Important....husky 350 loctite 518 vs 1184 vid

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Mattyo said:
and even the case seal....but not against plastic.
Click to expand...

This is actually where I saw it fail, on a Poulan 4000. These saws have no case gasket and the repair manual even calls for 518, air leak city. I switch to HondaBond and didn't have a problem. I know lots of guys use 518 and it works well, but it's just threads like this plus my experience makes me a bit kiddish is all.

From the previous information it looks like the surfaces need to in near perfect condition as it will only fill .001 of a gap. Which isn't bad, but on some older saws and clam shell saws it could be an issue without the hardener, and it looks like a no go on plastic. It sure is easier to apply from what I remember.[emoji106]
 
Mattyo, I have a 450 with an air leak I need to chase down. In your video, I see the normal sheet of rubber between the muffler and exhaust flange but how are you sealing off the intake side ? And is that soapy water you are brushing on to look for air bubbles?

The 450(unlike the 350) does not have a riser block but the clamshell cylinder sits directly on the plastic case. I replaced the piston and sealed it with 518. The saw runs well but takes forever to idle down. If this is another case of a faulty sealant on metal to plastic, I will report back.
 
Odd that they clearly state it's not recommended for use on plastics but then use a polycarbonate ring in the test for instant sealing properties.
The same test was done on the 2nd sheet using steel instead and the results would almost support that recommendation but for a glaring inconsistency on the .125 mm test. Misprint?
 
Here's another unhappy customer with both 518 and 1184 on plastic. The pic below is a Husky 450 that is apart for the 3rd time in 2 weeks. It developes an air leak, wont idle down and races. The cylinder does not have an aluminum crankcase cover that bolts to the cylinder bottom. The cylinder sits directly on the plastic case. Note that Huskie now uses the small rubber gaskets(pictured on the notepad) . The first time this saw was rebuilt, I re-used the old gaskets and supplemented with 518. Air leak, so I took it apart and there was no evidence of 518 on the plastic. Repeat the above and used 1184...same result. Its now apart again and I have ordered new OEM rubber gaskets ($7/ea). When this saw is fixed, it going to spend Xmas under someones elses tree.

IMG_1138.JPG

I have several 350s that do not have a problem sealed w/ 1184 but the bases are flat by sanding on sheet glass and 400 grit paper.
 
On the 455 ranchers that I've rebuilt....there is a metal clamshell embedded in the plastic chassis as the base of the clamshell ...so the seal would likely be better or rather...more easily achieved with the 455 rancher.

Thanks for sharing.
 
cedarshark said:
Here's another unhappy customer with both 518 and 1184 on plastic. The pic below is a Husky 450 that is apart for the 3rd time in 2 weeks. It developes an air leak, wont idle down and races. The cylinder does not have an aluminum crankcase cover that bolts to the cylinder bottom. The cylinder sits directly on the plastic case. Note that Huskie now uses the small rubber gaskets(pictured on the notepad) . The first time this saw was rebuilt, I re-used the old gaskets and supplemented with 518. Air leak, so I took it apart and there was no evidence of 518 on the plastic. Repeat the above and used 1184...same result. Its now apart again and I have ordered new OEM rubber gaskets ($7/ea). When this saw is fixed, it going to spend Xmas under someones elses tree.

View attachment 540994

I have several 350s that do not have a problem sealed w/ 1184 but the bases are flat by sanding on sheet glass and 400 grit paper.
Click to expand...
Did you sand the base of this jug flat?
 
blsnelling said:
Did you sand the base of this jug flat?
Click to expand...

No, I didn't but I think that is a good idea. It's easy to see high spots(if they exist) the first couple passes over the sandpaper.


But the sealing surface is right at the gaskets....so is sanding really going to help?
 
Are you cleaning the surfaces with a good solvent, and letting the sealant set up? If you still have issues something thicker like Yamabond 4 may be worth a try, it seems to seal about anything.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
Andyshine77 said:
Are you cleaning the surfaces with a good solvent, and letting the sealant set up? If you still have issues something thicker like Yamabond 4 may be worth a try, it seems to seal about anything.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I am pretty thorough about cleaning these saws. The best thing I have found to get the sealant off of hard plastic is carb cleaner. After application, I let it sit for 15 minutes before assembly. As this saw depends on the gaskets to seal, possibly the machining process is not as "tight" as one that requires sealant or a thin gasket ? The service manual specifically says to replace both gaskets if the cylinder is removed. I tried to "poor boy" these two "breakdowns" by re-using the rubber gaskets and supplementing with 518 & 1184. The crank seals will be replaced this time as well.
 
Andyshine77 said:
Sounds good. However I wouldn't let the sealant sit that long before putting things together, the solvents I'm some off-the-wall sealants flash off pretty quick.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


How long would you let 3bond 1184 sit before putting the jug on ?
 
cedarshark said:
No, I didn't but I think that is a good idea. It's easy to see high spots(if they exist) the first couple passes over the sandpaper.


But the sealing surface is right at the gaskets....so is sanding really going to help?
Click to expand...
everything help, but even sanding the areas 100% flat will not help for a good bond to the plastic area. Only sealant who is ment for a bond to both plastic and metal will work on a long run.
If I should rebuild one 350 I think I would used Dirko, but I hope I dont see any of those clamshell saws...

On Husky 350 OEM I think Husky used this sealant:
_DSC3239.jpg
It's the same type sealant they nowadays has started to use on 550 cylinder gasket to prevent airleak due uneven crankcase halfs.
 
Wondering how closely related this permatex stuff is to the loctite 518. Ive used this on quite a few saws, including 2 345s tht needed new intake clamps. These are both in use almost daily by a tree service, over a year now and no issues.
 
Tor R said:
everything help, but even sanding the areas 100% flat will not help for a good bond to the plastic area. Only sealant who is ment for a bond to both plastic and metal will work on a long run.
If I should rebuild one 350 I think I would used Dirko, but I hope I dont see any of those clamshell saws...

On Husky 350 OEM I think Husky used this sealant:
View attachment 541259
It's the same type sealant they nowadays has started to use on 550 cylinder gasket to prevent airleak due uneven crankcase halfs.
Click to expand...

Tor,

Very interesting. This is the first I have seen this Dow/Corning 7901. It appears that this is a Husqvarna part. Am I correct ?

Edit: After research, this is a Husky part suitable for the aluminum to aluminum pan on Huskie 141,41,136 and 36 clamshells. The Dow Corning website rates it as an adhesive/sealant rated stable at high temps and low temps. It is not rated for certain types of plastics. $44/tube.
 

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