Is there a better way to do this

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

J.W Younger

ass kissing impaired
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
28,981
Reaction score
36,883
Location
a world of isolation
Felling smal diameter trees on a southern facing hillside. Some of these will be no larger than 10" and still be 60'+ in height. Pulling is not only slow but requires a long rope or falcrum point to keep from landing on the puller. For the most part 1 wedge will work but the tree will sit back on the back cut before its deep enough to set a wedge and not have it bottom out. What I've been doing is to bore thu the face cut and fan the backside, set the wedge and cut the holdin straps. If theres a better/faster/safer way I'm open...?
 
I would put a small face cut 1.5" deep there abouts, bore to set the hinge and fan back leaving a back strap. Set the wedge(s) in the kerf and then cut the strap.

Edit, this will get you one holding strap instead of what sounds like as two on your method. This also sets the hinge and holds everything while you setup.
 
Felling smal diameter trees on a southern facing hillside. Some of these will be no larger than 10" and still be 60'+ in height. Pulling is not only slow but requires a long rope or falcrum point to keep from landing on the puller. For the most part 1 wedge will work but the tree will sit back on the back cut before its deep enough to set a wedge and not have it bottom out. What I've been doing is to bore thu the face cut and fan the backside, set the wedge and cut the holdin straps. If theres a better/faster/safer way I'm open...?

It don't sound too bad J.W.... You're dropping these up hill right? Not heavy leaners?
 
Are you felling them up the hill so they will be easier to get to?

Why not just tie a pulley to an uphill tree as a re-direct and use a rope puller attached to a tree right the one you are felling. If they are that small you might even pull some of them over by hand saving the time it takes to thread the rope puller.

Ever set ropes with a throw bag and line? Tie a running bowline?

I got a long rope and a throwline a year ago. I'm still learning (sometimes the hard way). I've had to get my throw bag back with a long pole a few times already. The rope makes things a LOT easier when there's no good way to do it otherwise. Also got a pulley for redirects, and use it a little, but not as much as I thought I would.

JW, here's one way to do it, I've made it work on a couple trees, but I don't think I'd be using splitting wedges, I have a hard time keeping rifled plastic wedges in frozen hardwoods, let alone a steep angles slippery steel one.

Tongue and Groove Tree Felling Technique - YouTube
 
It don't sound too bad J.W.... You're dropping these up hill right? Not heavy leaners?
No for the most part not heavy leaners Matt, just tall and in the way. I think CTME's advice on faning the hinge on one side will make things go eaiser and let me get at some white oak down by the creek. Some of these will make my stumpbroke 460 come in handy.
 
No for the most part not heavy leaners Matt, just tall and in the way. I think CTME's advice on faning the hinge on one side will make things go eaiser and let me get at some white oak down by the creek. Some of these will make my stumpbroke 460 come in handy.

I liked that saw... Even though it was orange and white...:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I liked that saw... Even though it was orange and white...:hmm3grin2orange:
She sure is a runner. I have a 20" on it and with the chain square filed and an 8 pin rim you can't bog it unless its pinched. Some of these trees i'm lookin to git a longer bar wood be nice but for no more than i use one ani't worth it. Most my firewood comes from 16" and under stuff. I think this place was bladed somewhere back in maybe the 50's cause most of the larger trees are the faster growin black gum and yellow pine, not much good for firewood but I cut em up and burn em if they blow over.
 
For the more wedgable trees I would suggest backcutting, inserting a wedge as soon as possible, then face cut it, and finish it off by driving the wedge a bit more. It will take less time than other methods because of its simplicity. Try it first on some trees that you feel comfortable with, maybe you will like the technique.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top