Me trying to correct a mistake . ...
Important....husky 350 loctite 518 vs 1184 vid
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Me trying to correct a mistake . ...
Thanks for sharing. I mostly use HondaBond. It's thick enough to work, yet it's thin enough that it lays flat so you won't get big clumps blocking the transfer flow. I let it set up over night so nothing gets in the bearings or anything else. It works so well I have to really work to get the cylinder off. I believe 1184 is similar. I personally have been reluctant to use 518, as it doesn't seem too bond very well. Yamabond works well, but it's really thick and silicone like, same with dirko, so you have to be really careful not too apply too much.
518 works fine metal to metal....brads 340 that I took apart only has 518 for base gasket and it took a bit for me to get it off.
It's just a nogo for plastic...
It's just a nogo for plastic...
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
I've put together a few clamshell saws with 518. Dunno, worked fine here.
I've never had a problem with 518.
Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
locktite themself doesnt recomend 515/518 sealent for metal to plastic surface.
If you let it cure for 24 hours, you can take the bearing cup off without using much force.
518 has close to no bond on plastic.
I'll keep that in mind, although it's very rare that I would work on a plastic saw. BTW, that particular 340 had been in commercial use for several months now and is running great. I can't say for sure, but I probably used 518 on the bearing cap as well.
I see where Loctite recommend 518 for metal to metal surfaces, but is there any documentation to suggest that they recommend against it? With just a quick search I haven't found anything. A call to them would probably be best.
I just watched part of the video and that does not at all look like 518 to me. 518 is bright red.
Have you checked the bearing cap for flatness? Are the metal bosses on the plastic chassis proud at all?
Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
There is a bit about 518 and plastic surface under general information (page 3).
I know that when I tested out 518 on my 350 that I let it cure between 24-48 hours in room temperature, the bond it had to the plastic surface didnt exist, it was 100% cured also.
Plastic, vibration and no bond is never a good combination.
I know that when I tested out 518 on my 350 that I let it cure between 24-48 hours in room temperature, the bond it had to the plastic surface didnt exist, it was 100% cured also.
Plastic, vibration and no bond is never a good combination.
How to answer....it's either 515 or 518....I don't use anything else...that's how it cures...yellowish clear.
I'll be honest. I think we're jumping to conclusions here. IMHO, there doesn't have to be a bond for there to be a seal. All it has to do is fill the gap. A sample size of one doesn't make a solid case. The info in the tech document doesn't really make it any clearer for me either. You may well be right, but I would like to see more solid evidence before drawing a conclusion.
I agree that a very small sample size is not conclusive I will see if I can gather some more evidence Butt I will be honest and say I don't think it's very difficult to draw a conclusion here That Loctite does not bond to plastic and apparently it doesn't fill the gaspeither
Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
maybe, but the facts is quite clear, 518 has it's limitations. When you read through the latest version of the datasheet there is two things who is clear, it was never ment to be used against plastic surface, the other thing is dry film thickness.
When you dismantle one oem 350, study the area between the seal, bearing cup and crankcase, you will see that there is quite a bit chunk of silicone there, max dry film thickness for 518 is 0.25 mm ie 0.01", if it has to build a thicker you either has to use activator or it may never cure 100%, ie it will be washed away after some time
If it turned into a solid this would be true, but it doesn't. It has to bond to some degree to work IMHO. I've also seen factory applied derko fail, the surfaces have to be spotless for this stuff to bond and last. You're always taking a gamble not using a gasket, it's a calculated risk we all take. Properly applied the risk is minimal, but these sealants can and do fail.
518 "cures when confined in the absence of air". It does become hard. It's actually quite difficult to remove from cylinder flanges.
Yes it's anaerobic, that's part of the problem. Does it get totally hard or just firm like silicone? Either way it doesn't seem like a good sealant in some applications, especially on uneven surfaces like clam shell engines, or rubber/plastic.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Again...not complaining about using it as base gasket material...in the 350 the clamshell aluminum joins with the plastic chassis and there is no option for a gasket.
518 does dry/cure pretty hard....need to use a wire wheel to get it off.
I will continue to use it on my intakes and base gaskets and even the case seal....but not against plastic.
518 does dry/cure pretty hard....need to use a wire wheel to get it off.
I will continue to use it on my intakes and base gaskets and even the case seal....but not against plastic.
I've used a product called " The Right Stuff " with good results.
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