Just bought a Husqvarna 2100 CD

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H is at 1
Two things.

First, that saw ate the exhaust side of that piston. Could the saw have an air leak? Do you have any idea why the saw died the first time? How far out is your low screw?

There's a good chance that you can't get it to idle correctly because there's an air leak. Will manifest mostly at low speed. Then as you really get to cutting, and the saw heats up, the metal expands, the air leak increases, the saw runs lean, etc...

Second, did us cycle a paper towel through that crankcase before assembly? Looks like metal dust and dirt in dere.

H is at 1 turn out and L at 1 1/4 turn is real close but the chain still turns and when the idle is turned down to get it to stop the chain it dies.
 
All it needs now is a bow bar! :rock:

But ditto on the above post. Also bear in mind that you're gonna need a pretty good sized piece o' wood to actually get that rascal dialed in once you have the little stuff worked out.

Too bad there's no tag to help ID the vintage. There were limited coils after around 2000 maybe? I also believe the governor can be defeated/bypassed or an optional carb swapped in to get past that aspect. Short on the details there at the moment, but seem to recall reading about both "elsewhere". Then again, I may be talking out my butt like I occasionally do!

Good luck with it. Wish I had one!

:cheers:

Thanks Poge, appreciate it!
 
Definitely change the seals and the oil pump o-ring. Did you disable the governor on the carb or leave it be? If the governor is still functional, you MUST tune the H side in the wood. It's a good idea to tune 'em in the wood anyways......

Where did you find an NOS thick ring piston?
 
Definitely change the seals and the oil pump o-ring. Did you disable the governor on the carb or leave it be? If the governor is still functional, you MUST tune the H side in the wood. It's a good idea to tune 'em in the wood anyways......

Where did you find an NOS thick ring piston?

Thanks for the info, I am going to replace the seals. Got the piston from my brother in law but he picked it from the same place we pick our parts at. He got another thin ring one and a cylinder there two.
Same place I got a replacement muffler today for $3020150718_142138.jpg20150718_142138.jpg

20150718_142138.jpg
 
Anybody have part#'s or know where to get seals? My 5200 seals were national and got them at O'Reillys auto parts.
 
NICE score (muffler and the pistons). They have any more NOS thick ring pistons left there? I could use at least one....

Seals (and bearings) are the same as what are used on a Husky 288XP or 394/395XP. 503260205 for the seals (same on both sides). Available from/through any Husqvarna parts source.

The oil pump body o-ring is 740422200. Also still available from Husky, as it's used on the 3120XP (and some other husky equipment) as well.
 
NICE score (muffler and the pistons). They have any more NOS thick ring pistons left there? I could use at least one....

Seals (and bearings) are the same as what are used on a Husky 288XP or 394/395XP. 503260205 for the seals (same on both sides). Available from/through any Husqvarna parts source.

Thanks for the info! No he grabbed the last of them. Actually he got really lucky, I don't think they knew what they were for.
 
Anybody have part#'s or know where to get seals?

Thought I sent a link for the IPL's and shop manual? You'll find the number Aaron referenced if ya actually check out the material. It will also clearly illustrate the role of the oil pump as the seal carrier and why there's an "O" ring in the mix.
 
Thought I sent a link for the IPL's and shop manual? You'll find the number Aaron referenced if ya actually check out the material. It will also clearly illustrate the role of the oil pump as the seal carrier and why there's an "O" ring in the mix.

Sorry I haven't actually been able to look at them yet. Been busy today and just been responding to messages by phone.
 
Gotcha. Hope you find the stuff helpful. The Service Manual is the one that's been floating around for a while (with the terrible pics). I digitized the Operator's Manual and Exploded Parts Diagrams myself from hard copies graciously loaned to me for conversion to PDF and to be made available for others. Anyone else who's interested can shoot me a PM for the download link.
 
Just got back in town from Norton MC national rally. and was catching up and researching the other AS 2100 piston thread.
Found in another thread from an alledged service bulletin that only the first 1100/2100 pistons have the ring locating pins either side of the exh port like your "NOS" piston...and like my golf piston.
I would guess the next 5 pistons were all gaped on the rear/intake side....like my episan piston.
 
Changed the oil pump O ring and seal on the clutch side of the saw last night. Oil pump was actually missing one of the three screws but I had a screw from another saw laying around that worked as
the third one. However, I spent 45 minutes on the other side trying to remove the flywheel and it won't budge. Tapped it with a hammer several times and nothing, so that seal still needs to be replaced.
I did start it up when after the one side was done and the saw was put back together. Same issue, it's close on the idle but saw dies before the chain will stop and just idle. Has a fresh carb kit, metering lever is flush, H is at 1 turn and L has been between 1 and 1 1/2.
If there is an air leak, wouldn't the saw accelerate or die when it's turned on it's side either way, because it doesn't it stay the same.
 
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