Just getting started (REALLY looking forward to it!!)

[Joe Scherschel]

Hello all!! Short time ready, first time poster.

I had a lot of Ash felled in my yard and woods and the plan was to have people come pick it up for burning or whatever. My father in law gave me the idea of a chainsaw mill (he's never done it, just saw it one day). I wasn't really interested until I saw some of the YouTube videos (and there are A LOT!). After seeing how awesome this looked, I was hooked! I spent the next 3 weeks or so doing research (on Mills, saws, cuts, accessories, etc).

We looked very seriously at the Granberg however were able to find one very similar for $100 less. I bought the Holzfforma 36" mill last weekend and found a Stihl 460 with a 660 engine (modded) on Craigslist. I purchased that today.

I'm getting closer and closer to starting this awesome passion project, but I need a little (let's be honest...a lot of) advice. I will be buying a 36" bar and chain but need some thoughts on that. The guy I bought the saw off recommended a full chisel skip tooth chain (whatever that is). Everywhere I've read recommends a Rip chain. Also, would love some info on bar and chain brand recommendations for this too.

Thanks in advance for reading this and I look forward to hearing so much awesome info!!

TLDR version: Got saw and mill, need advice on chain and other info.


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[BobL]

Welcome to the forums. I'd start by reading the Milling 101 thread at the top of this forum.

 

[SeMoTony]

Hello all!! Short time ready, first time poster.

I had a lot of Ash felled in my yard and woods and the plan was to have people come pick it up for burning or whatever. My father in law gave me the idea of a chainsaw mill (he's never done it, just saw it one day). I wasn't really interested until I saw some of the YouTube videos (and there are A LOT!). After seeing how awesome this looked, I was hooked! I spent the next 3 weeks or so doing research (on Mills, saws, cuts, accessories, etc).

We looked very seriously at the Granberg however were able to find one very similar for $100 less. I bought the Holzfforma 36" mill last weekend and found a Stihl 460 with a 660 engine (modded) on Craigslist. I purchased that today.

I'm getting closer and closer to starting this awesome passion project, but I need a little (let's be honest...a lot of) advice. I will be buying a 36" bar and chain but need some thoughts on that. The guy I bought the saw off recommended a full chisel skip tooth chain (whatever that is). Everywhere I've read recommends a Rip chain. Also, would love some info on bar and chain brand recommendations for this too.

Thanks in advance for reading this and I look forward to hearing so much awesome info!!

TLDR version: Got saw and mill, need advice on chain and other info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree with Bobl . Square skip chisel is trouble some to keep in good order for milling, but I find it worth while. IMHO semi chisel skip is easier for newbies to learn to sharpen and use. My avatar has my ms-460 w/60" bar spinning square skip chisel. I'm retired , so have the time to put on reading glasses to see my angles/result of filling with the 6 sided files needed. Had I enough reason I'd buy a chain grinder for the chisel. I use skip because it seems to clear chips better. The finish on the cut surface is more dependant on uniformity of feed/angle Learn sharping, tuning, B&C lube and proceed with caution til you learn. Experience provides knowledge, growth of knowledge then speeds process. Welcome

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Thanks for the advise. Quick question, is the terminology just different? Is a "Rip" chain the same as a "Skip Chisel" chain? Sorry for my ignorance, hard finding the right info for me.

Joe

 

[Joe Scherschel]

My main concern is I don't know what I'm looking for in terms of Pitch, Gauge, etc if I were to go buy a chain. I got the MS460 with a 20" bar so I will be buying a new 36" bar and chain...just don't know where the best place is to buy or which to buy. I guess I'd love for someone to say "get this bar and this chain with this pitch, gauge, etc". May be asking too much, lol.

 

[kjudd]

On my 461 and 660 I run .050 Guage and .375 links on my 32in and shorter bars. That's what my 461 came with. But look on the bar with the saw it will tell you everything.

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[Joe Scherschel]

I'll be buying the bar (it didn't come with the 36") separately. I found a Stihl bar and skip chain at our local shop. They want $84 for the bar and $39 for the chain. Does that sound reasonable? Or are they bending me over here?


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[RedTailHawk]

I'm about to try out my new Alaskan chainsaw mill with my Stihl MS-290. I bought a ripping chain, but turns out it wasn't the correct size. Couple questions: why is it so difficult to find places that sell ripping chains? If my regular chain is a Stihl 26 RS 81 (20", 81, .325", .063" width) what size ripping chain should I get?

 

[Joe Scherschel]

I went with the bar and chain mentioned. Got it on and snapped some pics. Will post more once the mill comes in.

 

[SeMoTony]

I'll be buying the bar (it didn't come with the 36") separately. I found a Stihl bar and skip chain at our local shop. They want $84 for the bar and $39 for the chain. Does that sound reasonable? Or are they bending me over here?


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Stihl chain is pre stretched and IMHO holds sharp better if you avoid rocks & dirty wood. Pro-rated over how much use you will get from it not a bad cost. Take a close look at cutters and raker height to start with best cutting chain you can, touch em up if needed. Look online at what an oregon bar of that size to match your drive sprocket with shipping. That may give a perspective on 1st outlay, length of service will show the value.
if you take "teeth" off there will be an inch or more of milling cut available, and bring the weight of the power head closer to the bar clamp and support (-;

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Stihl chain is pre stretched and IMHO holds sharp better if you avoid rocks & dirty wood. Pro-rated over how much use you will get from it not a bad cost. Take a close look at cutters and raker height to start with best cutting chain you can, touch em up if needed. Look online at what an oregon bar of that size to match your drive sprocket with shipping. That may give a perspective on 1st outlay, length of service will show the value.
if you take "teeth" off there will be an inch or more of milling cut available, and bring the weight of the power head closer to the bar clamp and support (-;

I went ahead with the Stihl bar and Oregon chain my dealer had. What do you mean by "if you take the teeth off"?


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[SeMoTony]

I went ahead with the Stihl bar and Oregon chain my dealer had. What do you mean by "if you take the teeth off"?

Traumatic brain injury in 1972 still continues to interfere with memory. there is a more correct term for the black "teeth" that bite the bark to use as fulcrum in cross cutting logs/trees. Either side of bar in your two views in #9, the clamp will be closer to power head if they are removed is the point I tried to make, since those pieces serve no purpose in milling. on my 661 they do carry broke chain roller protection.

 

[rarefish383]

I think when tony said take teeth off he was referring to the "dogs", the big sharp steel teeth that dig into the log. If you take them off you gain an inch or two of usable length on your bar. Ripping chain is different than your standard chain in the angle of the cutter teeth. A ripping chain is sharpened at about 5-10 degrees, looks almost straight across. A skip chain looks like it has every other set of teeth removed, for a longer distance of links between the cutters. It gives the chain a chance to clear sawdust/chips. I use my 660 for firewood and removals, so I don't use ripping chain. My friend does use ripping chain and it seems to give a little smoother cut. But, once you get the hang of it, you can mill a pretty smooth cut with standard chain. If you have to push real hard and see saw back and forth, your saw is dull, and you'll get a rough cut. Elevate one end of the log so gravity helps. As Bobl said, read the milling 101 sticky and keep asking questions, Joe.

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Thank you all for your replies! Very helpful. Can't wait to get started!


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[Joe Scherschel]

Wait, you're saying for this I should take the dogs/teeth off? It makes sense, but just wanna confirm I won't need them on at all.


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[Joe Scherschel]

Also, when it comes to prep for the logs, do I want to seal the logs before i cut them, or cut them and then seal the ends? Or once cut, I don't need to seal since it will all dry evenly now? Thanks,

Joe

 

[kimosawboy]

seal logs first
read the ''Milling 101 thread'' like BobL said
use the search function on this site, most everything you have asked has been gone over , and over, and over...

 

[Joe Scherschel]

I got my Holzfforma today! Gonna put it together and get some picks uploaded for you to see Pretty excited!!!

 

[SeMoTony]

I'm about to try out my new Alaskan chainsaw mill with my Stihl MS-290. I bought a ripping chain, but turns out it wasn't the correct size. Couple questions: why is it so difficult to find places that sell ripping chains? If my regular chain is a Stihl 26 RS 81 (20", 81, .325", .063" width) what size ripping chain should I get?

Ripping chain is a specialty cutter grind angle. Cross cut is 25 to 35 * angle while ripping is 10 to 0*. Skip chain has more space between cutters, making it more useful on longer bars than come on the powerhead in use. Using regular cross cut chain and sharpening closer to ripping chain angle can be done. Ripping chain is made that way since the cut is against the end grain of log and the lesser angle causes less side push in the cut and a shorter cutting edge. Correct size is usually on side of bar. My ms-460 came with 3/8 .063" drive sprocket and bar to match. On the drive sprocket is listed size also and drive openings on mine either 3/8 7 or 3/8 8 , sprockets are not picky as to width of drive links, bars are. Sprocket tipped bars are sensitive to drive link spacing bars are not. Matching it isn't too hard with a bit of practice even I sounded like I knew what I was speaking of.

 

[IyaMan]

why is it so difficult to find places that sell ripping chains?

I believe most saw manufacturers do not promote the idea of using a saw for milling as it puts a lot of stress on the saw. It may even void a warranty. If your saw is still under warranty you may not want to mention to your dealer that you are milling with it.