Just bought a Husqvarna 2100 CD

[blk05crew]

Been wanting a Husky 2100 for a while and found one last weekend in great cosmetic shape. It ran but the piston was scored which was ok because I've got an OEM one that is going in it with new rings. Cylinder had some minor transfer which I removed with 150 grit, 320 grit emery cloth and red scotch bright pad. Anyway, rings arrive today and everything should be put back together in the next day or two.

Here are some pics.

Cylinder before transfer removal.


Cylinder after.


Old thick ring piston, scored. Going to be replaced with another thick ring.


Here is the muffler, it's missing the exhaust deflector piece and these pieces of metal I had to fish out with some pliers. Is it still usable like this?


And here are a few pics of the rest of the saw.








I'll post more pictures when I get the new piston and rings on and when I get the saw back together. Also, this saw doesn't seem to have an ID tag, do some the 2100's not have one?

 

[High-Wall]

Serial # plate would be on top of r.h. crankcase near muffler exit. I would check muffler for more possible loose shards before start-up and be looking for one. Insure that new piston with new crank seals and check for the metal air conductor plate next to recoil and flywheel. When you hear it run you will have to sit on both hands to keep from waving at everybody!

 

[formersawrep]

You want to be very careful with the muffler. They used to have problems with pieces of the muffler breaking off and damaging the piston/cyl.

 

[blk05crew]

You want to be very careful with the muffler. They used to have problems with pieces of the muffler breaking off and damaging the piston/cyl.

Going to get a new used one soon hopefully.

 

[blk05crew]

Got everything put back together last night.

NOS Piston and new rings.



Piston and rings mounted with some oil on the piston, ready to put the cylinder back on.



Saw put back together.




Fired right up and idled good, just couldn't quite get it to the sweet spot. Going to pick up a carb kit today and rebuild the carb tonight. Should have done that to start with anyway.

 

[blk05crew]

Anybody know if the 480CD muffler will fit the 2100CD for sure?

 

[turtle561]

Anybody know if the 480CD muffler will fit the 2100CD for sure?

does the carb have a governor valve on it ? look for a large slotted brass plug.

 

[blk05crew]

does the carb have a governor valve on it ? look for a large slotted brass plug.

Yes it has a governor valve.

 

[turtle561]

Yes it has a governor valve.[/QUO
those need to tuned in the cut , otherwise you will lean it too much looking for the sweet spot and end up like before.
or you can block the 4 hole with a thin aluminum wafer and tune normaly.

 

[blk05crew]

Huh, I didn't know that. Never adjusted the governor on a saw before. I think my 5200's have one as well.

 

[turtle561]

Huh, I didn't know that. Never adjusted the governor on a saw before. I think my 5200's have one as well.

you don't tune the governor, just the L and H screws. the gov causes it to go rich at high rpm's.
this is from the manual. take heed.
Speed governor
The purposeof the governor is to limit the engine
speed in order to protect vital parts Iike the crankshaft
and ignition system from excessive stresses.We
therefore advise most strongly against any interference
designed to render it inoperative.
When the saw is run under no-load conditions, the
enginespeedis limited to 10,500 r/rein as the governor
comes into operation.
312
w
I
4+
4
Fig 4.6
3
1.
Steel ball. 2. Spring. 3. Fuel inlet. 4. Fuel outlet.
The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised
that vibrations in the carburetor at a certain
enginespeed cause the steel ball to open the fuel
outlet. An excessively rich mixture is then obtained
and the engine begins to four-stroke, the speed
drops and the vibrations decrease.The steel ball
then closes the outlet, the engine speed increases
and the processis repeated.

 

[Big_Wood]

Anybody know if the 480CD muffler will fit the 2100CD for sure?

it bolts up but isn't the same. wait for the right one man. trust me on that.

 

[blk05crew]

it bolts up but isn't the same. wait for the right one man. trust me on that.

Thanks, I will. I need to get a new plug wire too to replace the one on the saw now, it's about shot.

 

[blk05crew]

Does the plug wire on this saw screw into the coil or how does that work? I'm at work so I don't have the saw to take apart right now.
I know it takes 5mm wire, but not sure how to replace it.

 

[Big_Wood]

Does the plug wire on this saw screw into the coil or how does that work? I'm at work so I don't have the saw to take apart right now.
I know it takes 5mm wire, but not sure how to replace it.

no, for that one it is permanently attached to the coil. sucks bad! you can either lather up the lead with a silicone or put some thing rubber tubing over it. alot of 2100's came with a red tubing over the lead for around the cylinder fins. i've even connected a new piece of lead to a nub off a coil in a pinch that worked. LOL somebody might have other better idea's for it.

 

[blk05crew]

no, for that one it is permanently attached to the coil. sucks bad! you can either lather up the lead with a silicone or put some thing rubber tubing over it. alot of 2100's came with a red tubing over the lead for around the cylinder fins. i've even connected a new piece of lead to a nub off a coil in a pinch that worked. LOL somebody might have other better idea's for it.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.

 

[blk05crew]

Got the plug wire fixed and saw fires right up. Put a carb kit in and the idle, high and low screws are both working good to adjust the idle but it's just not quite getting to the sweet spot.
So here's the question, the muffler is completely gutted, no baffling or spark arrestor and a big opening where the exhaust deflector goes. I'm getting a new one tomorrow, but could this gutted muffler affect the idle not getting quite right?

 

[drf255]

Two things.

First, that saw ate the exhaust side of that piston. Could the saw have an air leak? Do you have any idea why the saw died the first time? How far out is your low screw?

There's a good chance that you can't get it to idle correctly because there's an air leak. Will manifest mostly at low speed. Then as you really get to cutting, and the saw heats up, the metal expands, the air leak increases, the saw runs lean, etc...

Second, did us cycle a paper towel through that crankcase before assembly? Looks like metal dust and dirt in dere.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

All it needs now is a bow bar!

But ditto on the above post. Also bear in mind that you're gonna need a pretty good sized piece o' wood to actually get that rascal dialed in once you have the little stuff worked out.

Too bad there's no tag to help ID the vintage. There were limited coils after around 2000 maybe? I also believe the governor can be defeated/bypassed or an optional carb swapped in to get past that aspect. Short on the details there at the moment, but seem to recall reading about both "elsewhere". Then again, I may be talking out my butt like I occasionally do!

Good luck with it. Wish I had one!

 

[blk05crew]

H is at 1

Two things.

First, that saw ate the exhaust side of that piston. Could the saw have an air leak? Do you have any idea why the saw died the first time? How far out is your low screw?

There's a good chance that you can't get it to idle correctly because there's an air leak. Will manifest mostly at low speed. Then as you really get to cutting, and the saw heats up, the metal expands, the air leak increases, the saw runs lean, etc...

Second, did us cycle a paper towel through that crankcase before assembly? Looks like metal dust and dirt in dere.

H is at 1 turn out and L at 1 1/4 turn is real close but the chain still turns and when the idle is turned down to get it to stop the chain it dies.