Jonsered 2159c idling tuning issues

[Pastornater]

Hi all,

I have read many tuning posts and have applied a lot of what I have read.

The chainsaw was running rough for a day, I put it away for a week and then I couldn't get it to start to save my life.

I replaced the diaphragm and other basic carb kit parts. Pulled the head to make sure the metal clamp on the intake thing was tight. Replaced head gasket. Cut ends off or replaced fuel hoses. Replaced fuel filter and spark plug.

When I mess with the screws I can get it to idle for maybe 10 seconds. Giving it throttle makes it bog down. Each pull of the trigger bogs the idle further. This I assume is what is revered to as loading up from too much fuel. Adjusting the L screw in does not change much... But it doesn't bog because it simply won't idle long enough to test anything... Even if I back the T screw out all the way and try to control the idle with the throttle.

I have noticed the spark plug is quite wet, and wetness in exhaust and even around the compression release button so I think it's too much fuel still but it is e only way I can maintain and idle.

Help please wanna throw it out the window.

Also cylinder looks really nice and not scored. Carb looked really clean.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Pressure and vac tested? Everything you put back on is tight and stuff?

 

[Ozhoo]

Welcome to AS. Your carb default settings are 1 turn out on both the high and low side. If you're more than 1/4 turn or so out from that you have something else going on.

So, set it to 1 & 1 and report back. Given what you've done so far, a pressure and vacuum test on the crankcase and a pressure test on the carb would be called for.

 

[Pastornater]

I have done the 1 and 1 set. Same results.

I have been testing it without air filter in case it is clogged, I just had a thought that might make the Carb lean?

It seemed folloish to me that I couldn't even get it to idle well enough for me to adjust the screw while it runs. Is it possible I damage the need valve? I ought I was careful not to crank it in hard.

What kind of equipment do I need to check pressure and vacuum?

Thanks

 

[Ozhoo]

A Mightyvac MV8500 is a good kit for the buck.

 

[brad ruch]

Ive had the same issue with my 372xp xtorq. I ended up buying a oem carb new.but from what found this is caused by a bad needle valve or bad metering arm that holds the needle.also the height of the metering needs to be level with the top of the carb.

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[Westboastfaller]

Its your coil going out of time

 

[Westboastfaller]

Ive had the same issue with my 372xp xtorq. I ended up buying a oem carb new.but from what found this is caused by a bad needle valve or bad metering arm that holds the needle.also the height of the metering needs to be level with the top of the carb.

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yes if he is seeing gas coming out of the carb or heavy "drip down" under the filter. He should be able to tell the different between carb and coil. Classic signs of their rev limited coils failing again.

 

[Pastornater]

yes if he is seeing gas coming out of the carb or heavy "drip down" under the filter. He should be able to tell the different between carb and coil. Classic signs of their rev limited coils failing again.

The fuel seems to be around the spark screen slot and exhaust hole

Also if I start it it will wind up and die immediatly, but if I give an immediate throttle pull it will kick down and idle decent for 10sec

 

[brad ruch]

I'm curious to see if the coil is the issue then.if so I will be buying a black coil to replace my rev limit blue one

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[Pastornater]

I'm curious to see if the coil is the issue then.if so I will be buying a black coil to replace my rev limit blue one

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Where is said coil? Near the pull start?

 

[brad ruch]

Take the pull start off.4 screws.and there will be a plastic shroud over the flywheel. You will see 2 wires going to it.should be blue coil.2 screws hold it on.

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[Pastornater]

Take the pull start off.4 screws.and there will be a plastic shroud over the flywheel. You will see 2 wires going to it.should be blue coil.2 screws hold it on.

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Can you ohm it to test if it's good?

 

[brad ruch]

I see yours should be black.

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[brad ruch]

Can you ohm it to test if it's good?

I don't think you can.you could check the spark to how it looks.

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[Pastornater]

I don't think it would run that long if the coil is bad would it? I'm going to try some things in a bit now that I am home

 

[brad ruch]

I think it's the carb needle.

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[Westboastfaller]

It will idle decent for 10 sec?? Are you sure? It idles normal?
Well that part doesn't fit with a failing coil. unless its intermittent?
usually a coil will do most of what you say but leak more fuel out of the muffler front, back and decomposition and smoke a lot. It can often manage to barlery run. Generally "Drip down would make it hard to start but should clear up once running. Just pull your cap & filter and keep the choke in. Prop the the front up in a warmer spot.. Usually the sun (or cool night to warm shop and see if the needle is holding. It will pool if you are getting drip down. Just so YOU know.

 

[Pastornater]

I think it's the carb needle.

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Lol ya as one arm up some leftover pork ribs I keep thinking that is it too. Maybe i cranked it too hard. Strange thing is something else made it just stop working, I didn't mess with the needle and then have it stop working afterwards. I'll just hope I pull the needle and there is a spec of Crap in there...

 

[Pastornater]

Are you referring to the float needle or the Low needle?