If you were to buy a new saw 60 cc and under

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50cc saws like the .325" over the 3/8" in 18" configurations; it is what it is.

I want to try 3/8" picco on a 50cc saw before going to .325" completely.

I hate having all these different size chains, and I'm not changing my MS200T, so would 3/8" picco be acceptable on a ported 026/261, or is that asking too much?
 
50cc saws like the .325" over the 3/8" in 18" configurations; it is what it is.

I want to try 3/8" picco on a 50cc saw before going to .325" completely.

I hate having all these different size chains, and I'm not changing my MS200T, so would 3/8" picco be acceptable on a ported 026/261, or is that asking too much?

Picco on a 261CM is wasting your time. In fact, I would go with 3/8 on a modified one over 325, and run a 20" bar.
 
I was banned from a different site for saying the same.... Be careful.
If they want to ban me for speaking a perspective of reality, well then this site isn't worth my presence any how!

And I will still have more firewood then I could ever use at the end of the day and never be unhappy. If others need the approval of the crowd about their choices so be it.

7
 
Let me throw in my two cents again with a longer explanation. You say you want a 60cc saw so go pick a 60ishcc saw that handles the best for you, preferably a pro model that our porting wizards have had good success modifying. Have it ported.

Basis for recommendation: The speed of the saw though important is not the biggest factor in productivity - you are. The more comfortable you are with a properly sized saw the more efficient and productive you will be. Once you pick the saw that handles best to you, then get it ported to achieve its maximum efficiency and productivity. Pick your accessories and chains with the same in mind. A former AS poster was known for saying with reference to chains types and the frequency of sharpening "faster by seconds, slower by minutes." The same principle applies to saws. A poor handling fast saw will likely result in less productivity at the end of the day than a slightly slower but better handling saw.

Ron
Absolutely.

I get more cuts out of me if I'm using my 70cc saw then if I'm using my 110cc saw: probably because my 110cc saw with B&C weighs 2 x my 70cc saw with B&C.

I also leave my 660 on the truck unless I need it; because 50cals aren't needed to dispatch a housecat ;)
 
555 is the best bang for you buck in the 60cc class period. Ive had a ported 562xpw and 2 ported 359s and I prefer a fingerported 262xp. It is what it is. Another one worth mentioning is the Echo 620, I seem to recall Wiggs stating that he was interested in getting his hands on one, saying that he believes there is some serious "potential" locked away in the saw.
 
Picco on a 261CM is wasting your time. In fact, I would go with 3/8 on a modified one over 325, and run a 20" bar.

.325" is faster in 18" than 3/8": RS or square Skip, according to what I've been cutting.

I wish it weren't so, but it is in Oak.
As mr. Hondaman said, 3/8" skip is too grabby.

The 3/8" RS cuts very well, but you can't lean on it like you can with the .325".

It is a trade off, as the others told me when I started wanting to run the same chain on everything 50cc- 90cc.

I wanted to consolidate to having the fewest chain sizes available, while keeping usefulness/ productivity as high as possible.

I don't like having 4 different chain, and i plan on maintaining the sizes .404", 3/8", and 3/8" picco.
 
And there's nothing wrong with that. I found the thread interesting as it gives perspective on what people use their saws for and what people see as a required tool.

You should just get the saw you want, as it is not a need and you won't be able to rationalize it as such - and just about anything would cut that stuff fine.

No need to worry about having to rationalize it. Buying a quality product designed to last is always a good idea. Both for use, and for resale. You don't lose.

I am a professional. I make my living with saws. I swing them for as much as 8 hours a day. My arms are huge. I deal with a wide range of work from Rhododendron clearing to felling trees up to 5' DBH. I make them into land fill, firewood, logs and furniture. My perspective is porting allows me to go from 3 saws(40/50 - 60/70 - 80/90) to 2 saws, and carry less weight in the bargain. I currently run a ported 241CM and a ported 044 as my main saws. Occasionally for tiny jobs, or back up, I run the estate-owned 181. But, frankly, with the small difference in weight between it and the 241, it is mainly back up.
 
.325" is faster in 18" than 3/8": RS or square Skip, according to what I've been cutting.


The 3/8" RS cuts very well, but you can't lean on it like you can with the .325".

It is a trade off, as the others told me when I started wanting to run the same chain on everything 50cc- 90cc.

I wanted to consolidate to having the fewest chain sizes available, while keeping usefulness/ productivity as high as possible.

I don't like having 4 different chain, and i plan on maintaining the sizes .404", 3/8", and 3/8" picco.

Thats it exactly

A well ported 261cxb does 18" 3/8 very well too, its very impressive
 
Wipe it off with brake parts cleaner........geeezzz

You should see the Rhododendron caked onto yer old 044. Oh wait, you CAN see it. See it - see it now!

158340399.GSihbSgE.jpg
 
Would love to hear more about the wws2253.?
PM tlandrum. He gives deals when you buy the saw and get it ported. I owned a Mastermind 346xp, and 372 XT. They both cut very well. The 346 has a cult following. I sold them on here and kept my WWS 2253, and 2260. Mastermind is the person that introduced me to Terry of WWS. I love red and black saws and really like the auto tune. When given the option to use any of my saws, people always chose the ported 2253 over the ported 346 or the ported 2260 over the ported 372. I like them all, but chose to stick with the red and black.
 
No need to worry about having to rationalize it. Buying a quality product designed to last is always a good idea. Both for use, and for resale. You don't lose.

I am a professional. I make my living with saws. I swing them for as much as 8 hours a day. My arms are huge. I deal with a wide range of work from Rhododendron clearing to felling trees up to 5' DBH. I make them into land fill, firewood, logs and furniture. My perspective is porting allows me to go from 3 saws(40/50 - 60/70 - 80/90) to 2 saws, and carry less weight in the bargain. I currently run a ported 241CM and a ported 044 as my main saws. Occasionally for tiny jobs, or back up, I run the estate-owned 181. But, frankly, with the small difference in weight between it and the 241, it is mainly back up.
For a pro, the cost difference is not really relevant. For the same reasons the tools I use in my job are not what you would expect the typical electronics hack to have in his shop, and I need some of the features that equipment has. This is true for most professions. But that is not what the thread was about either.

The word "quality" gets used a lot here, but it's an ill-defined word that often means "I feel good because I spent a lot and got a really cool saw". Owning a neat piece of equipment is a great feeling, and when I see the build threads on the newer Husqvarnas and Stihls I appreciate the designs as much as anyone - same as I would looking at a Ferrari. But for a non-pro these are luxury purchases - why not recognize it as such and skip the attempt to justify it as a need?

There is another term called "value", which in recent times people view negatively, but this was not always so. Nor will it be in the near future. I find that I can get good equipment at much lower cost, improve it and maintain it with my own skills, and it will last for many years of the kinds of use described in this thread. Personally I get far more enjoyment using a good but modest tool I built/repaired/modified myself than I do buying some bleeding-edge equipment from the factory. Actually, as a homeowner/firewood hack, using some of that pro equipment to cut down and buck a little tree would make me feel kinda silly.
 
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