My 440 kit vibrates too much in my opinion. A lot more than my 660s. My 380 kit is very smooth.
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TimTaylor
ArboristSite Operative
Is that to do with the flywheel and crank being smaller and lighter? Those bits are a lot smaller than the same bits from my 048 but with the same bar and chain in the same log it feels like the 440 might just have more power, which I'm very surprised about.
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There have been other reports of vibration with the 440 kits. My guess it is poor quality control. Mine is worst just above idle rpm. It must hit it's natural frequency around 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.
TimTaylor
ArboristSite Operative
Have you done much cutting with it? Do you think it's something you would keep using?
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I have not been able to use it in wood yet. I have trip planned in the next few weeks to my cabin in northern MN. We had a large storm blow down last summer so I will get some time on several Huztl kits. I hope to go head to head with oem.
Wood Chopper
ArboristSite Operative
Ok, so I started my 440 build last night. During the trial fit of the cylinder with no piston rings on I started to measure the squish with no base gasket. The solder that I was using on the 660's to measure squish was fine. For this 440 it was too thin. Went to .050 solder still too thin. I have thicker solder that I may have to make "feeler gauges" out of and see where I am really at with no base gasket. I guess what I am getting at is unless this is just a weird cylinder I am going to have to take a lot of meat off the cylinder base at least .030 My original plan was to use the base gasket and take that thickness off cylinder.
So first do you think the cylinder is way off?
Second how much have people taken off the base? There is a lot of meat there but I'm brobably looking at .040 -.050 ?? to get to the low .020's
So first do you think the cylinder is way off?
Second how much have people taken off the base? There is a lot of meat there but I'm brobably looking at .040 -.050 ?? to get to the low .020's
The 50mm cylinder that came with my kit had over 38 mils of squish without a base gasket. My solder is only 38 mils and it did not deform.
Wood Chopper
ArboristSite Operative
Was that one of the reasons you went with the 52mm?
If I take that much off to get to a reasonable # will I effect port timing too much?
Wood Chopper
ArboristSite Operative
I just read the other thread. With eb saws measurents
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TimTaylor
ArboristSite Operative
Silly question, sort of. In nz we use both metric and imperial measurements, but I'm confused by the squish measurements quoted here. I assumed that 020 mil meant 20 thousandth of an inch. So that is the squish I set up on the 52mm jug. And I keep snapping starter cords and handles and pulleys . And it kicks like a mule. Is 020 mil really 2 mm or something? Cause that doesn't really make sense
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TimTaylor
ArboristSite Operative
What I'm really starting to think is that the timing is off somewhere. And that means I'm going to pull it all back apart and measure everything and I know I should have done that first. Funny thing is it ran so well first up, until I broke the starter pulley. I did check the fly wheel key but I haven't checked the timing. Did I read somewhere that it's possible for the flywheel aluminium part to move on the steel part?
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20 mil = 20 mil thousands = 0.020 inch
I started with a 52mm cylinder and had issues with it not starting. I had compression, spark, and fuel but after starting and dying about three times it would not start at all. I replaced the ignition coil and it be running great ever since.
The 52mm huztl cylinder had a very uneven squish measurement. It varied several mils depending where I measured. The squish band at the top of the cylinder also was machined so the squish measurement was wider toward the outer bore radius than it was 3/16 inch in from the outer bore radius.
I would suspect your coil but recheck your flywheel too.
TimTaylor
ArboristSite Operative
Ok,I have slightly variable squish but better than I expected. 20 to 24 thou. Slightly tight I would have thought but I don't really want to put a base gasket in if I can help it. Weird thing is the tank relief valve seems to have failed. And the carb somehow as well. The cylinder was full of fuel, and fuel was pumping into the crankcase ,and air filter, with the saw sitting on the bench right way up, with the tank half full ....? All of the rest of it is fine, the coil runs another Stihl saw fine. So I rebuild the carb and put another relief valve in? Or would a genuine Stihl carb be a better bet? Still enjoying the experiment but I haven't made a lot of sawdust yet. And the 52mm piston's "ceramic" coating washed off in petrol.....And made black marks on the white saw under the exhaust. . Forgot to take photos. The piston is actually a very nice looking object though even now.
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I've had some pistons with it on there. Not sure if it's ceramic but it's a anti scuff coating. It will wear off.
That black under the muffler is likaly oil from assembly or a rich tune. Also their supplied gasket is lacking.
That black under the muffler is likaly oil from assembly or a rich tune. Also their supplied gasket is lacking.
