Large bar and small saw

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Sit-tucker-sit

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Spokane, WA
Question for the experts-
I have a stihl ms310 that I use occasionally for campfire wood and cleaning up my 5 acres. "Normally" the saw does everything I ask, but I have one tree that went down that is too big for my 20 inch bar.
I had a huge cotton wood tree go down that's I little over 4 feet in diameter.
What's the largest bar I can successfully use on my 310 for this one tree?
I can justify buying a new bar and chain for this one tree, but can't justify a new saw.
I know I might need to baby it with a larger bar due to lack of torque/power/oiler capacity etc.
Saw currently wears a 20 inch bar, 3/8 skip tooth chain with a 7 tooth Oregon rim sprocket. Light muffler mod and carb adjustment has been done.
I hoping to use a 28 inch bar for this one tree. Too big???

Another question- does anyone make a 6 tooth sprocket that would fit this saw? my thought was I could gear it down to pull a longer bar. Dumb idea?
 
Since you don't want to invest in a larger saw,( the better option), Put a MS390 kit on your saw and run a 25" bar w/ skip chain.
 
What Rocketnorton said is exactly what I would do. I don't think a 6-tooth rim is available as it would likely be impossible to build a sprocket of that tooth count that would clear the spline. If you are concerned about power I would sharpen the chain and only put about .020 depth on the rakers of the cutters. This will make the chain cut smaller chips and will be less likely to stall in the cut.
 
Question for the experts-
I have a stihl ms310 that I use occasionally for campfire wood and cleaning up my 5 acres. "Normally" the saw does everything I ask, but I have one tree that went down that is too big for my 20 inch bar.
I had a huge cotton wood tree go down that's I little over 4 feet in diameter.
What's the largest bar I can successfully use on my 310 for this one tree?
I can justify buying a new bar and chain for this one tree, but can't justify a new saw.
I know I might need to baby it with a larger bar due to lack of torque/power/oiler capacity etc.
Saw currently wears a 20 inch bar, 3/8 skip tooth chain with a 7 tooth Oregon rim sprocket. Light muffler mod and carb adjustment has been done.
I hoping to use a 28 inch bar for this one tree. Too big???

Another question- does anyone make a 6 tooth sprocket that would fit this saw? my thought was I could gear it down to pull a longer bar. Dumb idea?
You can fall a tree up to 3 X the bar length which would be 60", you only need 48" which is just over 2 X the bar length, a little more work but easily doable.
Tanks
 
Thanks for all the good tips.
I think I'll keep my eyes open for a used large bar and give it a try.
I was hoping someone made a 6 tooth rim sprocket to gear it down. I now see why they don't as it would be too thin on a rim sprocket. Only way it would work would be a spur sprocket, but there's probably not much demand for someone to make one of those.
Thanks again for the advise.
 
0.84


had one of these I went through a 36 inch red oak one winter long since dead and dried final fell over, then I cut it up. If you don't get into a hurry it should work with what you got just fine. there will be some creative cutting though. I finally got to where this saw was a to much work for its out put. so I had to throw it away it never did die even though it was underwater for an indetermined length of time, I could go on and on.....
 
I'll leave the economics of buying bar/chain vs. borrowing a saw up to you...

But a 4 horsepower saw and 28" bar with sharp chain will cut a single 48" cottonwood just fine.

It's cottonwood, people... a buried 28" of green (or dead and therefore likely somewhat rotten) cottonwood is probably about like cutting 12" of dry oak.
 
It will work in a pinch...if it was an oak or hard maple I would discourage that idea but in cottonwood a 28" will work with a light hand and patience.

Just give it time, someone will be along to suggest an 090 with a 7' bar...
 
As suggested above I would stick with the 20 and spend a little more time on technique. It won't be fast or easy but when you are done it will be very satisfying.
 
As suggested above I would stick with the 20 and spend a little more time on technique. It won't be fast or easy but when you are done it will be very satisfying.

I'm unfamiliar with the technique for bucking up 48" rounds with a 20" bar that takes just a little more time and is satisfying.

But I genuinely would like to learn.
 
I'm unfamiliar with the technique for bucking up 48" rounds with a 20" bar that takes just a little more time and is satisfying.

But I genuinely would like to learn.

I helped an older gentleman buck up two oaks that were both just over 40" with an 028 super and a 16" bar. He used wood as primary heat so the trees had to be processed. The cuts were made so the blocks weren't over 16" apart. The blocks were then noodled out of the larger trunks. It was time consuming but each cut made a dent.
 
I helped an older gentleman buck up two oaks that were both just over 40" with an 028 super and a 16" bar. He used wood as primary heat so the trees had to be processed. The cuts were made so the blocks weren't over 16" apart. The blocks were then noodled out of the larger trunks. It was time consuming but each cut made a dent.

Yikes--- that sounds miserable. I've used mill scraps for firewood, but I've never milled firewood.
 
Noodling's great fun. I introduced the missus to it on a yoooooge windsnap over the weekend, now I'm relegated to cartage duties, because I can't pry the 039 out of her hands.
 
0.84


had one of these I went through a 36 inch red oak one winter long since dead and dried final fell over, then I cut it up. If you don't get into a hurry it should work with what you got just fine. there will be some creative cutting though. I finally got to where this saw was a to much work for its out put. so I had to throw it away it never did die even though it was underwater for an indetermined length of time, I could go on and on.....

You had way too much time on your hands.
 
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