Huztl MS660

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So my kit came in, it all seems to be there minus the parts previously mentioned elsewhere. My cylinder was surprisingly clean, I suppose it could use a bit of a touching up. It had the $ sign instead of saying farmertec as I had seen earlier. p3.jpg p1.jpg p2.jpg The brake link was the typical farmertec design as previously shown. I didn't manage to get an oem one today, but will before I get it done. I purchased a hyway gasket set for the oil seals and it included the foil heat shield. Hopefully next week I can get it up and running.
 
They actually produce those jugs and label them for others. They make the spark plugs too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
 
Hello AS forum! What a great site and bunch of guys! You guys have been my R&R all evening after re-blowing my left knee out while laying 280 ft of waterline today. I occasionally deal with some huge oaks and a 660 kit saw for $272 shipped would be nice to have for felling and a few bucking cuts. I've gone through most of the pages here but still feel I may overlook something when getting a 100% kit + misc stuff together. Is it asking too much to get a complete list of all OEM parts, special tools, sealants, recommended assembly lubes, etc that is needed for the Huztl kit? Hope I'm not being too hard headed but, I'm paranoid that some little missing tid bit or tool will set me back several weeks. On a related note, what's a fair price to offer for a new working 660 kit saw powerhead assembled by an experienced saw collector/hobbiest?
 
Johnnybar said:
Hello AS forum! What a great site and bunch of guys! You guys have been my R&R all evening after re-blowing my left knee out while laying 280 ft of waterline today. I occasionally deal with some huge oaks and a 660 kit saw for $272 shipped would be nice to have for felling and a few bucking cuts. I've gone through most of the pages here but still feel I may overlook something when getting a 100% kit + misc stuff together. Is it asking too much to get a complete list of all OEM parts, special tools, sealants, recommended assembly lubes, etc that is needed for the Huztl kit? Hope I'm not being too hard headed but, I'm paranoid that some little missing tid bit or tool will set me back several weeks. On a related note, what's a fair price to offer for a new working 660 kit saw powerhead assembled by an experienced saw collector/hobbiest?
Click to expand...

i would love to help you. i will write it all down for you. if you want send me the kit i will build it for you and you won't need to mess with learning all this stuff.

$600 +s
or since your down and out you get a pad of paper some pop corn and start at the first post and start reading. hint write the post # and a short description of its contents and move on. you will not miss a thing. then come out and say i would like to know what post # means and we will help you. easy peasy
 
Copying someone's design is one thing, copying a trademark ... that is taboo!!! (and just plain out disingenuous)

They keep doing that, there will be legal problems.

Trademark protection does not expire like a patent. I advise you to give your friends a heads up!
 
What would you advise them? Quit making cylinders for them?
Sometimes people assume they know when they don't. That cylinder is on eBay with its mark showing for less than 40$.

I don't feel friendly I feel knowledgeable.

The sky is not falling
 
In think i seen a post on this in the other forum. It's close to the same symbol could be same.
72acc97de799b9e13c4cf09aa66a4505.png
 
Wow can everybody see that says Stihl. A lot of you guys act like old ladies. My mother used to call it a motor mouth.

Thanks davhul
 
I just looked closely and that is not a dollar sign. Least one like on the other aftermarket jug that has two down strokes. Not sure what it is.
 
So I pressed my halves together this evening, I used a thin film of motoseal on each half with the hyway gasket which was a little thinner then the farmertec gasket. On the space between the crank and wall I have .035 on one side and .025 on the other, I whacked it with a hammer and can't seem to get it to move over. I suppose I could get it in the press but I hate pressing on the crank side with the threads. Should I be good with this clearance or should I try to get it to .030 on each side of the crank?
 
Have you tried spacers/washers and a nut to pull gently while tapping the other end gently and a .030 shim or feeler gauge is inserted for a stop? Make sure the washer next to the crankcase is big enough to rest on the outer race of the bearing and that the washer stack is at least one washer thickness taller than the square shoulder on the crank where the threads begin.
 
Bedford T said:
i would love to help you. i will write it all down for you. if you want send me the kit i will build it for you and you won't need to mess with learning all this stuff.

$600 +s
or since your down and out you get a pad of paper some pop corn and start at the first post and start reading. hint write the post # and a short description of its contents and move on. you will not miss a thing. then come out and say i would like to know what post # means and we will help you. easy peasy
Click to expand...

Bedford T said:
What would you advise them? Quit making cylinders for them?
Sometimes people assume they know when they don't. That cylinder is on eBay with its mark showing for less than 40$.

I don't feel friendly I feel knowledgeable.

The sky is not falling
Click to expand...

Bedford T said:
Wow can everybody see that says Stihl. A lot of you guys act like old ladies. My mother used to call it a motor mouth.

Thanks davhul
Click to expand...

Bedford T said:
Be gentle. Lady whacks
Click to expand...

What's your problem?
 
post # 1795
HoosierS said:
So I pressed my halves together this evening, I used a thin film of motoseal on each half with the hyway gasket which was a little thinner then the farmertec gasket. On the space between the crank and wall I have .035 on one side and .025 on the other, I whacked it with a hammer and can't seem to get it to move over. I suppose I could get it in the press but I hate pressing on the crank side with the threads. Should I be good with this clearance or should I try to get it to .030 on each side of the crank?
Click to expand...
 

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