Just getting started (REALLY looking forward to it!!)

[Mad Professor]

Also, when it comes to prep for the logs, do I want to seal the logs before i cut them, or cut them and then seal the ends? Or once cut, I don't need to seal since it will all dry evenly now? Thanks,

Joe

Welcome to the milling forum.

Plan on sealing the ends of the logs as soon as you buck them up from the tree to prevent end checking. The best product is anchorseal made by UC Coatings. This is very important with Ash as it tends to end check more than most other wood. Slather up ends good with coating and apply a 2nd coat if needed. If you trim the boards after milling coat the ends of those too. If you can't find end sealer latex paint is better than nothing.

I'm a little confused from your first post. Is the powerhead you are using a 460 or 660? Either one can be fitted with a HD oil pump which will help when using a long bar, or consider an auxillary oiler or water drip system. Don't worry about those to start out. Get your setup dialed in and get some practice. Might want to start with some low quality logs and just make up some pieces for rustic benches and such for practice. I wouldn't start with a veneer quality log.

Learning how to get the best lumber out of a log is a long process that starts with felling the tree. Lots to learn about between there and a finished board/beam. Read as much as you can about each step. It will help to watch an experienced sawyer open up a log and see how he goes about slicing it up and then how the flitches are processed into boards or beams. Once cut up you need to stack/store/dry the lumber. Watching how this is done you will learn a lot too. Might be some people who run portable mills or a small circle mill on your area?

You will find other various equipment/tools are handy/needed and make things go along more easily depending on what you already have.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. Above all be careful and safe.

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Thanks so much for the information! I have out together the mill and now have a (what I think) pretty important question. Can the mill clamp on the outermost part of a rollomatic bar? (Picture included). Or do I need to move it back behind it?

 

[SeMoTony]

Thanks so much for the information! I have out together the mill and now have a (what I think) pretty important question. Can the mill clamp on the outermost part of a rollomatic bar? (Picture included). Or do I need to move it back behind it?

Picture the circle in the middle of the bar tip, clamp just toward outside the circle. Turn the roller if there is resistance move clamp a little further away from out board end, and reclamp retry. If it spins okay there is right spacing.

 

[Joe Scherschel]

I measured the gap I have to cut with my mill. With a 36" bar and mill I measured 28". Is that normal or should I get more out of it? Already removed the dogs.

Also, I did a lot of searching in forums but a lot of pictures are missing (too old). Could some of your please explain how to attach rails and level them? My FIL bought some T-Slot rails to put together but trying to find the best way to attach to log.

Thanks!


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[Joe Scherschel]

Example of what my FIL bought :

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Made my first cut!! (Finally!) it worked perfectly and looks awesome. Felt so good finally getting started...sadly chainsaw died on me after one cut...so fixing it tomorrow. Can't wait to start drying some boards!

 

[Garrit]

What happened to your saw? Every time I mill with my vintage saw it seems to be missing something or developed a new issue.

Price we pay buying used!

 

[Joe Scherschel]

The black plastic in the pull cord assembly basically shattered....

 

[Joe Scherschel]

The starter pawls. Got them replaced and now it starts. Finished the log. Looks great (though I made a mistake on one cut and it kind of messed up the rest..good thing it's just my first log, lol). Excited to do the next (after I sharpen my chain, hahaha).

 

[Joe Scherschel]

I'm starting to cut some of the bigger logs now. I am planning on making a table out of this log (pictured).

Couple questions that some of you vets might be able to assist with:

Does everyone sharpen their chains after every cut or 2? I seem to be getting pretty dull...or at least it seems to be a lot more difficult to pull the chain through the log the longer I go. Other than that, it is going alright.

Another questions, the Sapwood vs. Heartwood...can I make a table with the whole board? or is the sapwood just scrap?

 

[Garrit]

@BobL did the math on chain sharpness vs square foot milled.

Heat might play a part in your chain dulling issue. Do you have an oiler for the tip of your bar?

Yes use the whole slab to make the table!

 

[BobL]

Does everyone sharpen their chains after every cut or 2?

A rough guide is a 2-3 stroke touch up to the cutters after every tank of mix in hardwoods and maybe every 2nd/3rd tank in softer woods.
I swipe the rakers 2-3 strokes after every 3 - 4 cutter touch ups.

This is just a guide. Touching up should be done just to remove any glint on the cutter edge, that's a tiny reflection from the dulled edge. You need good lighting and good vision to see it.
My touch ups start at two strokes whether a cutter needs it or not and the keep swiping to remove any glint. If you use progressive raker setting the length of the cutters is far less critical.

Another questions, the Sapwood vs. Heartwood...can I make a table with the whole board? or is the sapwood just scrap?

It impossible to say until its dried. It may look good straight off the mill but during drying it may twist/cup. Flat storage with some decent weight on it will minimise problems

 

[Joe Scherschel]

Hey BobL, thanks for the response! When I get done w/ 1 cut, the blades have what looks like sap or something on them (brownish/tan stuff). When I sharpen them I get the nice shiny metal that it should be. It is just gets really hard after I get through 1/2 the log. I only have a 36" bar and am only cutting through maybe 25" log but I'll look into an Aux Oiler.

Anyone in Indiana wanna come show me what I'm doing wrong? haha (only half joking)

 

[rarefish383]

Joe, I'm using a 660 with 36" bar. No aux oiler. I do have my oil pump turned up all the way. Sometimes I keep a quart bottle of oil on my guide board and just pour some on the tip. But, I'm milling mostly Red Oak at 26 to 30 inches and 8' long, and don't use the extra oil for that. The first pass is a skinny pass knocking the cap off. Once I get into the wider wood I can usually get 3 or 4 passes without really feeling it slow down. I use Stihl 33 RS, so nothing special, and I sharpen to the factory profile. You should be getting much more than 1/2 a cut before it starts to slow up. Most of the logs I mill are with in a day or two of cutting them down. I've got some logs in my back yard that have been down for about a month, and they are covered with a layer of dust and dirt just from the wind and rain. Make sure your logs are clean. That thin layer of dust will knock the edge off quick, Joe B.

 

[BobL]

Hey BobL, thanks for the response! When I get done w/ 1 cut, the blades have what looks like sap or something on them (brownish/tan stuff). When I sharpen them I get the nice shiny metal that it should be. It is just gets really hard after I get through 1/2 the log. I only have a 36" bar and am only cutting through maybe 25" log but I'll look into an Aux Oiler.

 

[BobL]

An Aux oiler will help with the sap on the chain.
Post a close up fully side on picture of one of your cutters and I will see if can give you a diagnosis.

 

[Charlie Coyote]

I'll be buying the bar (it didn't come with the 36") separately. I found a Stihl bar and skip chain at our local shop. They want $84 for the bar and $39 for the chain. Does that sound reasonable? Or are they bending me over here?


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I went ahead with the Stihl bar and Oregon chain my dealer had. What do you mean by "if you take the teeth off"?


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Never mind taking teeth off. Frankenstein idea. Use the chain as it is and learn to file; an art in itself and very very necessary.

 

[blades]

If you are not using wedges to keep the cut open behind the saw, that could be some of the problem as to hard to push as the blade is getting pinched by the kerf closing up. Too get the maximum width from your 36" frame you need apx a 42" bar. Hence the 28" cut you are attaining at present. ( the mounting eats up about 6" of bar) An outboard oiler should be used, as a lot of oil gets flung off the tip leaving the cutting side a bit dry. you can burn a bar and over heat a chain real quick when milling. as a note: my rig 48" frame , 60" bar(.404) skip chain, Stilh 084 for power . Also have one of those little vertical clamps for ripping smaller logs, 3/8 chain dolmar 7900 power. bar length to suit size of log. Wedges - you can make you own from whatever odds and ends laying around. Outboard oiler- does not have to be oil, Pinesol or similar works in warm temps, Winshield washer fluid for cold weather. Put a good tarp down in the saw dust drop area- makes clean up a breeze.

 

[sean donato]

You guys realize the last post in this thread was from 2017?

 

[blades]

Guess I better get some new glasses.