, I figured with seals ready to blow at any time. The seal on the clutch side is real easy to get to, so I replaced that one first. Sure enough, the rubber was old and brittle, and I knew that the other seal would also have to be replaced. I plan on using this saw for doing a bit of milling. I bought it as a parts saw a while back, and it's in good enough shape to make a runner out of it.
 
The little dab of weight the saw was giving by being hung was doing absolutly nothing !!!!!!!!
 
I seem to have luck with backing off the nut to where just the very end of the crank is showing, grasping the edges of the flywheel with one hand and lifting the saw by the wheel just off the bench, and giving the crank a solid hit with a hammer. This method hasn't failed me yet...sometimes it takes a few tries but obviously it's easier with a smaller, lighter saw. I would imagine a large saw would need a puller or pry bar.
 
I seem to have luck with backing off the nut to where just the very end of the crank is showing, grasping the edges of the flywheel with one hand and lifting the saw by the wheel just off the bench, and giving the crank a solid hit with a hammer. This method hasn't failed me yet...sometimes it takes a few tries but obviously it's easier with a smaller, lighter saw. I would imagine a large saw would need a puller or pry bar.
just did that to an 056 and a c-7 homie. worked great. works good with 2 guys when dealing with the bigger saws.
 

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